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If you turn the wheels all the way to the right or left, you can see a bar or rod connecting the wheel to the car (not the main axle that the wheel is connected to which is kind of flat and looks like pressed metal). The rod is visible if you are looking behind the wheel. Follow that rod to the inside of the wheel and you should feel the grease fitting. Make sure you are not trying to grease the back of the break caliper that your break pads are connected to. That's a bleeder valve for your break system. You should feel a rubbery balloon that is kind of firm under the grease fitting. There is one fitting for each front tire. The fittings for the rest of the car are sealed and cannot be greased. These things are a pain to get to and even harder to get a standard grease gun on, especially if the car is sitting on the ground. --------------------------------------- Anywhere on a moving, rotating, load-bearing or sliding assembly where a grease-fitting is located would be classified as a lubrication point. Typically, such points include ball joints, tie-rod ends, idler arms, clutch relay pivots, universal joints, etc.; but, on the vehicle you mention, the only point I listed here which applies should be the outer tie-rod ends, if they have grease fittings. Some do not. As a matter of routine service, other points which require periodic lubrication and are often overlooked include door hinges, hood hinges, hood latch, door striker, door latches, and the trunk lock. These are often treated with a spray lubricant. Additionally, that "lock de-icer and lubricant" that comes in a small tube is great stuff to use proactively to head-off problems in the winter. Hope it helps. jb

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โˆ™ 2009-01-22 00:12:02
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Q: Where is the chassis lubrication point on a 2003 cavalier?
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