Is everything on that circuit breaker not working? Breakers will go bad sometimes.
Get yourself an inexpensive receptacle tester (~$4.00 at hardware stores) and test each outlet. It looks like a plug with 3-4 lights on the end. It will diagnose simple problems (no hot, no ground, no neutral, reversed wires) and can aid in diagnosis.
A breaker trips when there is too much current. If you unplug everything on the circuit and the breaker still trips then you have a wiring problem or a bad breaker. From your description it is not possible to be certain if the problem started when you installed new outlet or previously. You have to describe your problem in better detail to get a good answer. When you have a circuit that trips the corresponding breaker, you need to go through each outlet on the circuit and rule it out as the problem. This can be done by pulling each outlet, from the wall and systematically remove wires from outlets while power is off and determining when problem goes away.
It is a relay or switch problem. A circuit breaker or fuse won't keep a light on.
There is only one circuit breaker to my knowledge and it is for the power windows. I have a 1968 Fleetwood and it is very similar. What exactly is the problem?
You need to identify specifically what is causing the breaker to trip. It could just be that you have to many devices or appliances on the circuit; or it could be a problem with the wiring, switches or outlets. Some steps to take. 1.) Unplug everything from the circuit. If it doesn't trip anymore you had too much plugged in. Identify what can be switched to another circuit. 2.) What device or appliance causes the problem? It is most likely something like a heater or something with a motor; or perhaps too many higher wattage light bulbs. 3.) If the breaker always trips when it rains, you may have a water moisture problem? 4.) If the breaker trips when nothing is connected it may be the breaker or a short in an outlet or switch.
The purpose of a circuit breaker in a panel is to protect the wiring and devices like switches, outlets and other devices that are part of that circuit. It isn't unusual to plug in an appliance into a circuit whose amperage rating is less than the breaker protection. If such an appliance doesn't have its own over-current protection it may well "fry" in an over current situation. However, if your 40 Amp device is directly connect to the 70 A circuit and has no over-current protection on its own you are risking a serious problem. If your 40 A device is on this dedicated circuit you should protect it with a properly sized breaker.
When several outlets are on the same circuit the current comes first from the breaker panel to one outlet where it is connected to a duplex receptacle and/or switch or light, then to the NEXT outlet, light or switch. If a connection was not made properly at any point along the way it can corrode or somehow loose connection back to the breaker panel. If that happens, every outlet DOWNSTREAM will not be working properly. If you cannot track down the problem yourself, you will need to hire an electrician.
A circuit breaker will trip if it is faulty or if the connected circuit has a short circuit or a connected device is trying to draw more current than the breaker rating. If you disconnect the output wire from the breaker and it still trips, it is a faulty breaker. If the breaker is tripping immediately when it is turned on then start disconnecting elements of the circuit to see what might be causing the problem. If everything was working and now isn't, it is likely that the wire from the breaker is nicked where it exits the box and is shorting to the feedthru connector.
Your bathroom outlets might be connected to a GFCI Outlet. The Ground Fault Circuit Intercept outlet prevents you from electrocuting yourself in the odd chance that you drop an electrical appliance into the water of the bath tub while you're in it. Look around and see if there's one outlet with 2 buttons on it labeled Test and Reset and if you find one hit the Reset button and see if the other outlets start working.
If everything on the circuit is dead, I would start at the breaker box.Start with the simple stuff -trip and reset every breaker individually, not just the suspicious circuit or just the main. Sometimes, a breaker trips -but not to the extent that the tab flips to "off".If that doesn't work, leave the breaker on and, with a multimeter set to ACV, put one lead on the ground bar and the other on the screw head on the breaker. You should get a reading of 110V -if not 110V, then remove and replace that breaker.If you do get a 110V reading, the problem is an "open" in the circuit. Think of a circuit as a chain and the outlets/switches are the links. If a link is not connected, the remainder of the circuit (everything after the open) will not work. Start at the breaker box and trace the circuit to each of its connections at the switches and outlets. Remove the outlet/switch covers and peek inside the box to make sure the connections are secure. You can inspect the circuit with the power on or off. If you do leave the power on, use extreme caution while you're probing around -you might just find the open circuit the hard way!If you still don't find the open circuit, test each link (outlet/switch) separately, again starting closest to the breaker box.
