How do you Replace wheel bearings on 2001 Chevy prism?
With the correct tools
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Ok, this is very simple. First, you will need some special tools for this. very inexpensive, a bearing puller, and a wheel seal puller. And replacement parts including a differential cover gasket for 7.5" ring gear (10 bolt), and the new outer wheel bearings and wheel seals. Then jack up the rear en…d of the vehicle using jackstands on both sides of the axle. Remove the rear wheels, then the calipers and rotors or just the drums, depending on what you have. Then get a small drainpan and place it under the differential cover, and remove the ten bolts on it. At this point you should have drained about a quart and a half of gear oil. Now this is the tricky part, you have to put the truck in neutral, and turn the differential until you see a small horizontal bolt on the passenger's side of the spider gear housing. It will be an 8mm socket size bolt. Remove it and the retaining rod should practically fall right out. (Big 4" rod between the four spider gears) Now it's smooth sailing from here. Push in the axle hubs where the lug nut go and remove the C-clips inside of the spider gears, but be careful not to knock the spiders out of place while doing this. After the C-clips have been removed, slide the axle shafts out of the axle housing. Now using the seal puller, remove thewheel seals, or just use a thick screwdriver. Now with the bearing puller pull the bearings out and install the new ones using a block of wood and light taps with a hammer. Finally install the new seals with a rubber mallet and reverse procedure. Be sure to fully scrape the old gasket off the diff cover before installing the new one, use a little RTV sealant to hold the new gasket in place while installing it. Good Luck! ( Full Answer )
you cannot replace the wheel bearings by themselves in a 4x4. they designed the hubs to have wheel bearings inside them. you must replace the whole hub assembly to get new wheel bearings. should run from 50-100 dollars a piece from a parts store, and about twice that at a dealer. You need a 36mm …socket and a breaker bar . Take the spline nut off the end of the cv shaft. I suggest doing this with the wheel still on the ground. Then jack the truck up. Remove the caliper and rotor, take out the three bolts holding in the hub. Be careful around the abs sensor. They are expensive. Installation is the reverse of removal. Torqe the spline nut to approx 180 ft.lbs. ( Full Answer )
First make a sketch of how the belt is routed over and under the pulleys.. As you face the engine from the passenger side of the vehicle, look toward the firewall side of the engine for a pulley mounted on an "arm". This is the tensioner for the belt. On this arm is a 3/4" nut welded to it. Turn it… clockwise toward the front of the car and the arm & pulley should swing enough for the belt to be pulled off.. Replacing the belt is tricky because the new belt will be stiff and have bends set into a weird shape. It is best done with two people. One should be under the car and one on top. I did it with my wife. I was underneath.. Start at the front of the car and work toward the rear leaving the tensioner for last. I made the final loop over the tensioner from underneath while my wife relieved the tensioner. You could do it from on top if they are skilled enough to un-tension the arm and position the belt. Both will have to hold the belt from slipping off as the belt as it is rerouted.. Make some small golf club shaped or hooked tools to push / pull the belt over and under pulleys, it will help.. If you are doing this job yourself, it is a little easier to save the alternator for last. . Working from the front of the car you can pull on the tensioner (I used a 3/4" socket on a breaker bar) forward with one hand, while slipping the belt over the alternator pulley at the same time. Tricky, but it works! ( Full Answer )
If you have 4wd the bearing is pressed onto to hub and can't be change. The unit is sold as a whole as a bearing hub. The cheapest I have found it was $171 at autozone. same is true for the 1500 2wd, only AutoZone doesn't have it listed! I had to get mine from the dealer. However, the dealer gave m…e a 8-lug hub instead of a 5-lug, but it had the same bearing. ( Full Answer )
remove brake drum or caliper, remove caliper mounting bracket if nessesary. unplug electical connecter from wheel sensor on the back side of knuckle. remove 4 hub to knuckle bolts, remove the hub and bearing assembly!!
Answer . \nReplacing wheel bearings, while not what I would consider a "major" job, is one that\nneeds to be done correctly. If you really want to do it yourself, pick up a Haynes or Chilton\nmanual at your local auto parts store.
