First off you must make sure that your generator has overcurrent protect. This comes from article 445 in the NEC. Then size your wires accordingly. Then hook up your 2 hots, neutral, and ground, making sure you use wire that is listed for a wet location. Your pump will need a disconnect along with overcurrent protection.
Neutral is vitalIf your generator doesn't have a neutral connection, no. (The generator would be rated for 240V only) If you don't have a neutral you will burn up half your 120V applainces. AnswerThe three prong should plug into the 4 prong and work. The fourth prong is to ground the body of the appliance. Three prong may only ground the motor. Instead of 2 power and 1 gound, the box is 2 power, 2 ground. Should still plug in.
The best thing to do would be to replace the outlet with a four prong outlet. That way you get a separate equipment ground which is required by the newest code. Otherwise you could replace the cord on the dryer with a 3 prong cord, and connect the ground and neutral together in the dryer, but this is no longer recommended.
it also carries curent from the outlet
Have to have 4 wires from panel so a change of feed is needed. So over a $100 dollars at least
Explain what you mean by "3-way outlet". I've heard of 3-way switches, but not 3-way outlets. I would guess the person asking the question is asking how to wire a three-prong socket, as opposed to a four-prong socket...
Change either the plug or the cord. The fourth prong is another ground. It would be easier to change the cord.
Answer for UK, Europe and countries running a 50 Hz supply service.A four-prong socket on the generator implies that it's a 3-phase generator.The welder appears to be single-phase load working at 240 v 50 A but provided the generator is rated at 415 v 36 kVA that means it can supply 240 v 50 A on each phase, between line and neutral.Given the voltage and power of the generator an electrician should be employed to identify the socket correctly, do the wiring and ensure earthing is correctly completed. Without this the system is dangerous, someone could get electrocuted.
Your question is likely based on the mistaken impression that you can power your house this way if there is a power outage. If you are even thinking this you are not capable of pulling this off without potential dire consequences. There is no polite way to say this, you would be stupid to try this. McIver could do this, but you shouldn't try this unless you want to burn down your house and perhaps kill you and your family. To provide backup generator for your house you need an automatic or manual transfer switch to connect the generator.
If you properly connect a 3 conductor cable to a 4 prong twist lock plug end this can be done. You must be sure that the grounding conductor and neutral are connected to the right terminals. Then the hot conductor, probably black, will connect to only one of the hot terminals. It wouldn't matter which. In this configuration you have 120v supplied from a 240v twist lock outlet and the cable can be connected to anything that requires just 3 conductors and 120v.
Depends on the rating of the generator. You must match the appliance voltage to the same generator output voltage. In this case if your appliance was 120 V you would need a generator with a rating above 2.4 KW.
As far as I know, you can't. It would be safer to have a new outlet installed closer to the dryer.
I have a question about this 3rd wire. So in this old house, wired with only 2-pronged outlets, apparently an electrician came in and added some 3-pronged outlets, on opposite sides of the living room. Now the kitchen still has only 2-prong outlets, but we want to plug in our microwave oven (which of course has a 3-prong plug) in the kitchen, not in the living room.Here's the deal: the wall that separates the living room from the kitchen is one that has a 3-prong outlet installed. To make things even more opportunistic, the 3-prong outlet (facing the living room) is mounted to the same stud as a two prong outlet facing into the kitchen.You should know where I'm going with this: instead of running the 3rd wire from my kitchen 2-prong all the way back to the electrical box (in order to convert it to a 3-prong), can I just run a short ground wire to the ground on the adjacent 3-prong and call it a day? I would have a nice installation because I could fish this wire between the two outlets inside the wall. My tester indicates that the 3-prong has a good ground, but I know that it was installed later than the rest of the house and is definitely on a separate circuit. Is there a problem with this approach? <<>>There is no problem doing this at all. It is safer to have an unorthodox ground that none at all. Your approach is no different that normal home branch circuit wiring, that all receptacles on the circuit share the same ground wire. This is the more sensible approach that just changing the kitchen two wire receptacles to three wire receptacles and not connecting the ground at all. Well, to do it properly would mean redoing the wiring as well, as the 3rd prong needs a wire too.
You need to understand what is in play here. A standard 3-prong 110 VAC outlet has a ground (bare wire or green), neutral or common (white) and hot (black). The operating voltage is measured between the black and white wires. A residential 4-prong outlet would typically be for a 220 VAC outlet for a dryer or stove. In this case you still have a ground and a common, but now you have two hots (typically red and black). There is 220 volts across red and black and 110 volts between white and black and white and red. To rewire you need to go back to the electric panel and run a new 3-wire cable (the ground wire is not counted) of the right size for the required current and you need a two pole breaker which will have connections for red and black wires. The white goes to the common bus in the panel and ground goes to the ground bus.
I am assuming you are trying to find all outlets that are connected together in a circuit. The easiest way is to have a tone generator. They make a few different kinds. In one you plug in a tone generator that is built into a standard AC plug and you can put the receiver at the electric panel to locate the breaker that controls that outlet and you would do this for all outlets by "Toning Out" each outlet in question. In another method you connect a tone generator to any outlet and then use the receiver to see which other outlets have the tone present. In this method you should turn off the power to the outlet you are using as the starting point. If you have no tone generator you can turn off breaker for the outlet where you will start and use a volt meter to find all other outlets that are off. You can get a good toner for $20 to $30.
Probably more than you think, because they will have to replace the cable all the way back to the breaker in addition to changing the outlet itself. The exact cost will depend heavily on your home's construction. He might have to crawl through the attic, or in the crawlspace under the home, if it has one. How far from the breaker panel to the outlet? Some wallboard may have to be removed. Your electrician cannot legally use the existing two-conductor-with-ground cable that you have now. You really need to have someone physically look at your installation to get a realistic bid.
