Buick Park Avenue
VW Jetta
Locks and Latches

Trunk latch will not close park ave 1994?

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2015-07-17 17:37:47
2015-07-17 17:37:47

If your car has a power close mechanism like my 91 Park Ave used to I would recommend taking it to a body shop and have them weld the striker in place. The pull down mechanism is so finely balanced that if you slam the lid a little too hard it will throw the alignment off (between the latch and the striker)and the lid will not close or not close properly. In my case the lid would open at the most inopportune moment, usually on the highway. You should still be able to use the remote entry to open the lid, however I haven't got around to reconnecting mine. .

I am a "do-it-yourselfer". I will try to fix almost anything. The power trunk latch on my mom's 94 stopped pulling the trunk lid down so I assumed the motor was bad. It was not the motor. It was the switch. I bought the trunk lid switch from the dealer, installed it and it has been working perfectly ever since. .

Welding is not necessary. My 94 power close motor failed. I didn't care for the feature to begin with, so I manually turned the motor gear into the closed position, and now I just slam the trunk like any normal person. The open switch still works, but if it didn't, I could just use the key.

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If you have an automatic release like I had on a 1994 Buick P.A. and it stopped working and would not close, I had to replace the latch assembly to make it a manual by getting a used one from the salvage yard. The trunk still closes today.

you need to go to the buick dealer and buy a new module and replace. it cost me 15.00 for a 92 park ave. easy job 10 min.

If it's the one where a electric motor closes the trunk for you, you might have to get the new electronic switch by the latch on the car. That's what I had to do.

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I have a 1992 Buick Park Ave. My trunk did the same thing. You need to go to the GM dealer and order or buy a trunk motor switch. They are only $18.00 and will take you only 30 minutes or less to install. The switch is a little black colored rectangular box shaped thing, with 2 long screws bolting it up next to your trunk closer motor. Without the above, you won't be able to close the trunk unless you "jerry rig" the trunk latch. Save yourself lots of aggrivation...do it the right way! Doc..

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my switch went out leaving my trunk in the "up" position as the motor never activated to pull it down, but the motor was still fine. Instead of replacing it i just used two "jump wires" as in wires with alligator clips on both ends and i applied power just long enough to lower to the desired position to keep dust and water out of my trunk you may find this cheaper then replacing it. if that doesn't work putting in a latch u bolt in place of the motor is possible but a little know how may be required to convert it with lining it up in proper placement etc.

Peony Park was an amusement park in Omaha, Nebraska. It closed in 1994.

Buick should be sued over this one. They admit in their manual that this trunk feature can easily break and they admit that it can kill you, yet they go ahead and implement it with just a warning in the manual that most people don't read. For whatever reason, the relay switch on the trunk motor can easily fail. I suppose it depends on what position the latch is in when it fails as to how serious the problem. I bought my Park Avenue used the other night knowing it had this problem and that I could solve it. Before I give the solution, here is what my local Buick dealer said "it's probably a bad motor and they cost hundreds of dollars". As I was removing the grey trunk liner from around the motor I touched the lever on the relay and the motor turned and latch went down. I closed the trunk and opened it again and the latch came up but I could never get it to go down again. So, I unplugged the wires going into the relay. I got a star driver and removed the screw that holds the relay to the motor and latch gear casing. That exposes two metal tabs that lead to the motor. I got a 9-volt battery (I keep them around for my smoke alarms) and two wires that I have with alligator clips on each end. I clipped the two wires to the motor leads and left the wires to hang out of the trunk then closed the trunk. I clipped one wire to the negative post of the battery and then touched the other wire to the positive. Nothing happened (visibly, but the motor was trying to push the latch up. it was already up). Then I switched the wire from the negative post to the positive post and touched the other wire to the negative. The latch lowered. If you make it go too low it won't easily close without slamming, but this method makes it easy to position the latch exactly where it needs to be. Then just pop the trunk and remove the wires. I left the relay switch off and the trunk now operates like a normal trunk. The latch has two tabs that flip a toggle switch as it raises and lowers. If you have the "trunk ajar" light lit and it won't go out (I either don't have one or it's burned out) then you should be able to plug the harness back into the relay but don't attach the relay to the motor. Just flip the switch down and the light will stay off.

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