How do you replace ignition switch 1998 Chevy Malibu?

Answer 1

To remove the Malibu ignition switch you must:

1> pry off the black face plate around the ke with a screwdriver, next the face plate that surrounds the radio, heater and key spot - take a wide blade chisel and pry from the right hand side... it comes off actually quite easily.

2> remove the radio, pry off the upper half off the cover that goes on the steering column, remove the two Phillips screws on the dash/front bezel above the gauges, then pry off the dash bezel which runs from on side to the other of the car - it has the emergency switch and vents - it comes off in one piece, but you will have to disconnect the wire leads from the emergency flasher switch and the dimmer switch.

3> Remove the two 10 mm screws that hold the switch in. There are 3 sets of wires and an interlock cable from your transmission shifter that connect to the switch. Removing the 4 scres that hold the dash/gauges in can help a little bit and give you more access if you tilt the Left side of the gauge cluster to the back of the car and the RH side of the cluster to the front.

4> If your key still turns - some of the lock cylinders go bad and cause grief, you are luckier than I was. Grasp the entire lock switch assembly and rotate it Counter closkwise to see the bottom of the switch. IF your key works, rotate the key and push in the square metal pin on wwhat was the rH side of the plastic swicth case - the pin is about 1/4 inch square and about 1 inch from the front face if the switch. If your key turns, you should be able to pull the lock cylinder out and replace it with a new one. Mine cost $236 at a local parts store and came with a couple of new keys that look the same as the original Chevy ones. The two sets of wires on the back come off if you push in the retainer. The trans shifter interlock carried in a bowden cable casing (like a bike hand brake casing) will only come out if you key is off the lock position. The small 3 wire connector only can be removed if the lock cyliner comes out. The lock cylinder can now be replaced, but you will need to turn the key first and depress the square metal pin and slide the cylinder into the black plastic housing. It should not be necessary to remove the wires or trans interlock cable if you can still turn the key. Reassemble in the opposite order as was removed.

5> If your key will not turn, you will need to carefully separate the two halves of the switch (black plastic front versus white plastice rear half). I used a screwdriver to pry the retainers, but it was -20 out so these broke, but the electrical switch was done anyways because there is NO WAY to remove it if the key will not turn. IF you buy a new switch and lock cylinder portion and take a careful look, you will understand why the parts will not come apart unless you can turn the key. Once the switch was separated the trans interlock came out easily. The only difficult part is removing the 3-wire lead. I ended up carefully using a dremel tool and cut off wheel to cut the old plastic case where the lock cylinder fits around the switch - be very careful here - look at the new switch assembly BEFORE you start cutting. By now you should have it out.

6> With your new plastic switch complete with lock cylinder installed, replace the two wires on the back, give the key a turn to the on position and push in the trans shifter interlock. The small 3 wire lead will be connected when you installed the lock cylinder. Reassemble from there.

7> Hopefully you will have it back together. Tuen the ignition to on and wait several minutes until the Theft lock lite quits blinking and is on steady. Hopefully you will be go from there. For mine however I have ignition, but no starter, so I am still searching for how to defeat the passlock system. Did some reading and found leave the key in the on position for 15 minutes, but have not tried this yet.

Good luck from

Sam, Regina, Sask.