Need to know what the voltage is. A NEMA number of the pin configuration would also help.
If electrical plugs had only one prong, nothing would happen. Electricity would not complete a circuit. Nothing would work.
Yes. The connections to the outlets would be identical. The only difference is the shape of the neutral pin, and the amps rating of the outlets. To meet code requirements you should also change the circuit breaker. A stove takes a 50 amp breaker, but a dryer should have a 30 amp breaker. Make sure the power is shut off before doing this, and if unsure call an electrician.
The main difference is that a simple AC generator is one meant for personal or household use that plugs into a wall's AC outlet. It is much less powerful than a power station generator, which usually must be wired into a main electrical supply. +++++ Errr, why would you plug a generator into a household mains socket? I'm glad I am not your home insurer!
Generators do not store energy they produce energy. A storage device for DC voltage is a battery. AC voltage can not be stored.
A circuit breaker is the only reusable circuit protector in that list. A fuse is also circuit protection, but it is not reusable. A length of wire can work like a fuse in some applications, such as feeding transformers on poles, but the wire would have to be small enough of a gauge to be able to burn out when overloaded. However, the wire would need replaced after an overload. A three prong outlet is for protecting humans, not circuits. The ground wire is for providing a low impedance fault current path back to the breaker to trip the faulted circuit's breaker (or fuse). The opening of the circuit will prevent a possible fire. However, a three prong outlet doesn't actually provide the protection of tripping the circuit.
If you are viweing this because you want to change the newer 4-prong plug/outlet to fit an older 3 prong outlet/plug don't do it! The newer plug is safer and the 3 prong plug no longer meets code. See the discussions in other threads. all you need to do is hook the two hot leads on the outer terminals, then the nueatral, white wire on the center terminal and the green ground wire to the ground screw. Be sure to remove the bonding jumper that ties the neutral to the chassis. This is no longer needed as now you have a ground line from the outlet. There should be 3 insulated lugs in the dryer, two hots and a neutral. Connect the red and black wires in your new cord to the hot lugs (red & black are interchangeable), and the white neutral to the neutral lug. Neutral is the center wire on your older 3-wire cord, for reference. Connect the green ground wire directly to the chassis of the sryer using a convienent screw. Use the four prong cord if you can. It is safer because it has the extra ground wire which older cords did not.
I assume you mean a standard (15 or 20-amp) outlet and are not trying to make a 220 connection for a stove, dryer or air conditioner. If that's what you want, forget it. You would need to run more and heavier wires and install a different shape of outlet and a different circuit protector. Otherwise, most people just hook up the two wires to the new outlet and ignore the second ground connector. Of course, then they don't have the safety feature of a second ground, and this would be unsafe and possibly illegal. To do it right, you need to have your electrician run a third wire from the second ground back to the grounding bar in the breaker box, or install GFCI protection. The National Electrical Code (NEC) 406.3(D)(3) allows this without a third (grounding) wire, but only IF you install a GFCI receptacle to replace the 2-prong receptacle, or install a GFCI circuit breaker for that circuit, and mark the outlets "GFCI Protected" and "No Equipment Ground".
home depot or a electical supply store has what you need..just put it together you need your cord and your and your plugs but you would have a problem with the ground... you wouldn't have one.... very dangerous... I do this often to use the generator on my motorhome to power my house or more often the reverse when I want to plug the shore power line on my motorhome (which is a 4 prong male connector) into my 50 amp 230 volt welder outlet in the garage (which is a 3 prong female outlet). To do the latter is easy and not dangerous. The wire you will need to purchase is a four conductor number 6 guage copper wire to support 50 amp service and meet National Electrical Code. The colors of the wires in this conductor are black, green, red, and white. Since you are making an extension cord you will be using a flexible cable which can be purchased from a home center or electrical supply house but it should be rate as junior hard service or hard service and will have a marking on the thermo plastic cover of SJO, SJOO, SJT or SO, or SOO for hard service. These cable types are rated for outdoor use in wet and oily applications such as garages, construction sites, theater stages and the like. Type SO is quite common and more detailed discussion on these and others are covered in article 400 of the NEC. Now for the wiring connection. From the four conductor cable connect the green and white wires together to make the ground connection on the three prong welder recepticle. Do not cut either of these wires as they are needed to carry the amps of the load to ground. Connect the Black wire to one of the spade connectors on the three prong recepticle and the red wire to the other. The four prong plug is mearly a two 120 volt circuit connetion that has a black and white wire connected for load and ground on one, and the red and green connected for load and ground on the other. Since each of these two circuit are from different breakers in the generator or house circuit breaker panel. they add together to give 240 volts at the three prong recepticle. You can make this all easier, however, by going to Miller Electric who make this adapters for their welder generators for $59.00, or going to an RV supplier and buying the 50 amp 50 foot cable with the four prong connector already attached and made of the right rated cable. Attach the four remaining leads to a weather proof outlet box with a snap lid much like those on the outside of your house but made for a 240 volt three prong female recepticle. Hope this helps. From Grant.
The short answer, no. The long answer - A 15a 110v current tap can supply approximately 1650 watts. A 30a 110v load would assume a demand of 3300 watts. Splicing multiple cables together to supply this load would be an unsafe practice, as it would be possible for one or the other cables, or receptacles to become overloaded, creating a possible fire hazard. Assuming the generator is rated above that load demand, it would be much safer to add a correctly rated outlet to the generator, and utilize a properly rated cord for connection.