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How does waves shape the coast?

Updated: 9/27/2023
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Q: How does waves shape the coast?
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Continue Learning about Physics

Do waves change shape as they travel?

yes they certainly do


What is the structure built parallel to the shore that shields the coast from breaking waves?

Seawall


What happens when waves approach and pass each other?

When the two waves meet, a wave interference occurs, causing them both to take on a different shape at the moment they meet.


Why do waves at the beach often strike parallel to the shore despite the fact that the wind is blowing the waves in at an angle?

There are many factors that determine the direction that waves take. Out in deep water, wind and surface currents affect the direction of waves. When you get closer to the coast the shape and contour of the earth's surface affects the wave's direction more.As a wave becomes shallow it slows down. If the wave is at an angle to the shallow part of the shore, the wave bends and becomes more parallel to the beach. Also most beaches are not actually straight, they curve so there are parts of the wave that are parallel to the shore.


What kind of process can create rogue waves?

Rogue waves on the open sea can dwarf even hurricane waves such as the one above. enturies ago, the "hole in the ocean" was the folklore of grizzled old sea dogs. Today, oceanographers know that the catastrophic phenomena -- which they call "freak" or "rogue" waves -- do indeed exist, and they even have a good idea of what causes the towering waves. While always unexpected, freak waves tend to occur more often in particular areas, such as off the eastern coast of South Africa (where the Waratah disappeared and the Oceanos sunk, as described in the SAVAGE SEAS episode "Killer Waves"), in the Gulf of Alaska, and off the Florida coast. That has given oceanographers vital clues about their origin.