Replace a rear shock on a 2001 Volvo s60?

Answer 1

On a 2001 S60 base model this is a fairly easy job. It took me about an hour and a half to replace both rear shocks, but probably could have been done in about 1 hour now that I know exactly what needs to be done.

Tools needed:

- floor jack

- torx socket (size T40) and socket wrench

- 18mm angled box end wrench (preferably ratcheting)

- 17mm socket wrench

- hammer

- sturdy steel rod about 3/8" in diameter or perhaps a long, large screw driver would do

General info:

Remember to follow typical good safety practices. Wear your personal protective equipment, make sure the car is on a level surface, have the car in gear, place blocks around one of the tires you are not removing, etc.

The top mount is located inside the trunk near the wheel well. Lay the rear seat forward and from the back seat you should see one retaing clip along the side (previously hidded by the seat back). Remove that clip and pull the trunk lining away to provide access to the wheel well area. There's a round (about 6") piece of black foam covering the shock mount.

Procedure:

1) Jack up one rear corner and remove the wheel.

2) Set blocks (or jack stands) under the car to hold it up while you are working on the rear suspension.

3) Locate the top mount as described above.

4) Use the 18mm box end wrench to loosen the mounting nut while holding the top shaft of the shock with the T40 torx socket and wrench to keep it from turning.

5) Use the 17mm socket and wrench to remove the bottom mounting bolt. Before removing I used a wire brush on the exposed threads and sprayed them with oil to aid the removal.

6) With the car on blocks use the floor jack to lift the suspension arm. You may have to tap on the bottom of the old shock to get it to break loose and drop out. At this point I had to raise the suspension arm a little more to allow enough clearance to get the old shock completely out.

7) Lift the new shock into place and insert the top shaft through the upper mounting hole.

8) Either: have a helper start the nut on the top mount in the trunk or push the bottom of the shock high enough that it starts to line up with the bottom mount. This should hold it in place enough for you to get the top nut started on the upper shaft inside the trunk.

9) Tighten the 18mm nut while again holding the upper shaft using the torx socket.

10) This was the hardest step. Align the bottom of the new shock with the lower mount. I used the floor jack to slowly push it into place watching the mounting hole to see when it was lining up. I could only get one side lined up at a time this way and if you push it too far up on either side you will need to use the long rod and hammer to tap it back down. I pushed it up until the front hole lined up and then tapped the rear side down to allow the bolt to line up with the rear side of the mount. To tap it down I inserted the long rod roughly vertical through the rear coil spring so that the end of the rod touched the rear side of the lower end of the shock. Then tapped the rod with the hammer until the rear hole lined up.

11) Tighten the bottom mounting bolt

12) Replace the black foam and trunk lining.

13) Mount the wheel, unblock the car, and move on to the other side.