Remove axles and wheel with leverage bar. Remove caliber assembly.After removing the entire front mechanisms. Replace them with new,and reassemble tires.
I know in my 1995 Accord my mechanic had to heat up the old bearing after removing 3 screws and then use a bearing puller to finally remove. The new ones then have to be pressed. I hope this helps tip: Timpkin Bearings are very good and most reasonably priced--I got both for less than $75
Remove the tire and wheel from your 1997 Chevy Astro. Remove theaxle end. Remove the wheel bearing nut. Remove the wheel bearingand the wheel seal. Reverse the process to install the new frontwheel bearing.
The bearings on a rear wheel drive (2WD) are Timken Tappers. You can pull the old bearings by removing the bearing cap on the roater/hub. Then you take the cotter pin out of the castle nut. back off the castle nut and then you have a retaining washer, then the outter tapper bearing. the whole hub sl…ides off. then you can pull the inner bearing through the center by tipping it 180 degrees in the relative to the axis (axel)...there is a seal on the inboard side. You can then buy a new seal, and set of bearings. The cage and rollers are one piece. The outer race is the hub itself (both sides are treated) and the inner race is the shaft. You will need something soft like a block of nylon or wood that is larger than the seal to TAP it in after the bearing is put in. Don't forget wheel grease. Replace the hub assembly in the reverse fashion. Call a dealership for the recommended tightening on the nut. Old school is finger tighten while rotating the hub/wheel and then back off a quarter turn. IF the bearing is too tight... you will burn up everything and will be buying a new corner. IF the bearing is too loose, you will prematurely wear the races due to missalignment and will have noise and vibration which becomes worse at higher speeds. I am on here to veryfiy the correct torque myself - I worked for the bearing industry for 15 years and worked for Timken as well. As for the Four wheel drive bearings (4WD), I am not sure if they are tapper or ball. IF they are tapper (rollers are conical shaped and have a flat end - you would see a ball if it is the other), then the process is the same as above. However, a lot of wheel bearing are going to double row balls (Tappers - above - are two single sets - so both styles have TWO bearings). Its just that Double row ball bearings can be a unitized set. In other words, the outer race is one piece with two race paths. The inner races are two separate peices. Due to the construction, the whole assembly stays together. There is a gap between the two races. When you tighten up the castle nut, it forces the two together. By them comming together - forced together - mated - that creates the correct internal clearance (factory set/matched for every set made). Again you would torque the nut and also rotate the wheel to seat the bearings. To remove these bearings from the hub, they are press fit. You would need to have a press and a tube that is the same size as the OUTTER race or OD of the bearing. of course you would have to support the assembly on the back side with two blocks of material that are sturdy and are the same height so that everything is square. you can then press the bearing out. Reverse the process to install the new bearing - these are pregreassed. DO NOT ANGLE the bearing or seals when installing or you will get them stuck or ruin the assembly. ( Full Answer )
Did you ever get anywhere on this thread? I'm looking to replace the front bearings and rotors on my 2000 ZR2.
You have to begin by taking the five lug nuts off the wheel and taking the wheel off. Next, take the brake caliper and caliper bracket off (4 bolts total). Then, you need about a 36mm impact socket to get the axle nut off in the center and there are only three bolts holder the hub assembly on which …come out from the rear of the hub when you are facing it. After that, just pull it off and put the new one on and reverse the order of parts when putting back together. ( Full Answer )
Answer . Probably will have to replace entire hub assembly. Remove wheel. Remove brake drum or caliper and rotor if disc brakes. Remove brake line. Remove 4 bolts that hold hub assembly in place. Carefully remove ABS sensor wire harness if so equipped. Hub assembly may have to be separate…d from backing plate by supporting backing plate and beating the hub out with a hammer. Use New hardened bolts for re-assembly Torque to 65 ft. lbs. ( Full Answer )
Answer . Focus is a front wheel drive vehicle. The wheel bearings are of the sealed variety. It's pressed into the hub. Take it to a machine shop to R and R.
