This website might be a good solution: www.baseboardheatercovers.com
I'm not sure if they will work on both hot water and electric baseboard heaters.
To calculate the ohm reading of a 4500-watt baseboard heater, you would need to know the voltage it operates at. You can use the formula Ohms = (Voltage x Voltage) / Watts to find the resistance in ohms. For example, if the heater operates at 240 volts, the ohm reading would be approximately 12.8 ohms.
There are two different types of thermostats for electric baseboard heaters. Line voltage and low voltage. Connection to a line stat used the source voltage from the distribution panel and operates like a switch. Because the baseboard heater usually is 240 volts the stat breaks both hot inputs. The stat output goes to the baseboard heater. When the stat calls for heat its internal switch closes and applied the 240 volt to the heater. On the side of the stat will be a voltage and current rating that the stat must operate within. The other type of thermostat is used in low voltage installations. Instead of the switch being in the wall like a line stat, there is a low voltage relay mounted in the baseboard heater itself. This relays coil is usually 24 volts AC. An external 24 volt transformer is needed to supply a voltage to this coil. This 24 volt supply is first taken to the low volt stat and an internal low voltage switch is used to energise the coil of the relay in the baseboard heater. The difference between the two stats is very noticeable in that the line stat is very heavily built with strong termination points. The 24 volt stat is very flimsy in comparison as the current it has to handle is only the relay coils current.
Wiring a baseboard is no different than wiring a plug or light. A simple picture in your mind is this. You have to imagine yourself an electron travelling from the panel along the red wire to the thermostat, thermostat to the heater, heater back to the panel. With that read on. I find making a sketch helpful sometimes if the possible connection become unruly. I will not go into electric panel connection since a licensed electrician should do that. Too much juice there for the faint of heart. a) The wire type is different (red jacket (red & black conductors) instead of basic white (black and white conductors)). b) The breaker in the panel is of the 240v variety (twice as thick as the normal 120v variety). b) Most heating "circuits" are of the 20A variety. What that means is that the 20A breaker, combined with 240V, will allow 4800w (20A x 240v) peak. Rule of thumb is to use 80-85% of allowable wattage. So, that means you can feed up to 4000w of baseboards on 1 20A circuit. This will avoid a breaker jump if they fire full-blast at the same time. This scenario appaers in cottages most often. You are away, come up for the weekend and crank them all up at the same time. Go watch the meter when you do this. You can cut wood at the speed it spins. c) You will have a black, a red, bare ground wire entering the baseboard. Red goes to red, black goes to black, bare copper to frame (usally there is a green colored screw). That's your ground. VERY IMPORTANT to ground the unit. 240v kills real quick. BEFORE YOU MAKE THE CONNECTIONS READ FURTHER FOR THERMOSTAT INSTALLATION Here is where the fun starts: a) If you have a baseboard thermostat, then follow instructions in the thermostat package (which there usually is). The source wiring is as described above. b) If you choose to install a wall mounted thermostat, its a little different for 2 reasons. - If the source wire from the panel comes to the thermostat, then on to the heater you need to wire as follows: [AT THE WALL THERMOSTAT] The black wires from the source and one to the heater are wired together. You are now left with a red from each wire. You wire the thermostats wires to each of the red wires. Bare wires together & to box [AT THE BASEBOARD] ]The wiring at the baseboard is as described above (red to one side, black to the other side, bare to the casing) - If the wire from the electrical panel and the wire from thermostat meet at the heater, different scenario. [AT THE WALL THERMOSTAT] The Thermostat wires are wired to the red & black, at the thermosat. [AT THE BASEBOARD] At the heater connect the reds from the thermostat and source together. Connect the remaining blacks to either side of the basebaord. The bare wires are connected together & to the baseboard casing.
The amount of electric baseboard heat needed for a house depends on factors like the size of the house, insulation, climate, and personal preferences for room temperatures. A general estimate is that you need 10 watts per square foot, but it's best to consult with an HVAC professional to determine the right amount for your specific needs.
Answer1 kW is 3,413 BTUs. Therefore, 1500 Watts = 1.5 kW and 1.5 kW x 3413 BTU/kW = 3 413 * 1.5 = 5 119.5 BTUs per hr for a 1500 Watt heaterwhat is the electric cost/
I always try to find a spray enamel as close as possible to moulding.
I need some heating in my kitchen but don't have room for a radiator or a wall heater. I have been told I could have electric baseboard heaters fitted but I don't know how effective they are. What web sites could I look at to find out about them?
To calculate the ohm reading of a 4500-watt baseboard heater, you would need to know the voltage it operates at. You can use the formula Ohms = (Voltage x Voltage) / Watts to find the resistance in ohms. For example, if the heater operates at 240 volts, the ohm reading would be approximately 12.8 ohms.
any hvac supply store (Grainger) ask for a line voltage stat, they have many styles but they are all the basic same
Most plumbing suppliers
There are two different types of thermostats for electric baseboard heaters. Line voltage and low voltage. Connection to a line stat used the source voltage from the distribution panel and operates like a switch. Because the baseboard heater usually is 240 volts the stat breaks both hot inputs. The stat output goes to the baseboard heater. When the stat calls for heat its internal switch closes and applied the 240 volt to the heater. On the side of the stat will be a voltage and current rating that the stat must operate within. The other type of thermostat is used in low voltage installations. Instead of the switch being in the wall like a line stat, there is a low voltage relay mounted in the baseboard heater itself. This relays coil is usually 24 volts AC. An external 24 volt transformer is needed to supply a voltage to this coil. This 24 volt supply is first taken to the low volt stat and an internal low voltage switch is used to energise the coil of the relay in the baseboard heater. The difference between the two stats is very noticeable in that the line stat is very heavily built with strong termination points. The 24 volt stat is very flimsy in comparison as the current it has to handle is only the relay coils current.
If you're in the US contact Jim at Electra Save in Bloomsburg, PA (570) 387-0684 he is the only person I know who can find parts for those heaters.
If it is windy outside, you may be getting just enough of a breeze to blow out the pilot light -even though the covers are shut. My heater is in the garage, and even w/ the garage door shut and the covers on the heater shut, very windy weather can still cause enough of a draft to blow out the pilot. You could try to find something to block drafts around the heater such as a hot water heater blanket.
Like many items you can find a good selection of patio heater covers on Amazon. There are also some on eBay. Alternatively you can also have a look in your local camping and gardening store.
Consumerreports.com is a research website that put reviews and ratings on a different variety of consumer products. I would recommend checking this out for information on baseboard heaters.
We have been looking for the cheapest price on pool covers? Do you know where the cheapest place to find pool covers is?
We are looking at replacing the water heater because it is old. Where can a person find reviews on the best water heater to purchase?