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remove caliper, remove 4 bolts located on the back of rotor hub assm. removing axle nut can allow the axle to "wigle" around enough to get all 4 bolts. gently tap from behind and rotor/hub assm will fall out . then you can access the 4 rotor to hub bolts

To remove a front rotor: slightly loosen the lug nuts of one tire, safely jack up that side of the car only, put a jackstand in place, remove the lug nuts and the tire. Remove the two long bolts that retain the brake caliper, lift the caliper out of its bracket and secure the caliper out of the way so there is no strain on its rubber brake tubing. Remove the two bolts that hold on the caliper's bracket, and remove the bracket, leaving the brake pads in the bracket. Now remove the large center hub nut from the spindle. If you don't have the proper metric socket, a 1 & 7/16 sae will work. The opposite tire must be fully on the ground and blocked to prevent the hub you are working on from turning while you are trying to remove the hub nut. Also, the emergency brake must be on and the rear tires must be blocked to prevent car from moving. The hub nuts both have normal threads (turn cc to loosen). The hub nut is a bearing adjustment nut and so should not be torqued tight; however it may very well be corroded very tight. If it is, use a corrosion-loosening spray. If you don't have heavy duty air tools, try using a heavy 1" bladed chisel on the middle of all the flat parts of the nut (NOT on the edges that the socket must push against!) to loosen the stuck nut and urge it to turn cc. After enough pounding with hammer and chisel, and frequent spraying, hopefully the socket will be able to remove the hub nut. [It is a good idea to buy new hub nuts for re-installation, because the hub nut must be retained in its proper bearing-holding position by using a punch to deform the thin outer lip of the hub nut into the notch of the spindle threads, NOT by tightening the hub nut. This thin outer lip can easily tear away with repeated punching, rendering it incapable of preventing the hub nut from coming loose, a dangerous safety condition.]

There are 4 bolts that hold the hub to the rotor; remove two of these (the ones closest to the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions) and re-insert two 10mm x 1.25 three inch long or longer well-greased bolts; when these two new bolts (they should be available at Ace Hardware) contact the backing plate (which will be supported against these bolts by the inner hub), alternate tightening them until the outer hub (attached to the rotor) separates and can be pulled away from the car. Remove all 4 bolts (the two new long ones and the remaining two original ones) and the rotor will separate from the hub.

Additional info: Lots and lots of people needlessly struggle with the axle nut. Here's how to beat it once and for all: go to AutoZone or wherever, and buy the 34 mm socket, and buy an inexpensive 1/2" drive breaker-bar, 20 inches long or longer, at Harbor Freight or ebay. Both of these tools can be had for less than $50, which won't get you a half an hour of time in the dealer's shop, and you get to keep and use the tools for the rest of your life! The socket won't get used much, but the breaker bar certainly will.

Step One: Do not lift the car, do not remove the wheel. Remove only the hubcap.

LOOSEN AND REMOVE THE AXLE NUT FIRST! THEN lift the car, remove the wheel, etc.

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โˆ™ 2011-06-02 18:25:50
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Q: How to change rotors on a 1993 Honda Accord?
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