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I've had a similar problem for quite some time. I've given it a tune up, a new carb, oil change, new alternater, starter, radiator, and it's got a full tank. I'm thinking maybe it's the fuel filter. It's something that I know has been over looked -- I actually got the idea yesterday when it died in front of a Ford dealership -- one of the mechanics helped me push the car out of an intersection and said that was more than likely the problem. *Of course i was told maybe it was time to switch over to the ford family -- he laughed as i gave him the middle finger.

  • This problem of course maybe different from yours but, i figure I'd try to give you another option. I'm not a mechanic but, it's only like a $10 part, so i figure what the hell, why not. It should be located behind your carb. I'm taking it to the shop today to have a couple other things checked out -- if this isn't the problem, then I may end up dumping the car at the end of the month when the tags expire; however, I'll write a response as to what the resluts to this investigation. I hope this helps -- good

luck.

* * *

All right. So the fuel filter was not the answer. When getting your new carb installed a new fuel filter was already added -- so at this point and time, one should not be needed. The problem here is engine pressure -- or at least in my case -- not to mention filthy valves.

They put some kind of 3 part cleaner in my car -- all 3 came in the same box -- the box was green -- i didn't get the name though. 1 bottle went in my fuel tank, another in the motor (oil), and the other in my break booster -- it needed some kind of vaccume (the last bottle needed what looked like some kind of Iv to help regulate how much of the 3rd liquid came out at a time --> if you can find this Iv tool, you can do this yourself). The guys at the shop said it costs about $25 --> It's some kind of flushing agent --> I recommend doing this yourself --> they'll charge you about $100 at the shop, unless of course you know the dude. But, that pretty much did the job on my car -- just cleaning it out -- so definitely try that first. The 2nd part, is vacuume leaks. Carburated cars are awesome but, they're biggest draw back is they're one big vacuume leak. Check to make sure all your tubes are securely fastened or if some need to be changed. You can check this by simply spraying some carb cleaner all around your carb while your car is running. If you hear a change in your throttle, you have a leak.

You may also need to get your carb adjusted -- you need to do this at the very least, seasonally or before/after road trips. It makes a huge difference in proformance --> it just depends on your carb and of course how you're driving your vehicle.

Finally, be sure to check your car for exhaust and fuel leaks. This apparently will mess up you pressure and you're carbs proformance -- would've figured? It's only your carbs primary job to regulate fuel and air flow -- i felt kind of dumb after being told that -- I'm leaking both and oil a well. However, this makes me wonder if my rediculous thought was so silly after all? Imagine your car as a smoker for a moment -- and it's lungs are the o2 sensors. Now after many years of work -- 20 to be exact -- you don't honestly think that there's no build up or perhaps it's some how making it difficult for air to flow properly -- making it hard for your car to breath? They're robbing you of horse power as is. It's just something to think about. You can take them out when you car classifies as an antique, or if you know the dude at the shop who does your emmissions testing -- everyone has a price. lol... Of course, not to rule out the environment on this one, you could always get new ones -- but, from what I've seen, that's a really expensive repair. Once again, i hope this helps. That rides one bad MF and it would be a shame to see it bite the dust -- needless to say, I've decided to renew the tags on mine!! Good luck, and let me know how it turns out. I figure the only way a problem like this is gonna get solved is through trial and error.

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