inferior part design and sometimes a incorrect spark gap or worn plug can overwork coil a larger gap can double the the voltage needed to jump the gap causing the coil to run hot. Ford is know for coils dropping like flys
The coil pack you changed for that cyl. may be burning build up in the cyl. and may clear soon, or the coil pack may have been shorted to hide the fact that cyl. was a oil burner, now its live and burning oil once again
Any of the following could of happened...... 1. The a/c clutch may have gotten very wet and its slipping. 2. The a/c coil could have shorted out. 3. The electrical connection on the coil may have a lot of water in it.
i recommend it to be grounded, but mine was not grounded for years and still worked. if you don't ground it it may cause damage to the coil tho
Well, I'd check the distributor cap and rotor first. If those seem to be in fair order, then you probably have a slipped/broken timing chain/belt. If the timing gear doesn't turn, no spark will be sent to the plugs. Also check all wires to and from the coil, especially the coil wire itself. Bad coil wires are not uncommon (no connection between coil and distributor = no spark). The coil itself may be faulty or power wires to it may be broken/loose/shorted.
Sounds like the coil plugs are faulty
A filter with high resistance to air flow, as in high efficency types, may cause the coil to freeze. This is dependant on the system air flow. A more restrictive filter will reduce the airflow and MAY cause the airflow to be insufficent and cause the coil to freeze. Note: coil freeze ups will cause compressor damage. An expensive repair. A knowlegeable service technician can check your system air flow and determin if a high efficency type will be an issue or not.
ab q654s64ws5gfchx If your question is the situation then the coil pack for that cyl should be replaced. You can buy the coils 2 different ways. First way is it comes complete with coil and boot attached (recommend). Second is it comes with just the coil and no boot. If on a budget this may be a better option and you can use the old spark plug boot from the failed coil and put it on the new coil if it's not damaged, torn, etc. Make sure to use dielectric grease in all the boots. This will ensure easy removal of the coil down the road. Good luck hope this helps.
inside the cap where the coil is it has a ground wire that is conected to the plug and the coil body if is not properly conected it may cause to bur the module often.
It depends on wwhat ind of car you have, On some it is on the coil and others it is inside the dist cap.
The magnetic plate in the distributor shaft, for the pick up coil, may be cracked.
It could, but your car may have a second thermostat for the heater coil for the interior of the vehicle. A service manual for your model may be available at your local library, or auto parts store. Also a problem directly with the heater coil itself could cause it. If your car is not overheating, it probably is not the water pump.
It means there was a fault detected in the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor electrical circuit. The cause may be a loose connection or broken or shorted wiring.