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Phosfree is said to remove phosphates from pool water which is then cleaned out with the regular filter clean or backwash. reducing phosphates in water reduces the posibility of algae in pools.
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∙ 15y ago
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Is it safe to swim with Phosfree n the water?
i don't think so
Why did the pool pump pressure increase when PhosFree was added?
The pressure increasing indicates that something is blocking the filter.
How does a chemical like phosfree work in getting rid of excess phosphate in a swimming pool?
Most commonly Phsphate removing chemicals are Lanthanum Chloride which kills any Phosphates in the water. This does take about 3 days of normal filtration to do its job.
Can't get rid of phosphates in poolI let my pool sit over the winter and can't get it green. Have done 2 yellow out treatments3 phosfree treatments and multiple shock treatments.Phosphates at 500ppm?
Neutralize all chemicals in the pool and then drain it. Do the annual filter cleaning - thoroughly and refill the pool with fresh water and retreat chemically. Never empty a vinyl liner pool! The liner will shrink and you will not be able to get it stretched back. Why go through neutralizing the water when you are just going to empty it anyway! DUMB waste of chemicals. Just drain 1/2 of the water and add fresh then adjust the balances in the clean water.
How often should you replace the sand in your pool filter if replacing it causes foam in the pool?
It sounds like you may have phosphates in the water, do you have lots of leaves or the aftermath of seeds from the trees blowing in your area, I had poplar tree seed casings white fluffy things and it gave me this problem. Solution is a product called phosfree. I always change my filter's sand once per season, unless there is a high concentration of leaves and other debris being vacuumed up daily. Then I will change it out mid-season as well. After changing the sand, I always backwash the filter for at least 5 minutes. That way the pulverized dust and other small particles in the sand get whisked away, instead of going into the pool. The sand under normal use should last 5 to 10 years if it's backwashed well enough. The foam could be caused by the algaecide used. The usual reason for replacing the sand is when sand is returning to the pools or it is no longer effective. You should check with your local pool chemical supplier. Most pool sales and service companies supply free water testing when you are a customer.
How to Get rid of green algae in pool?
Orange or yellow-colored spots in pool water or on pool surfaces is generally called mustard algae. This can be brushed off, but unless you use a strong algaecide they'll come back. You make sure your alkilinity and pH are correct, add 2 and 1/2 gallons of liquid chlorine, 4 to eight caps full of Yellow Treat, lightly brush the pool, run pump 24 hours,backwash or rinse cartridge, keep stabilized chlorine tablets in your pool weekly and start by checking your T.D.S. level's and see if you have stabilizer in your water. No Mor Problems is also a excellent product that can be used in conjunction with Yellow Treat. use mustard algecide. simple as that. its like 15$ a quart. I use a product called "PHOSfree", by Natural Chemistry. Once you get rid of the Mustard Algae (through various steps), this product is used once a week as a preventative. The way I understand it from my local pool people is that the algae lives off of the phosphates in your pool, Phosfree kills the phosphates, therefore the algae cannot live. Per information on bottle: "Phosfree" is not an algaecide or algaestat and does not kill algae. When added to your skimmer, a thin coating of Phosfree forms on the filter and phosphates are reduced to a very low level as pool water flows through it. Extensive research has proven phosphates are the limiting nutrient (food) for algae growth in lakes and rivers, and this is also true in swimming pools. Natural Chemistry's complete phosphate program results in clear perfect water, no waterline rings, no chemical odors, and phosphates. Normal sanitizer levels will prevent algae growth." I'm sure this sounds like a commercial or that I'am an employee, but I assure you I'am just a very satisfied customer. This is the second summer using this in my pool, and I haven't had any mustard algae. Kim H. Charlotte, NC The last resort to get rid of the algae is to drain your pool and chlorine bath it. To chlorine bath your pool all you do is walk around the inside of the pool while pouring strait chlorine down the plaster or pebble-tec. Make sure that you spend plenty of time pouring the chlorine around the lights and other places that are covered in your pool because algae could very well be hiding behind them. Once you have done this you should be able to just fill you pool back up with fresh water leaving the chlorine in the bottom if you don't have a pump to take it out. Visit This site to learn more about pool cleaning! Brandon D. Chandler, AZ Yellow algae is a result of a lack of chlorine in the pool. Either the pool has had no chlorine added, or the pool has become overstabilized to the point where there is not enough free chlorine to kill