Remove the 4 nuts that hold down the U-Joints to the differential. Remove the 2 bolts that hold the center drive shaft carrier bearing to the frame. Put a pan or some kind of container under the tail of the transmission to catch any of the oil that drips. Then pull the drive shaft out of the transmission. If you decide to replace the u-joints, I strongly recommend that you take the drive shaft to a reputable u-joint specialist and have all 3 u-joints replaced and the carrier bearing all replaced and have the drive shaft balanced. Then put it all back together in reverse order. When removing the u-joints, make sure the transmission is in neutral and the parking brake is set and/or the wheels are blocked.
very carefully!
Top of the transmission tail shaft housing.
remove the distributer, remove the roll pin holding the drive gear onto the distributer shaft, remove the distributer drive gear, remove the shaft from the distributer to gain access to and remove the stator(pick-up coil). Replace the stator, and reassemble everything.
It's usually much more inexpensive to replace the entire drive shaft than to repair a worn cv joint. The new drive shaft will come with new cv joints and new boots.
41.5 inches
Don't really think so, the 306 has one short and one long drive shaft with an intermediate bearing carrier. You could try a dirct comparison side by side.
On Drive side It's On the bellhousing
Checkers auto parts...
A 1995 suburban doesn't have a carburetor. A 1995 suburban doesn't have a carburetor.
iF IT'S A 2-WHEEL DRIVE THEN IT IS ON THE TRANSMISSION TAIL SHAFT HOUSING. IF IT'S A 4-WHEEL DRIVE THEN IT IS ON THE TRANSFUR CASE TAIL SHAFT HOUSING.
you can, but it will require you to replace the output shaft on the '95 trans. with your old '90 model, as there is a worm gear built onto the old style output shaft to drive the speedometer cable. To replace the output shaft, you have to nearly completely teardown the transmission.
It is a 5.3 liter 1995 chevy suburban