Replacing the front wheel bearing is a fairly simple process. First you must support your aztek with a jack. (Try to use one other than the spare tire jack if at all possible). Remove the lugs and tire and set aside. Next you need to remove the two brake caliper bolts on the inside of the assembly. …Next pull the brake caliper off of the rotor, the brake line is short so the caliper should be supported with other means such as a chain or cinder block, anything so the caliper doesn't hang on the brake line. Next pull the rotor off of the hub bearing assembly. Next take off the axle nut, I believe it is a 33 mm. Next remove the three hub assembly bolts on the inside of the assembly, the one closest to the rear of the vehicle will need to have the harness holder removed from it first. Once those are off your all set. Push the axle in and pull the rotor off, make sure your careful with the speed sensor harness connector though as its very fragile and held on by only 2 thin wires. After that just reverse the process. ( Full Answer )
Remove the tire and wheel from your 2001 Chevy Impala. Remove theend of the axle. Remove the wheel bearing nut. Remove the wheelbearing seal and the wheel bearing. Reverse the process to installthe new front wheel bearing.
The procedure for replacing the bearings on a Chevy Venture is quite straightforward. Remove the inner drive seal protector first, then secure the rotor by placing a punch into the rotor vents and the brake caliper, and remove the hub nut and washer. After removing the brake caliper, a removal tool …will be required to pull the hub free. Ample grease must be used on the hub, seals and the new bearings, and use 38 foot-pounds of torque to tighten the brake caliper, and 185 foot-pounds on the hub nut. ( Full Answer )
4wd Chevy truck - front wheel bearings . The front wheel bearings the new style (1999 to 2008) Chevy 4wd trucks come as an assembly only - the bearings themselves cannot be replaced - assembly includes the complete hub, stud bolts, ABS sensor/pickup... Basically fool proof, but expensive - $425 a…s of 9/1/2007.... Good news is, it is easy and quick to install - remove the wheel, unplug ABS wiring, remove the four bolts holding the hub/bearing assembly on - the assembly has splines and simply slides off.(may need a little coaxing to get it broke loose). Assemble in reverse - complete job only takes 30 minutes to an hour, depending on experience level, and tools available... Good Luck... ( Full Answer )
I think the fronts are pressed in and the rears are a hub assembly. So the fronts would be a decent wage, being they have to be pressed in and out. The rears are simple in installation, but the price of the hub could be a hundred dollar bill apiece.
You most likely will need a bearing puller tool which you can ge at your local auto parts store. Some have loaners which you put a deposit down, and get your money back when you return the tool.
Fronts are a hub assy, just bolted in on the 4 wheel drive models. Remove the wheel, brake assy, caliper/bracket and axle nut, then the hub assy can be removed/unbolted. It may need chiseling or an air chisel to get it out. Not bad if you have the tools.
You will need to remove the tire and wheel. Remove the axle endcap. Remove the wheel bearing seal. Remove the wheel bearing.Reverse the process to install the new will bearing.
This is a very hard job without the proper equipment. Not recommended for the novice. It will also depend which bearings you are asking about, front or back. Both equally hard to do.
Tire fall off, not likely. It just may seize the spindle and lock it up (and cause you to not be able to steer, or move the vehicle).
