Plaster dust is a result of a chemical reaction with the water and the plaster and its ingredients. Plaster dust, if not treated soon after the pool is filled, especially so in dark or tinted pools, will become part of the pool surface. In black pools this will leave a nearly white or very light color to the black surface. There are about two or three methods to address this problem. As a rule, the builder or contractor will hire a pool service tech to do a "start-up" on their newly finished pools. Thus relieving the homeowner of the task to which he is not qualified to tackle. k
One of the differences between plaster and fiberglass pools is that fiberglass stays smooth. Plaster can become rough. Another difference is that unlike plaster, fiberglass does not chip, and crack.
If you sand plaster, there will be dust, that is unavoidable. If you don't want to inhale the dust, you can wear a face mask.
No Plaster of Paris is too soft and too porous to be useful in any thing to do with a swimming pool.
Yes you can (re-plaster) There should be a company in your area that does the plaster for pools when they are built and also re-plaster as they get older. Your Pool supplier should be able to suggest who may be the most reliable. yes,
Yes you can (re-plaster) There should be a company in your area that does the plaster for pools when they are built and also re-plaster as they get older. Your Pool supplier should be able to suggest who may be the most reliable. yes,
Venetian plaster is a finish applied to walls and ceilings. It consists of plaster mixed with marble dust and can be purchased at many good hardware stores including places like Home Depot.
Yes very dangerous, can contain lead and asbestos.
Plaster itself is not poisonous. Some people are allergic to it but generally you will only have a reaction to it if you consume it. Plaster of Paris may cause breathing difficulties if inhaled. Wall plaster is harmless once it is painted and/or covered, and contact with it before that is fine. Painted wall plaster is safer as it does not release dust.
There is a pigment that is found in rock and gravel businesses that is added to the plaster mix under certain formula measurements. k
The black (burn) marks show up on Gray plaster pools. White plaster pools will show up as a yellow or rust color. Remove the tabs and put them in a proper floating devise, the marks will go away in time. Try using wet and dry sand paper on the burn marks to reduce their visibility and roughened plaster.. additionally, tablets of any size should NEVER be placed or tossed into the pool or skimmer. K
It really depends on the initial balance of the fill water and the surface of the pool and the type of sanitizer system being used. Depending on the fill water you might have to initially adjust pH, Total Alkalinity and (for plaster and fiberglass pools) add calcium if it is low--calcium is a non issue for vinyl pools). If there are metals in the water (from well water or local conditions) then a metal sequestrant will be needed initially and as a regular maintenance chemical. Also, many new plaster startups require the use of a metal sequestrant for the first year to maintain the warranty and some startup procedures for plaster might require larger amounts of some pool chemicals for the first weeks to months (such as acid startup for exposed aggregate pools and bicarbonate startup for plaster pools.) If chlorine or a salt water system is being used then CYA (stabilizer ) will be needed, as will a chlorine source. (Salt pools need to have their chlorine level brought up to the proper level before the salt system is turned on by the addition of a chlorine source such as liquid chlorine or bleach.) If it is a salt pool then salt will be needed once the plaster has started curing (Salt can be added immediately in fiberglass and vinyl pools). If the pool is a bromine pool or a biguanide/peroxide pool then the appropriate sanitizers/oxidizers will be needed. Your first step would be to test the fill water and adjust pH, TA, and CH if needed, add any other needed chemicals (such as metal sequestrants) then add the appropriate amount of CYA if it is a chlorine pool (and the appropriate amount of salt if it is a salt pool and the plaster has cured for a month or immediately for vinyl and fiberglass) , and then add the appropriate sanitizer/oxidizer (chlorine, bromine, or biguanide/peroxide). If the builder has specific instructions for pool startup and plaster curing then be sure to follow them! The chemical requirements for a plaster pool are going to be different for the first year as the plaster cures. Typically, the amount of acid needed is much higher as the plaster is curing.
The finish plaster is normally white all the way through. It sounds like you are dealing with a pool that has been replastered by the method of putting a "brown coat"/"scratch coat" (the gray plaster you noted) over the original finish plaster surface, and a new finish coat of white plaster on top of that. The scratch coat more like a thin concrete than plaster (doesn't have the white marble dust in it) and is used to get a better bond to the old surface.