Those should both be hot (black) wires to two separate circuits. Electricity flows into the breaker from the bar that they snap onto and the grounds (white and bare) all go to one grounding bar on the side of the box. If you don't know what you're doing inside the box, please put the cover back on and call someone who does know.
SOUNDS LIKE A RELAY.THE EASIEST WAY TO CHECK IS TO POP THE HOOD,LOCATE THE RELAYS,AND IF THERE NOT MARKED,CHECK TO MAKE SURE THERE THE SAME AMPERAGE[MARKED THE SAME ON TOP], AND JUST START SWITCHING THEM AROUND.MAKE SURE YOUR KEY IS OFF BETWEEN SWITCHES.
The earth wire, striped green and yellow, is connected to the terminal marked E; this should be the longest of the three wires so that it is the last to become detached if the cable is strained.The live wire (brown) is connected to the terminal marked L.The neutral wire (blue) is connected to the terminal marked N.
If you have circuit breakers there is a double breaker at the top of the row of breakers marked Main. Flip that one and it shuts the house off. Older houses with fuses have a pull out fuse with two long round fuses in a holder. Pull the holder out and everything is dead. There should be two of these holders in the fuse box. One is the main and the other will be for a stove. The main will be marked Main.
Please follow map enclosed with answer. Follow the light blue arrows, and the switches are marked in red.
Wire a starter.....There are 3 terminals on the solenoid.... 2 Big and 1 little....2 of them are marked on the solenoid (S) and (M) the other may be marked (B)...The (B) is connected to the battery(it's a big terminal) The (S) is a small terminal that is connected to the switch(it will have a small wire)(probably purple) and the (M) terminal will be connected to the starter itself with a short braided wire....
The load current is greater that the amperage of the breaker. Add up everything that is plugged into the circuit. If the total is greater that the number marked on the handle of the breaker unplug some of the equipment.
There isn't one. The heavy positive cable goes directly to the starter. The solenoid is what transfers the heavy amperage to the starter. The wire from the ignition goes to the connector marked s.
Red wire is Positive in a car battery. If they are not color coded, find which one is not connected to the chassis and this will be positive.
Lexington, or Concord. The two conflicts are connected and are often listed together.
The simplest synchronous motor has two leads which must be connected to the live and neutral of the correct supply voltage as marked on the motor.
If a circuit existed where a wire could be made smaller AS the current from a defined source was applied to a defined user then in terms of amperage there would be little change in that parameter. In terms of the Power dissipated as heat through the electrical resistance of the wire then the wire would exhibit a marked increase in the heat expended (Power -watts= amperage- I x voltage -E) . With this in mind and using the same formula as noted the increase in P can only be attributed to an increase in E .To maintain the amperage -I. In short the smaller the wire the greater the voltage must be to maintain a set unit of amperage. In real world projects however the user raises wire size and does not modify voltage to maintain the amperage capacity. This is covered by the idea of calculation of voltage drop in a conductor based on its cross sectional area. From your question let me remind you that amperage is a function of usage and although stated on many devices does not exist until a circuit is closed ..Have a good one Edesigner.
The negative battery terminal is marked with an minus (-) sign on the battery next to the post. It is the one with the black cable connected to it.
The breaker will trip at the amperage notated on the breaker. If it's 100A...it will trip at or around 100A. It does not matter if that breaker is physically tied to another 100A breaker. To understand this, imagine that you remove the mechanical tie from the two-pole breaker. Now you just have two 100A breakers. In actuality, you always had two 100A breakers. The mechanical tie does not change that. If you then powered two, separate 120 volt devices from the two breakers, each breaker would allow 100 amperes to pass to each of the devices before tripping. So why are they tied together? That is done when the two-pole breaker is to be used to power a 240 volt circuit. In AC current, electricity flows in both directions. In a 120 volt circuit, it flows "out" toward the device via the hot (generally the black wire) and "back" via the neutral (generally the white wire). Then the cycle reverses. It does this 60 times per second (60Hz). The amperage in the hot and neutral wires are the same (in the perfect world). Only the hot wire is connected to the breaker. In a 240 volt circuit, there is no neutral wire. You are using two "legs" of 120 volts each that are 180 degrees out of phase with each other. In other words, as leg 1 is flowing "out", leg 2 is flowing "back". Because they are out of phase, the potential difference is twice the voltage of each line or 240 volts. The current flows out and back at the same 60 Hz but this time via the two hot wires (generally black and red). Each of these hot wires are connected to the two terminals of the two-pole breaker. Due to mechanical tolerances, one breaker will most likely trip before the other. Therefore, if the rated current, (100 amps), is exceeded on either breaker, that breaker will trip and the other breaker will trip via the mechanical tie. This ensures that all power to the outlet is disconnected. If you removed the tie and only one breaker tripped, there would still be 120 volts connected to the outlet. In summary, each leg of a single, double (2 phase) or triple (3 phase) breaker is capable of allowing the amount of current denoted on the breaker. The connected circuit, regardless of voltage is protected from exceeding that amperage.
There are 3 switches you need to turn on with your train whistle. You should've received a letter from the guy you saved from the pirates. He numbered 3 places on a map. Those are the locations of the swithces. The 1st switch is up on one of those tall rocks located on the island marked #1 on the map the guy gave you. Blow your train whistle to activate the switches in order.
Distance was marked on Roman roads by milestones.Distance was marked on Roman roads by milestones.Distance was marked on Roman roads by milestones.Distance was marked on Roman roads by milestones.Distance was marked on Roman roads by milestones.Distance was marked on Roman roads by milestones.Distance was marked on Roman roads by milestones.Distance was marked on Roman roads by milestones.Distance was marked on Roman roads by milestones.
Yes, it can be (marked deck, marked man).The word marked is the past tense and past participle of the verb "to mark."
It is probably in the fuse enclosure on the far left inside portion of the dash. You will probably have to go through the owners manual to see which circuit it is on. The fuses are marked by amperage and I believe by number. Good luck.
In the left side of the glove box there is a hinged cover, tilt it down and the correct fuse will be 4th from the top on the last column. The socket is marked HVAC. There are also some breakers and relays behind the dash below the glove box.
Should be under the hood, right hand side in the electrical enclosure with other switches and relays. Take the cover off and the diagram on the inside tells you which is which. In our 2000, the headlight relay is marked HEAD.
yes, it will fill the hole in the panel if you have no blank covers, if you want to be sure it is completely inert, disconnect the power lead and cap it.
celery is marked fresh