ON 4 WHEEL DRIVE MODELS, RAISE AND SUPPORT VEHICLE ON JACK STANDS (HOIST WORKS VERY NICELY) REMOVE WHEEL, BRAKE CALIPERS , CALIPER BRAKET. DROPPING THE LWR CONTROL MAKES IT A LOT EASIER, YOU DON'T HAVE TO TAKE TIE ROD OFF, (BUT YOU MAY)LOOSEN CENTER NUT FROM HALF SHAFT, WITH A DEAD BLOW HAMMER CAREF…ULLY SMACK THE SHAFT TO FREE IT FROM THE HUB BEARING,THER ARE THREE 13 OR 15 MILLIMETER BOLTS BEHIND THE HUB BEARING, REMOVE THEM AND OUT COMES THE HUB BEARING (CAREFUL WITH THE WIRING FOR ABS, UNCONNECT IT FIRST) DROOPING TNE LOWER CONTROL ARM CUTS YOUR TIME ALMOST IN HALF. TOTAL TIME FOR EACH SIDE SHOULD BE ABOUT 1 TO 1.5 HRS. WITH PROPER TOOLS. GOOD LUCK. ( Full Answer )
well, there not really wheel bearings, there axle bearings. things you will need are a slide hammer, drain pan, socket wrench and matching sockets, lots of rags, time, paitence, and the new parts. first, jack the rear of the car up and support it well. remove the diff cover and let fluid drain int…o drain pan. then remove both rear wheels and brake drums. if rear disk, remove caliper, caliper bracket, and rotor. go back to the opened up rear diff and look fot the 5/16 bolt(8mm) that holds the shaft that runs through the center of the gear set. slide that large shaft out carefully. then, push the axle shaft from the outside of the vehicke to the inside, remove clip at end of shaft and carefully slide out. do same thing for both shafts. the hole the shafts slid out of have a oil seal in front of the bearing. pop out the seal, grab your slide hammer and attach it to the bearing and remove. install new bearing with suitable tool and dead blow hammer, same with oil seal. slide axles carefully into there place and put clips back in. install shaft and hold bolt back into center section. reinstall diff cover and brakes. dont forget to fill the diff with fresh clean fluid. drive around a lil bit and recheck the fluid level. dirty-est, messy-est, 2 ish hours yous ever spend. ( Full Answer )
A wheel bearing is pressed in to the hub so that it is able tosafely operate. To replace a bearing on a Chevy Impala remove thehub from the car and take the unit to a machinist. Have the pressout the old bearing and press in the new one.
Replacing a wheel bearing in your Chevrolet blazer will costapproximately $175 per bearing. You can save $125 by doing the workyourself.
remove front wheel,. remove complete brake assembly (2 15 mm bolts). remove brake disk,. remove old wheel bearing bolts, 3 13mm bolts from rear side, disconnect antilock brake wire,. remove center axle nut, 33mm, tap end of axle to loosen axle from bearing,. remove bearing.. install new bearin…g with center axle nut torque 120 lb,. 13 mm bolts with 85 lb torque,. install brake disk and wheel. ( Full Answer )
should be the same as most Chevy rear ends. Opwn the differential. push the axles in. remove the retainers. and the axle comes out. Providing wheel, brake and caliper or drum removal as well.
If you buy the wheel hub and bearing in one assembly its real simple to change it. . Remove wheel . Remove brake caliper, brakes and brake mounts . Remove drive axle nut (may need to get a new cotter pin if there is one already there) . Unbolt the balljoints, 2 bolts located at the bottom that… connect the control and steering arms to the wheel. . Use a balljoint separator (basically a wedge) to pop loose the balljoint and arms. . Pull the wheel out of the driveaxle, now the wheel can be angled so you can access the hub bolts. . Break those loose, then remove the hub and rotor . there are a couple of ways of separating the rotor and rotor: use two bolts (M8*1.25, I think) and screw into the two small holes located near the center, it should pop the hub loose. That didn't work for me, so I just sat the rotor between two bricks and used a soft mallet to bang out the center. . Reverse the steps and that's it. ( Full Answer )
Remove tire, remove brake drum, remove brake assembly housing, remove 4 bolts from back of hub assembly, gently tap to remove hub/bearing assembly.
the bearing assy comes as a complete package with the hub and ABS sensor, etc. --- 3 bolts connecting it to the knuckle (front) or arm (rear)
hey, im going to be replacing a wheel bearing on a 2001 sentra. I'm doing it at home, and I was just wondering if I would be able to. Because I know that some bearings are pressed in with either a press or using a C-clap. so if anyone could help me out, it would really help me out.. Thanks
Yes thay are. drive it out with a big hammer, Install new stud and screew a lug nut on it and tighten nut and it will pull it back in place. Will have to remove wheel and rotor first.
