If you already know how to put one fixture on a 3-way, just connect white-to-white and black-to-black from one light to the next. If you're changing from a single switch to the 3-way, the exact wiring will depend on whether the power comes from the breaker box to the switch or the existing fixture. I'll assume you're starting from scratch or have the power going to the fixture.
You need #15 two-wire with ground and #15 three-wire with ground romex. Run two-wire from the breaker box to the first light fixture. Pull a another two-wire from this box to switch A and a three-wire between the switches. String two-wire from the first light to the second, second to third, etc. In the first box, connect white from source to the white fixture wire and the white going to the second box; black from source to the black to switch A; and the black fixture wire to both the white to switch A and the black to the next fixture. At each of the other 5 fixtures, connect all white to white and black to black (three pair in each box except the last one). At switch A, connect the white from the fixture to the common (center) connector and the black directly to the black going to switch B. The red and white wires going to switch B are connected to the two outside connectors of switch A. At switch B, the black goes to the common connector and the red and white to the outside connectors. At each box, connect all the bare wires (second ground) to each other and to the fixture or box. Now turn the power back on. If all the connectors are tight, power should follow the black wires from source past the fixture and switch A to switch B. From there it will go through one or the other of the travellers and, if switch A is in the same position as B, up the white switch leg to the fixtures, turn on all the lights and go back to ground.
In some cases in residential wiring you do. From a light fixture junction box to a switch box, the cable is a two wire, black and white. To connect the switch into the circuit at the fixture box, the "hot" conductor is connected to the white wire that goes down to the switch. The switched "hot" comes back on the black wire and this is then connected to the fixtures black wire. The white (neutral) is picked up in the fixtures junction box and connected to the fixtures white wire.
Piggyback off the box for the existing light. Run a wire from the existing junction box to a new junction box (which is placed wherever you want the new fixture). Then, in the existing box, connect the wire coming from the switch, the wire for the existing fixture, and the wire for the new fixture together using wire nuts. Wire up the new fixture, and presto, you have two fixtures on a switch where there was only one before.
It sounds like you are describing either a slimline or dc recessed base type of fluorescent fixture. There is a wiring diagram on the ballast of both of these types of fixtures. Do your wiring the same as what is shown and you will have no problem.
The switch goes between the supply and the string of lights. If the supply is in a ceiling box you need to run a 3-wire cable from the switch to the ceiling box. Since your normal Romex cable for residential use has a black, white and bare wire you would use them as follows: At the switch connect black to one side of switch and white to other side.. Wrap black electric tape around white cable for 3 inches or so to identify it as a hot wire. Do the same at the ceiling end. In the ceiling connect one switch black wire to the supply black and the other pseudo black wire (White wire with tape) to the black wire on light fixture. Connect the supply white wire to the light white wire. Connect all bare wires together (ground). Connect bare wire at switch to green screw on switch.
You can wire two light fixtures several ways.One way would be to come out of a junction box with a supply feed going to each fixture.
If it is a 2-wire switch- yes If it is a 3-wire switch- no
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Run a wire from the light to the switch. At the light connect the black power wire to the black wire to the switch. Not wrap some black electric tape at each end of the white wire going to the switch (This indicates that the wire is potentially hot and not a common wire). At the switch connect the black wire to one side of the switch and the taped wire to the other side of the switch. Connect the ground (bare) wire to the green screw on the switch. Now at the light connect the taped white wire to the black wire feeding the light and connect all grounds together with a wirenut.
A single pole switch would have a hot wire from the source, a switch leg going to the load, and a ground wire to ground the switch for your safety.
A switch is inserted in series with a single wire. When the switch is on, it is as if the wire had not been opened to insert the switch. When the switch is off the wire is open and no current can flow. All a double pole switch does is allows you to switch two separate wires at the same time with the same switch action. A single pole switch just switches one wire.
You have a 3 way switch. Your black wire is the hot wire. Your green wire is the ground wire. Your red and white wires go to the light and other switch. You should have gotten a wiring diagram with your switch.
Yes. In the US at least.
Wire the switch to the hot/black lead.
with a standard 1 pole light switch (one switch operating the light) it is black wire to black wire and white to white (non grounded)
If you have one wire into your switch box for your light. this is called a switch leg, the dimmer should be wired across the black and white wire wires.
Pilot wire is mentioned in many places related to electrical installations. In wiring between emergency lighting fixtures there is an extra wire called the pilot wire which is used simply as a detector that detects the cutout of electricity and prompts the lighting fixtures to operate depending on their self contained battery packs. regards,
No. In a 20 amp circuit all wire has to be 12 AWG or larger.
you must have to much of a load on the outlet or didnt tighten the screws holding the wires tight enough , it should not go out that quickly. if you want to wire it for recess you first have to check if you can get to the location in the attic above the switch. and you need to be able to fish a wire down to the switch up to the recesed lite. which sometimes is not the easiest job to do , better to just call in the electrician for this job
Follow the high tension wire to the plug, which is deeply recessed into the head.
Bring the hot power wire into the wall switch box and run another wire out to the outlet. Tie all the whites together in the switch box under a wire nut and shove this back into the box. Tie the black incoming wire and the black wire going to the outlet together and jump a wire off this to one of the screws on the light switch. Connect the black wire going to the light to the other screw on the light switch. Connect the white/black wire to the outlet.
When the neutral wire goes to the switch
You can't. You will need a 3way switch at each end with 12/3 or 14/3 wire run between them. Power at one switch and light wire at the other switch.
How do you wire a time clock with a contactor with a override switch
Yes. I am assuming this is a residential question. A better answer is...if the 8 recessed lights draw fewer than 16 amps together, it is good.