These calculations are not difficult, but you must know the load (including the floor weight) that will be carried. And the deflections that the appropriate building regulations allow.
Trusses you can run all the ducts and piping in the truss, makes a much neater and easier to finish basement. Engineered beams are stronger and can span wider distances.
The thickness of subfloor needed generally depends on how far apart your floor joists are located. In most cases, floor joists are 16" center-to-center and the most common thickness of subfloor is 3/4". Some homes will have 1/2". If your floor joists are farther apart, you will need correspondingly thicker subfloor to adequately support weight between the wider joists. Your city's building codes department will be able to specify what you need (some cities may have differing requirements).Another factor might be the kind of flooring you will install. For carpet, vinyl, laminate, wood and other non-rigid flooring types, the 1/2" or 3/4" will be adequate. For tile, the Tile Institute of America recommends no less than 3/4" subfloor on 16" centers floor joists - but with 1/4" backerboard installed on top of subfloor. See their website or contact your city codes department for specifics on a different span of joists.
Yes. It isn't desirable but can be done. However you need to understand enough about construction to know how to do it properly without causing damage to the joists and areas around them.
In a conventionally framed wood structure, you will find box/rim joists, floor joists, headers, braces, and some form of decking. There are many parts to a floor and more ways than one to build one. In timber framed building, you will find posts, braces, girts, joists, connectors, and other heavy timbers.
under the deck there will be a supporting beam, anything hanging out beyond this beam is the cantilever. some decks are fully cantilevered (they are attached to floor joists in the house and have no support posts/beams under them). these are usually no more than 4 feet long.
If the basement is "finished" then yes. If it's a typical basement with exposed joists, no.
Typically you would not put hardwood flooring directly over the joists. You should first put down a subfloor.
Floor joists in standard U.S. residential construction are supported on the outer walls by a foundation, typically cement block or concrete. Between outer walls, support may be necessary in the form of a support beam resting on posts which transfers load to a concrete pier.
Joists are support beams made of timber (wood), steel, or reinforced concrete. These beams support the floors of each level of a house or building, as well as the roof.You need to first identify any trimmer joists, those around staircases or chimneys. Second, and most importantly, you need to identify the "load bearing" joists. Third, remember you cannot remove joists without FIRST installing a temporary joist right beside the one you intend to remove. Consult the DIY article in Related Links.The main premise in joist replacement is to correctly re-support the house with new load-bearing joists, but to do so, you must support the load with temporary supports before putting in the permanent replacements. This is accomplished with jacks that support the house and temporary joists. I'm NOT an expert, BUT if I remember correctly, once you've supported the main load points, you insert a temporary joist beside the old or support it on a jack for every joist throughout the area in which you are working, (e.g. a basement). Then you replace the highest load-bearing joists first. Last, you'd replace the lowest-load-bearing joists. So it is a 3-step process: (1) insert temporary joist right beside the old (2) remove/replace the old with the permanent joist with a correct load-bearing wood/timber/steel/concrete (3) remove the temporary joist.If you are not a construction worker, be sure to consult an expert first to get information about how to calculate the "load" factors for the specific house. You may want to hire a contractor to do the job.NOTE: If you remove existing joists incorrectly, the risk is that the load in that area is higher than in other areas, so the structure could:be weakenedexert a "twisting" on the structure due to load forcesbe damaged or may collapse.Disclaimer: This answer is formulated from knowledge gained when working with a contractor during home construction, BUT not as a skilled worker. Therefore, please consult a professional for your safety and to hear a professional's advice / direction.
You're going to have add columns supporting the bottom and top of the stringers.Or you can double up the joists on either side of the top and thru-bolt them to stringers.You'll have to double or triple up the joists below the stringers (depending on the span of the joists)
2 x 12 Joists spaced 16" on center are good for any normal bathroom. Make sure you figure out wherte your drains will be so it is not on top of a joist.
It depends on how the deckis "engineered". Some could be built that are barely able to support their own weight. Others could be built strong enough to park your car on them. It depends on the type and dimension of wood used for the joists, the spacing between joists and the length of the span.
In a typical home, the surface flooring (such as wood, carpet or vinyl) rests on a subfloor, which rests on joists -- a series of closely spaced parallel beams that support the floor or ceiling loads. Joists are usually supported by a sill (a long horizontal timber that's the lowest part of the framework and rests on the foundation) or a girder (a large beam that's the main support of the building). When replacing rotted floor joists it's important to be sure the girder and sill are still intact.Typical costs:If only a few joists are rotted primarily at the bottom, they can be repaired using a process known as "sistering" -- after the rot is cleaned away and the timber treated to prevent more problems, a new joist is laid beside the old one and fastened to it. Total costs will depend on the extent of the damage and the ease of access to the joists (through a basement or crawlspace), but in general sistering averages $100 -$300 or more per joist, and could run $1,000 -$3,000or more to repair a tilted, wavy or bouncy floor under an average room.If the floor joists are extensively damaged, it will be necessary to support the house with jacks while the joists are removed and replaced. In many cases, the sill may also be rotted and need replacing. Costs can run $10,000 -$30,000 or more for a typical home, depending on its size, the extent of the extent of the damage and the ease of access to install jacks and replace the timbers. If the damage is limited to just one section of floor joists, the project could run $5,000-$10,000.What should be included:Joists carry the weight of walls, furniture, people, appliances and anything else placed on the flooring they support. Usually wooden floor joists are 2"x8", 2"x10" or 2"x12" timbers -- their size depends on their length, the amount of "load" they're designed to carry and the building codes in effect when the house was constructed. The Family Handyman explains how joists work.If there is sufficient access through a basement or crawlspace, floor joists can be repaired or replaced without significant impact on the rest of the house. However, if there is limited access, all furniture and appliances must be removed from the affected area and the flooring and subfloor torn out. The Family Handyman explains how to "sister" damaged joists and HammerZone.com describes using a jack to raise a slightly sagging floor.Additional costs:Floor joists can be damaged by boring insects such as termites or extended exposure to water. Before you replace damaged floor joists, you must exterminate the insects or improve the drainage and ventilation so the problem won't reoccur. Costs will vary widely depending on the extent and nature of the original problem.Typically floor joists are repaired or replaced working from below, in a basement or crawl space. But if there's limited access to the joists, it may be necessary to work from above, removing the flooring and subflooring to repair or replace any damaged floor joists. Costs will depend on the extent of the damage and the type of replacement subflooring and flooring chosen.
The rim or band joists in the basement are a bad place to insulate because it will cause the floor above to always be cold. Heat rises, and any heat in the basement from the furnace unit will rise and help warm the floor. Insulating will trap heat in the basement.
Yes. Rafters and flloor joists do not have to run the same direction.
If your house is wood framed with wood joists, the shaking may be caused by floor joists being too small. This will cause the floor to sink whenever a person walks across the room. Floor joists should be size by an experienced carpenter, architect, or engineer to prevent movement.Another cause of floor movement may be insufficient bracing between the floor joists. This will cause sagging and twisting of the joists.There are several solutions that require the skills carpenter. New joists can be added beside the existing joists to strengthen the floor. Another option is to add one or more beams and columns in the room below the floor. Or blocking can be added between existing joists to add support.
Try a foaming machine. It sprays an dense foam between the walls