the yellow algae. Either way, the solution is relatively simple. For an average sized pool (10,000 to 15,000 gallons), add 5 pound of granular sodium di-chlor shock, as well as an entire bottle of a product known as AlgaTec (made by Easy Care). To prevent any algae from reoccurring, begin using a phosphate remover (such as PhosFree). Ask your pool professional to test your phosphate levels, and reduce them to less than 100ppm. Jody - Ohio I have an inground, vinyl sided, salt generator pool. I have been dealing with mustard algae for close to a month. After doing a lot of research, I have resolved the problem...almost overnight. As others have said, the problem is essentially chlorine levels, but adjusting to a normal level now is not going to solve the problem. Here is what I did to resolve it. I purchased a product from Ace Hardware called Yellowrid. The instructions that I followed are: 1) increase PH to a level of 8. 2) add entire contents of bottle of yellowrid as described - 1 container treats 15,000 gallons. 3) shock the pool (I didn't think this was permitted with a salt generator, but it is). 4) switch the filtration to the main drains only and allow the system to run continuously until the problem is resolved. If you have an automatic cleaner, run this 24 hours as well. 5) 12 hours after the initial shock, shock the pool again. 6) 24 hours after step 5, shock the pool again. The pool will clear up within the first 24 hours (no more sickening green/yellow color). 7) allow the pool to return to normal levels - test the water and make adjustments as necessary. Mustard algae will return in force if you don't get it all. Make sure the levels of chlorine are kept to the optimal for your system. Good luck and happy swimming!
How can i get rid of phosphates in swimming pool?
Answer Phosphates often come from dead and decayed organics in your pool. This can be from fertilizer in your own lawn, or it can be blown in from the wind (even invisible amounts). They also come from an abundance of debris. When you often get leaves, pollen, flowers, bugs, or anything like that in the pool they will sit in your filter and break down into phosphates. Another common cause is dogs, and lots of people swimming in the pool. Phosphates from people can come off their bodies in things such as skin cells, and detergents from the suits, and dogs are usually covered in phosphates. One cause of Phosphates in the pool are due to lawn chemicals getting into the water. If you have a lawn service who is putting down chemical .. you may want to cover the pool when the lawn service is there .. or ask them to stay further away from the pool. Next the family may be walking across the lawn to get to the pool .. or retrieve the errant ball when it gets away from them... then back in the pool .. with lawn chemical on the feet.. transferred to the pool .. and now you have phosphates in the pool. Laundry detergent also use phosphates and have been known to find their way into pools To prevent phosphates use a phosphate removal or maintenance preventive, skim the pool every day, clean the skimmer basket every day, and clean/backwash the filters as often as possible (every month if you live in a high-dust/debris environment)
Is there anything that can be done about vinyl plague- black fungus- underdeath the vinyl liner in an inground pool?
I believe I have this problem too. I thought it was algae at first...treated with half gallon of algaecide 60..nothing....tried Statin, a stain remover...nothing....tried PhosFree...no help either...am now trying a regimen of green out ,6 pounds of shock, and some stuff called no more problems...will have to wait till tommorrow to check for any results.....I did try placing 3 chlorime tablets on a surface skimmer net and laying it directly on top of one of the worst spots for 6 minutes...the spot disapeared....but the pool store does not recomend placing tablets directly on the vinyl pool store for ANY lenght of time...just a test to see if it was indeed liner plague...have you had any luck with anything? I asked this question on June 21. I corrected our problem with the "vinyl plague or vinyl fungus". We put 5 3" cholrine pucs in a row spaced about 1 1/2" apart over the brown spots for no more than 10 minutes. It may take less time. It will not discolor your liner if you don't go past 10 minutes. We kept moving the pucs till all the brown spots disappeared. It worked and they have not reappeared for now. One pool company told us to keep our PH at 8.0 and our free cholrine at 3.0 and this problem will not reoccur. Another pool place said not to do this unless absolutely necessary because our water will turn cloudy. So we're staying with our regular maintenance for now and hope the brown spots don't reappear. I have this problem ever since they replaced my liner 3 years ago. The same area gets that blackish stuff that you really can't rub out. I usually do 6 to 8 lbs of super shock dropping most of it in that area and then brishing it into the main drain. It dissapears for a few weeks and reappears if my chlorine level drops too low. Since I run a mineral frog set up, I tend to keep my chlorine level low to begin with. Heavy shock makes it go away but like an old friend, usually returns at some point to remind you they are still around.
