I believe a wave breaks when its steepness exceeds its height and speed.
A wave's energy moves in a circular pattern and the deeper the water column, the faster the wave travels and the smaller its size e.g. it has low steepness. As it approaches the shore and the water becomes shallow, the bottom of the wave drags on the ocean floor which slows the bottom of the wave down but the top of the wave continues at the same speed. Eventually the top of the wave gets so far ahead of the bottom that it topples over forming a breaker.
slope
The steeper the slope, the longer the stopping distance is.
The steepness of a graphed equation is called the slope. Slope can be found after choosing to points on the graph. After recording the coordinate points (x1,y1) snd (x2, y2), slope= y2-y1/x2-x1, or rise/run.
I believe a wave breaks when its steepness exceeds its height and speed.
The measure of the steepness of a line is known as a line's slope.
Its steepness is the absolute value of its slope.
An area cannot have a steepness. It can have different steepnesses depending on which direction you travel in.
The steepness of a line graph is called the "gradient" ------------------------------- or slope.
A straight horizontal line is a line having no steepness.
"Slope" is the steepness of the line on any graph.
The factors that affect coastal recession are: wind, rock structure, vegetation, weathering, fetch, destructive wave, steepness of the beach and soft or hard rock.
the steepness of the line is the slope of the line which is the rate of change; the steeper the slope, the faster the rate of change
I think 'stepness' should be 'steepness'. Steepness of the line is called slope of the line.
A wave's energy moves in a circular pattern and the deeper the water column, the faster the wave travels and the smaller its size e.g. it has low steepness. As it approaches the shore and the water becomes shallow, the bottom of the wave drags on the ocean floor which slows the bottom of the wave down but the top of the wave continues at the same speed. Eventually the top of the wave gets so far ahead of the bottom that it topples over forming a breaker.
slope