The wavelength decreases
Swell "feels" bottom (half the wavelength), circular water particles change to flattened eclipses. Wavelength slows down, but period remains the same, wave becomes too high for its wavelength. Crest moves ahead of the base b/c of a 3:4 ratio of wave height to water depth and breaks.
Swell "feels" bottom (half the wavelength), circular water particles change to flattened eclipses. Wavelength slows down, but period remains the same, wave becomes too high for its wavelength. Crest moves ahead of the base b/c of a 3:4 ratio of wave height to water depth and breaks.
As waves approach the shore, interaction with the sea floor slows the waves down and the crests of the waves bunch up. They increase in height as the energy in each wave compresses into a shorter horizontal distance, but the period of the wave does not change. Eventually, the waves break.
Swell "feels" bottom (half the wavelength), circular water particles change to flattened eclipses. Wavelength slows down, but period remains the same, wave becomes too high for its wavelength. Crest moves ahead of the base b/c of a 3:4 ratio of wave height to water depth and breaks.
The distance between crests decreases
The height increases
Waves even out a shoreline by eroding it.The waves coming to shore gradually change direction, as different parts of the wave begins to drag the bottom.The energy of the wave is concentrated on headlands, part of the shore that sticks out into the ocean.As waves erode the headlands the shoreline will eventually even out.Tee Hee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ___------ -/---- ----\/--- --- \------------ ---- --
Angled waves create a current that runs parallel to the coatline. As waves repeatedly hit the beach, some of the beach sediment moves down the beach with the current.
Waves are energy carried by the water, and this energy pounds away at rocks on the shore, eventually wearing them down. Sediment is carried back into the water by the receding waves. As the waves come to shore again, the sediment acts like sandpaper, slowly wearing away at the shoreline.
a.the height of the ocean b. the change in the oceans land forms c.the direction and speed of the oceans currents or d.the velocity of the waves hitting the shore
It is a process known as shoaling. When waves feel the bottom they slow down and decrease their wavelength but the period of the waves does not change. The height of the wave will steadily increase until the wave becomes unstable and breaks near the beach.
No
they get shorter
it keeps on slowing down and hitsthe shore.
no
the water becoming gradually more shallow..
nearly parallel to the shoreline
nearly parallel to the shoreline
Waves constantly change the look of the shore, but you can stop the waves from moving the sand by creating a rock wall, however this will effect the shore furthur up
The waves begin to interact with the ocean floor. The same mass of water runs into shallower and shallower water making the height of the wave increase.
The waves pounding against the shoreline. The waves colliding with the shore. The waves breaking upon the beach.
Waves hit the shore many times per minute, but it varies so greatly. The wind changing can result in a change of this number. Any storms out in the ocean can change it as well.
Waves even out a shoreline by eroding it.The waves coming to shore gradually change direction, as different parts of the wave begins to drag the bottom.The energy of the wave is concentrated on headlands, part of the shore that sticks out into the ocean.As waves erode the headlands the shoreline will eventually even out.Tee Hee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ___------ -/---- ----\/--- --- \------------ ---- --