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You take it to the shop. It CAN be done in a home shop, but it is HUGELY time consuming and is not a job for the average person in their driveway. If you wanna try though, 1) remove engine cover. 2) partially drain coolant and remove coolant reservoir (mark all the vacuum hoses) 3) remove fuel lines from the fuel distribution block/leak detection pump. 4) remove sparkplugs and drivebelt 5) remove upper timing belt cover (it has the enging info sticker on it) 6) jack up right front of car and support on jack stands, remove front wheel. 7) remove lower fender apron 8) Rotate the engine until piston 1 is at Top Dead Center. Verify that the camshaft sprocket mark is aligned witht he mark on the rear timing belt cover. 9) losen the crackshaft drive sporcket bolt and the pulley bolts. (you may have to use a strap wrench to keep the crackshft from ratating witht he wrench) 10 Make sure that the number 1 piston is still at top dead center. 11 Support the engine on a piece of wood and remove the right engine mount and engine moutn support bracket 12 remove lower timing belt cover 13 release the timing belt tensioner 14 remove the timing belt 15 Inspect the camshaft sprocket for damage 16 inspect belt for contamination by coolant or oil. If found locate and fix source of leak 17 Inspect the tensioner and idler pulleys for damage or wear replace if necessary. Ok there are about 20 more step to put it back in and I am getting bored. a Haynes manual gives a step-by-step with photos and illustrations. I woudl also recommend that, while you are there, you also replace the water pump. the factory pump was plastic and the fins have likely broken off. Replace with a metal aftermarket pump. Don't be afraid to spend a little money on a good pump and a good belt. The cost of the labor to replace the them far far outweighs the actual cost of the part.
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