You can try disconnect connector from fuel filter. Car wil work fine without this sensor. This sensor failing is common problem.
Yes....the peugeot 306 has power stering,and the earlier models have it also
after 5yrs or before 90,000 miles on the cars millage.
the studs are the same 4x100, whether the offset is correct i dont know, i have seen 206 gti wheels on a 306 dturbo before though
The 306 is a better option but neither will go straight in as the power steering pump will want to be where the radiator is.
The air conditioning relay switch can be found on the firewall in the engine compartment. The air conditioning relay switch will be on the drivers side of the firewall.
this is how to reset the immobilizer hope it helps. 1 enter ther code that is allready in the memory. 2 press the C button 3 enter the new four digit code 4 press the C button to validate. the code is confirmed by 4 bleeps
In theory, yes. However, you would also need to change the fuel pump to one off a XUD9TE engine as this contains mechanisms for increasing the fueling while the turbo is at full boost. Really, in the end it would be nearly as cheap to just buy a DTurbo
In my opinion, removing the front subframe makes this job much easier. Jack up and suitably support the front of the car so it is in a wheels free state. With wheels removed; * Remove the anti-roll bar drop links from the anti-roll bar * Free off the lower arm ball joints off * Remove the track rod ends from the swivel hubs * Remove the nut and bolt and special clip on the lower steering column universal joint * loosen off and disconnect the feed and return pipes to the power ram (beware stinking power steering fluid pouring everywhere!) Steering and suspension wise, the subframe should be free! * Remove the nut and bolt that secures the lower engine mounting to its bracket (the bolt that goes through the big round rubber mount at the back of the engine) * Disconnect all relevant gear linkage rods (this will be clear when you are under there!) * Support the subframe with a jack or somesuch and free off the 6, 18mm bolts that secure the subframe to the body shell. * remove all subframe mounting bolts. * lower the jack that is supporting the subframe, it should all drop quite nicely and then get stuck on the steering column universal joint! A good old college shove frees this and then you should be able to remove your subframe assembly from under the car. I preferred doing it this way, it takes longer but it is so much easier! It also exposed a lot of potential ball aches on my car, a loose coolant pipe, a knackered exhaust manifold stud, a worn gear linkage rod. The car feels much better for it, I also took the time to paint my antiroll bar bright red. Ahh yeah! Being able to work on the subframe in a warm garage with a cup of tea on hand was worth the extra time to me!