If all goes well the job should take about an hour with proper tools and equipment. Keep in mind that if the hub/bearing assembly is rusted in, it could take longer.
It cost me about $100.00 for the part and about an 1-1/2 of my time.
No experience to do that. A mechanic man will do very good job for your Kia
To replace the front bearing,jack up front and remove the wheel.Remove the brake caliber assembly and pads.The brake caliber guide ,held in place by 2 bolts that is bolted to the hub assembly has to be removed in order to remove the rotor.Remove the 3 bolts which hold the wheel bearing to the hub as…sembly,from the backside.Remove the 35mm axle nut using an inpact drill or strong arm.Tap the axle out of the assembly and the bearing assembly should come out from the front. ( Full Answer )
have to change entire hub assembly. Remove brake line. Remove emergency brake cable. remove 4 bolts that hold assembly (use new hardened bolts on replacement assembly, torque to 65 ft. lbs.). carefully unplug Abs sensor harness. separate backing plate assembly from hub (may have to support back…ing plate and hit with hammer to separate). reverse procedure to install ( Full Answer )
Front wheel drive vehicles are a little more involved than changing them on a rear wheel vehicle. You basically have to take off the whole steering knuckle. You also need to press out the bearing from the hub and remove the race from the spindle with an air tool cutting wheel. The hub is held on by… several bolts on the back near where the axle goes into the hub. ( Full Answer )
This is a lengthy repair to write up. I would recommend just purchasing a repair Manuel. You may also find it at autozones web site under the repair section.
Rear wheel bearing replacement on a Subaru is not a do-it-your-selfer job unless you are advanced and have equipment like a hydraulic press to take the wheel bearings out and put the new ones in. That said, I did my own but took the spindles out to a professional for the bearing change who promptly …ruined them since he was not familiar with Subaru. Since you asked in this forum, you should probably take it to a professional. Next best is to go get the Haynes, or similar, shop manual at your auto parts store and look over the procedure to see if it is within your skill and equipment level. Added note (11/09/2009): I don't know for sure about the Haynes manual, but the Chilton is not at all helpful. It basically just says that forester owners should take the car to a shop. The online repair guides on autozone are somewhat helpful, but still aren't very clear. I plan to change my own bearings, and will report back to this answer when I have done it. I understand that the job costs anywhere from 400 to 600 dollars so I personally won't be going to a shop. I understand that basically a hydraulic press will be needed and some type of pulling/pushing tool to get the hub out of the knuckle. You sound determined. Try this: www.endwrench.com/current/Current6/03/WhBearRep.pdf Best of luck to you. Apparently it is no longer recommended to use a hydraulic press. The hub is easily distorted. I made my own tool using 5/8 ready rod. ( Full Answer )
yes.. To my knowledge the rear wheel bearings are lubricated with the differential gear lube as you drive.
Remove the large axle nut and loosen the wheel lug nuts. Raise front of vehicle and support safely. remove wheel, remove brake caliper and brake pads, remove caliper bracket, remove brake rotor, disconnect abs wiring, remove the three 15mm bolts that hold the hub in place and remove the hub assembly…, probably with the help of a hammer. Reverse procedure for assembly. ( Full Answer )
Depending an where you live and which shop you have do the work about $300.00
Under $20 per wheel if you do it yourself, its not very hard and takes about 10 minutes a wheel. If you get it done at a shop; much more expensive, exact cost will be location dependent.
The wheel bearings in the vans are "integrated" as part of the hub assembly. This is because of the wheel speed sensor, which are part of the Anti-lock Breaking System (ABS). In order to replace the bearings, you have to replace the entire hub assembly. These are not cheap, as a result of the includ…ed sensors. Sorry about that. Good Luck, Greg A. ( Full Answer )
The wheel bearings are not really replaceable by themselves. This is because they are integrated into the hub assembly. So the answer is that you will have to replace the entire hub assembly to replace the bearings.
Gonna need to know if it is 2 wheel drive or 4 wheel drive, makes a difference.