How do you fix the gauges on a 1993 Plymouth Voyager?

Answer 1

The question is vague but if it means

Why is my "Check Gages" light on and my temperature gauge, speedometer and fuel gauge not working at all, nor does the instrument panel light? The door locks may not be working either. Or the Check Gages light, the gauges, instrument panel light, and door locks go on and off intermittently or act erratically? Other strange gremlin-like behavior with electronic systems (AC?) may occur as well. The other idiot lights are working fine, there is plenty of oil and the alternator is ok. Cause The Body Control Module (BCM) has crashed. This is more or less a computer that controls the instrument panel, door locks and other body electronic systems. Solution Reboot the BCM by disconnecting the battery (negative terminal recommended for safety). Background When I turned on my 1992 Plymouth Grand Voyager, the Check Gages light stayed on and the temperature gauge, speedometer and fuel gauge were dead. The light that illuminates these gauges was dead too. After researching various blogs I found that strange electric door lock behavior was associated with the gauge problem. I checked my door locks and sure enough, weird behavior - in my case they would unlock but not lock (no response or sound when pushing the lock switch down for locking). Carrying on with my search I came to this web page that actually had an answer (thank-you!) http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic427728.htm It described the gauge problem and the solution to disconnect the IOD fuse, which appears to act as a sort of master switch (actually it's there to be removed for long term storage to prevent battery drain). Two users reported removing the IOD fuse fixed their problems. It was described as located under the hood near the battery, but when I went to look for it I couldn't find a fuse labeled IOD. So did what I always do when a computer or other microchip-controlled device acts up - unplug it for couple of minutes. On a car that means disconnecting the battery. Disconnecting the negative terminal is preferred since there is no chance of welding a wrench between the positive post and the fender. It worked like a charm.