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IF YOU HAVE A 4G64/G OR /L, THE SPARK PLUGS ARE CONTAINED UNDER THE VALVE COVER. YOU WILL SEE THE PLUG WIRES TERMINATING WITH A LARGE(1" TOP & 1-5/8" BOTTOM) ROUND CONNECTOR "TUBE". THIS DEVICE IS SOMETIMES VERY DIFFICULT TO REMOVE. THE BEST METHOD IS TO REMOVE THE PROPER WIRE FROM THE WIRE LOOMS (FOR WIRE SLACK) AND FIRMLY GRASP THE UPPER PORTION OF THE TUBE "NOB" AND WORK BACK-FORTH WHILE PULLING UPWARD. A "PRYING" DEVICE MAY BE USED IF EXTREME CARE IS TAKEN NOT TO DAMAGE THE RUBBER "NOB". ONCE LOOSE, PULL THE TUBE UPWARD AND OUT OF THE OPENING. IT MAY REQUIRE SOME "WORKING" TO GET THE TUBE COMPLETELY OUT, IF THE PLUG WIRES ARE SOMEWHAT SHORT-REMOVING THE WIRE @ THE DIST. WILL FACILITATE THE EASE OF REMOVAL.
YOU WILL NEED AN EXTENSION AT LEAST 6" LONG WITH A "LOCKING" MECHANISM TO HOLD THE SPECIAL "SPARKPLUG" SOCKET (5/8" DEEP). THE SPECIAL S-P SOCKET WILL HAVE A RUBBER INNER CORE TO GRASP THE PLUG TO PREVENT IT FROM FALLING FROM THE SOCKET-IF YOU LOSE A PLUG INSIDE, YOU WILL BE FORCED TO REMOVE THE VALVE COVER!!
ONE HINT HERE: YOU DON'T NEED TO "BUY" A SPECIAL 5/8" S-P SOCKET. WHAT I DID WAS
TO REMOVE THE SHORTER WIRE FROM THE DIST., LOOSEN THE PLUG TUBE, LOOSEN THE PLUGS CAREFULLY, PULL OUT THE SOCKET, INSERT THE TUBE ONTO THE LOOSENED PLUG AND SLOWLY/CAREFULLY REMOVE THE PLUG. INSERTING THE NEW PLUG INTO THE TUBE AND CAREFULLY INSERTING IT INTO THE OPENING AND TURNING TH TUBE UNTIL IT TIGHTENS (PULLING UPWARD EASILY WILL SHOW IF THE PLUG HAS STARTED THREADING). I HAVE USED THIS METHOD TWICE WITH GREAT RESULTS.
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