What acid is used in swimming pools?
muriatic acid, usually 30%
hydrochloric acid is used
hydrochloric acid is used
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YES. USE ABOUT TWO PARTS WATER ONE PART ACID. LET THEM SOAK FOR A FEW HOURS THEN RINSE. Muriatic acid can be used to clean filters, HOWEVER there is a proper sequence to clean…ing the filters. I am asuming you are talking about cleaning either cartridge or DE filters. If muriatic acid is used first in the cleaning process you will set the oils permanently into the filter material and ruin the filters. You MUST remove the oils from the grids (cartridge and DE) first then rinse with water. Next you can use the muriatic/water solution (1:10), then rinse again. To remove the oils from the grids or cartridges you can use a a cleanser manufactured for this purpose that you can purchase from your local pool & spa supply store or you can can use a TSP & water solution. TSP can be purchased at your local hardware store. Cartridge filters can loose approx. 20% of their capability with every filter cleaning. It is important that the filters cartridges be replaced every so often. Steve Dunn Vice President - Sales Commercial Pool Systems, Inc. Note: A 20:1 ratio (water to acid) should be sufficient for most situations. Even at this strength, it takes a lot of material (e.g. baking soda) to neutralize the acid for safe disposal.
Answer . There are 3 principal chemicals for lowering pH: muriatic acid, sodium bisulfate (dry acid) & CO2.\n. \nIf this is a commercial application then CO2 may be a via…ble source. \n. \nThe sodium bisulfate is dry acid which when mixed with water makes liquid acid but does not have the odor. \n. \nMuriatic acid and sodium bisulfate both lower total alkalinity at hte same time as lowering the pH. CO2 may raise total alkalinity at the same time as lowering pH.\n. \nThe total alkalinity is important to have a stable pH which in turn is important to have a relatively constant pH for the proper effectiveness of the sanitizer (chlorine)\n. \nAny other questions feel free to email me direct. \n. \nSteve Dunn\nCommmercial Pool Systems, Inc.\n.
Answer . Rough formula to determine required amount of conditioner: five pounds per 10K of water. You want to be sure that your filter is clean or has been cleaned within …the last week or so. Note: if filter is dirty and you add the conditioner -- then before it has had a chance to dissolve and you have to back wash or clean the filter -- you will loose all that you have added. If you have a white plaster pool: either broadcast the granular product over the water (approx. five pounds at a time), brush that which has settled to the bottom of the pool - no need to brush until all dissolved. Add a second application of five pounds if your pool requires the additional amount. Keep the circulation system running during this application and for some time afterward. You also may add part of this initial dosage(s) to the skimmer with the precaution that you pour it slowly into the skimmer. Reason: you do not want to overload the pump basket -- it will plug up and stop the water flow. After about a week or up to two weeks after adding conditioner test the water for conditioner levels (also known as cyanuric acid). You may need to buy an additional test kit specifically for conditioner if you do not have a more sophisticated test kit. Black or other tint plaster: Same quantities as above but the product is to be added to the skimmer only -- remember, slowly. Fiberglass: Same as white pools. If glass has a tint then same as black pools. Vinyl: Start at the skimmer and add most of your product there. Only small amounts should be added directly to the pool and you would want to brush (carefully) any that has settled in clumps. Note: With vinyl or above ground pools -- You will want to add the conditioner to the skimmer more slowly than you would with an in ground plaster pool -- mainly because the pump and pump baskets are much smaller and cannot handle more than a cup or so at a time. K
If you use acid you run the risk of the stuff turning yellow in the fairly near future Usualy grout only goes murky on the sulfate so the best thing to do is scrub it down wit… some thing like a stianless steel scrubbing pad (a stinker of a job) then after that is done and only if it is dry paint it with a clear silicone waterproofing sealant designed for grout or bricks to make your cleaning job last longer.
It lowers the pH
If you use it full strength on a plaster pool you will actually "etch" the plaster and weaken it, so you must dilute it with water. Start out weak with one part acid to four p…arts Muratic acid. If this has no effect try a mixture with fewer parts water. You want to err on the weak side, so as to not do damage to the underlying plaster surface. If the acid turns yellow and puts off a (sulfur smelling) cloud of fumes ( keep your distance from the fumes and always wear thick rubber gloves, rubber boots and eye protection) the reaction is probably too extreme. Keep a water hose handy to rinse the area off and stay out of the way of the draining acid/ water mix. Keep your acid spraying crew to a minimum, as you might accidentally spray another worker. The best set up would be one person sprays the acid mix from plastic spray bottles (buy some new clean ones at the store, because used ones may some residue which might react unpredictably with the acid.) and the other mans the hose and spray it off, once the first person is clear. We are working on a 28 year old plaster pool in Kansas.
u may want to try a pH increaser, which you can buy at some stores. This will lower the acidity level in the pool. check out this website for a how-to:. http://www.ehow.com/h…ow_17435_check-adjust-ph.html
Muriatic Acid is used to lower the pH in swimming pools.. It's also used to lower alkalinity. But, there's a way to lower pH and really not touch the alkalinity, and vice ver…sa. . pH and alkalinity and opposite sides of the same coin and you need to know how to add the acid with minimal effect on the other side. . www.clean-pool-and-spa.com give all the information you need
Muriatic Acid is used.
You can, but you run the risk of altering the pH of the pool water along with etching the cementuous material (other than the tile) that the acid might touch. The acid is co…rrosive, so be careful. I would suggest diluting the acid prior to using it as a cleanser. Use a product such as Scale-Be-Gone and you should get satisfactory results. Beware of glass bead blasting the tile as it damages the glaze on the tile and it will get scaled up faster than it did the first time.
In Swimming Pools
Balance. Your water NEEDS PH in between 7.2ph and 7.8ph so it will not damage your equipment (anything metal that your water will touch, such as rails, ladders, heat exchanger… in heater, copper piping, etc. ALSO - it helps in allowing OTHER chemicals to perform. Just remember - your water will do 3 things: if it has too much of anything, it will leave deposits everywhere. If it doesn't have proper PH, it will destroy metals to try to "grab" it from there. Thirdly? If its perfectly balanced, it will not leave scaling and calcium deposits, and it will not eat away at your plaster or metal equipment to feed itself minerals.
In Swimming Pools
Muriatic acid is most commonly used in swimming pools to lower the swimming pools PH and to lower the pools alkalinity. You should use caution when working with muriatic ac…id. Not only can it stain your clothes, pool deck, etc, but if you inhale too much it can cause tissue damage. Always consult a professional when working with chemicals that you are not completely knowledgeable about, some swimming pool chemicals when mixed wrong can have a chemical reaction and catch on fire.
In Swimming Pools
Nothing, probably take some germs away but that's it.
In Acids and Bases
Clorine acid and amonia base
In Swimming Pools
Muriatic acid is the preferred chemical. You can also use dry acid (sodium bisulfate, pH down)) which is a bit easier to use but does increase sulfates, which can be detriment…al to plaster surfaces, can foul salt cells, and is much more expensive to use.