Shut the breaker off that feeds the circuit. Inspect the duplex receptacle on the (hot) brass side connections. If the tie bar is missing from the top to the bottom then that is the problem. If there is a wire on each of the brass screws and the tie bar is missing then the problem is the feed (breaker) to that section of the duplex receptacle is shut off.
Whats the problem?
A short circuit in the wiring or in the switch.
Check the circuit breaker to see if it tripped.
This problem is usually associated with a loose neutral (the white wire ) in a multi-wire branch circuit. It could be loose on any of the devices on the circuit or at the neutral bar in the breaker panel. Start at the panel at work your way through the outlets involved.
A short straight to ground. Unplug and disconnect everything from the circuit and then reconnect things one at a time until the breaker trips. That is your problem. (Also could be a bad breaker)
In Canada the CEC states there shall be not more that 12 outlets on any 2 wire branch circuit. Such outlets shall be considered to be rated at not more that 1 amp per outlet. Where the connected load is known, the number of outlets may exceed 12 providing the load current does not exceed 80 % of the rating of the over current device protecting the circuit. In the United States, in commercial and industrial installations, you are limited to 10 receptacle outlets on a 15 amp circuit and 13 receptacle outlets on a 20 amp circuit. This is computed by rating each outlet at 180 watts and dividing that into the maximum rated wattage of the circuit. On lighting circuits you are limited to 80% of the rating of the circuit without any other limitation on how many lights can be connected. In dwellings in the United States there is no limitation on how many outlets (which is the box, not the device) that can be placed on an individual circuit. This is because it is presumed that, assuming the system is professionally installed, it is highly unlikely to overload an individual receptacle circuit in a home. It does happen, but the breaker protects the circuit. You run into this problem most often in older homes where having a toaster, coffee maker, microwave, refrigerator, ceiling light, etc etc was never imagined. Newer homes are wired to reduce the likelihood of this problem.
That has to be a ground fault protection breaker. Lucky you! When it is off there will be outlets that don't light the test lamp you plug into the sockets around your home. Find and list the dead ones. Somewhere you have a waterleak into the socket or something connected to that breaker that has a water leak into it's electrical connections
Please ask a new question with more info about the vehicle and the problem.
a circuit breaker trips on overload,if this breaker has tripped many times it may be worn out,if there is a overload happening the breaker is doing it s job keeping you safe.Main breaker needs to be replaced when your meter has been pulled(removed from metersocket)Have a electrician look at it and verify problem, you should not attempt to change out yourself it will be live.......
Tandem breakers, often called split breakers or double breakers, provide two separate circuits in the space of a regular sized breaker opening. Every circuit breaker panel has a limited number of circuit openings available. The problem is that when the openings are all used up and you still need to add another circuit, what do you do? You could change the electrical panel or double up circuits on a breaker, but this could place too much load on a particular circuit. So what then? The answer that many have found is a tandem breaker. This type breaker is the same size as any other breaker, but it has its difference. This breaker sports two smaller breakers built into one regular sized breaker. Each has its own breaker switch and the breaker snaps in just like a regular breaker. With this simple innovation, you can add a circuit and protect the circuit on its own dedicated line.
A breaker trips because the circuit load has tried to draw more current that the circuit is designed to operate at. You have to establish what the total current draw of the device is. This can be found on the manufactures label. There it will state what the normal amperage draw is for the specific piece of equipment. If the breaker has tripped, look for the cause and rectify the problem before resetting the breaker. If you found the problem and corrected the cause, the breaker will reset and stay in the on position.
There are three possibilities: the circuit is not rated for the power draw of the water heater, the breaker has failed or there is a problem with the water heater.
The answer is, yes and no. Yes you can physically pull a 15 amp circuit breaker and install a 20 amp circuit breaker into the same slot on nearly all modern electrical distribution panels. No, if the wiring is only 14 gauge then the potential exists to use more amps on the circuit than the wiring was designed for and you could be creating a hazard including fire from hot and shorted lines. A 20 amp circuit require no less than 12 gauge wire. If you are having a problem with a 15 amp circuit breaker that cannot be resolved by replacing the breaker with another 15 amp circuit breaker, it's time to research why the breaker is tripping to start with. If it's tripping because there more than a 15 amp load, it's time to shed some of the existing load on that circuit.