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Size: There are many rabbit cages sold in stores that are too small for even the smallest rabbit. A rabbit cage should be big enough so the rabbit can stand up on hind legs without touching the ceiling, stretch out to full length without touching either end, and hop a few paces at least - and that's after all the supplies are inside (like a litter box, hay rack, toys).

Flooring: Some rabbit cages have wire grid flooring so the waste can fall through to a lower tray. Rabbits don't have pads on their feet, only skin and fur, so standing on grid surfaces is very uncomfortable and can lead to a condition called "sore hocks." Solid-bottomed cages are better. Rabbits are easily litter trained, so include a litter box: it's cleaner for you and for the rabbit. If your only option is a cage with a wire grid floor, give the rabbit a square of cardboard to sit on to get relief from the grid.

Doorways: Rabbits don't often like being handled, especially going in and out of their cage (which should be a comforting, secure place for them). Some rabbit cages have feet and stand high above the floor, but it's better to choose a cage the rabbit can hop in and out of on their own. If the door opens downward to make a ramp, cover it with plywood or cardboard so the rabbit's feet don't slip through, causing serious injury.

Other Options: Instead of a cage you could use a dog crate, or an exercise pen, or you can build a "cube condo" with wire grids (sometimes called NICs, these are wire grid cubing sold in hardware and home stores as storage cubes).

See the related questions below for more info and helpful links.

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