WD40
im sure this is on the clutch pedal itself.
First, you try bleeding the clutch. You open up the valve, have a friend pump on the clutch pedal, and tighten it back up when the clutch pedal is depressed. Repeat until the clutch feels normal. If this doesn't take care of it, there is no fixing the clutch - the clutch disc and pressure plate will have to be replaced.
It is under the battery tray on the bellhousing for the tranny.
with modifications and a mounting kit, and a way to convert cable clutch pedal to operate the hydraulic clutch transmissionhasport.com
i belive the clutch adjusts automatically as its hydrolic not cable operated The clutch itself adjusts automatically, yes. However, you can adjust the pedal if your clutch is not engaging at the correct point as you press and release the pedal. Simply sit upside down in the seat (this is not as awkward as it sounds) and look at the rod that goes through the firewall connected to the clutch pedal. It will have a little nut on it that you can adjust with a wrench. That nut can work itself lose and make you feel like you have a failing clutch when really it's just the pedal.
I'm not a mechanic / technician but I know on newer Ford Mustang models ( maybe yours is the same ) Without the engine running put your transmission in 1st gear Put your foot under the clutch pedal and GENTLY pull it up until it stops SLOWLY push the clutch pedal down all the way If your clutch needed adjusting you should hear a click noise
The clutch cable which runs from the top of the firewall on the drivers side loops around in front and below the engine to a bracket on the passenger side of transmission. there is an adjustment nut there.
if you look under the dash at your brake pedal if automatic trans,and if its standard look at the clutch pedal and look for the switch,this is not a hard job to do but it will take patience.
Open bleeder on the clutch slave cylinder and bleed the system. Follow the line from the clutch master cylinder reservoir to the slave cylinder. There you will find the bleeder valve on the slav cylinder. Follow this procedure to properly bleed the hydraulic clutch which is similar to bleeding brakes. 1) Top off the clutch master cylinder reservoir. 2) Put a clear plastic tube on the bleeder nipple and submerge the end of the tube in a jar with some clutch hydraulic fluid. 3) Slowly depress the clutch pedal. 4) SLIGHTLY loosen the bleeder nipple. 5) While fluid is traveling through the tube, tighten the bleeder BEFORE the pedal is fully depressed. 6) Release pedal. Repeat procedure until you are certain: A) No bubbles appear in the fluid stream. B) The bleeder was opened after the clutch pedal started depressing and was closed before the pedal reached the bottom. C) The master cylinder reservoir never uncovered the ports in the bottom. Make sure the slave cylinder is tightly fastened to the transmission case and does not move when the clutch pedal is depressed. Look for threaded adjustment rods in the slave cylinder and clutch pedal linkages that can be used to insure the clutch is fully released BEFORE the clutch pedal is fully depressed.
The clutch IS supposed to go to the floor. Do you mean why doesn't it release the transmission from the engine. It probably needs to have air bled from the master cylinder and the slave cylinder.
It is one of the three relays under the dashboard, adjacent to the brake or clutch pedal. That is where it is located on the 1994 Aspire.
The clutch cylinder on a 1994 Acura Integra is bled by placing a tubing on the slave cylinder bleeder valve and placing the other end underneath brake fluid. Pump the clutch pedal several times and hold it down. Release the bleeder valve. Keep doing this process until bubbles no longer exit.