This light bulb may be on the same line as the vac. 1. Even if the dry vac is, let's say 300W, when it starts up it uses at least twice as much energy. If light dims and then goes back to normal, it's perfectly normal. 2. When light bulb dims and stays dim while operating dry vac, unplug it and never use in the same room again; it uses too much energy for the size of the wire and can cause overheating of wiring and fire! == == <><><> If the wiring is modern, check the connections on every device on that breaker or fuse. If you have a meter check the voltage at the receptacle with the vac and the light. <><><> There are two possibilities, depending on the details of the fault:
1) The bulb dims momentarily when you start the vacuum, then returns to normal brightness even while the vacuum is operating.
This is normal, as previously stated. The reason for this is that the limiting factor to current flow in a motor is the counter-voltage created by the running motor. [It actually works as a generator!. If you jam the motor so it cannot turn, the current flow through what is now an unimpeded conductor can be high enough to trip the circuit protective device!] ... and reduce the available voltage to any parallel connected device to the voltage across the motor! In this case, the resistance value of your circuit conductors can be the only significant load on the circuit [low resistance=high current!]
2) The bulb dims and stays dim throughout the operation of the vacuum.
There is something wrong with the circuit ... loose connection, partially open service neutral, partially broken wire, bad plug, dodgy breaker, etc. ... and the defect is part of the load, causing a voltage drop across the defect and your series connected motor! [voltage drop=energy usage=heat at the defect]
In this case, the bigger the load, the worse it looks!
Amps (current) times volts = watts. so watts divided by volts = current (Amps). i.e.- 0.5 Amps.
No electricity can be used or wasted if the lamp itself is turned off. It makes no difference if it has been turned off at the wall outlet or at the lamp itself. It is the same situation as a flashlamp that has a light bulb supplied by a battery. If the flashlamp is switched off the battery inside it is still there, waiting to feed the light bulb with current, but the current can only flow into the light bulb when the switch on the flashlamp is turned on.
Actually curent or voltage that passes through the object . then there will be a loss .if (current or voltage) the electrical energy is converted into light source , mechanical energy( rotation of fan),chemical reaction(electroplating) as heat (iron box ). so when no object(load) is connected to the plug point there wont be any loss if you r switch on the switch too.
No the receptacle itself does not consume any power it is just a source of power. No amperage is used until the load is plugged in and turned on. Appliances plugged in with the switch in the off position draw no current. Devices that do not have an off- on switch will start drawing power as soon as they are plugged in. Once an appliance is switched on you are billed for the use of the electricity.
Most Electric Ranges are plugged into a 50 A breaker for good reason. When everything is turned on it will likely draw more than 30 A. The first step is to find the rating plate on your range and see the current rating. If great than 24 A you shouldn't use 30 A breaker. Make sure connection wire is sized for the correct amperage.
the form of energy changes and the total of energy increases
If your laptop is turned on and it looks like it's plugged in, the batter could possibly be dead or the connection from the outlet to the computer has a problem.
You cooked it
If the outlet is powered with the key off, then yes it will slowly drain the battery.
That the outlet only has power when the ignition is turned on.That the outlet only has power when the ignition is turned on.
it is not recommended to use your cell phone when charging, this could cause the circuits to short. Ideally you should charge your battery when your phone is turned off
The formula you are looking for is I = W/E. W = kW x 1000.
A stereo system can fail for hundreds of reasons. About all you can do is make sure it is plugged in and all of the other cords are plugged in and that the speakers are working. If the stereo doesn't even light up, and it is plugged in, then it could be a fuse. Look on the back for a fuse holder . . . if not there, then it may be soldered into the circuit board inside. Several years ago, my stereo system would not turn on . . . after lots of brilliant troubleshooting (?), it turned out that I had plugged it into a wall outlet that was turned off by a switch over by the door.
Furnace blower plugged in, to a live outlet? Fuel (natural gas or oil) is sufficient? If your thermostat has a battery, you may need to replace the battery; that happened to me last year.
It's lean. Could be something plugged in the carb.
Amps (current) times volts = watts. so watts divided by volts = current (Amps). i.e.- 0.5 Amps.
It actually does a little bit, but not as much as being turned on.