First, get the circuits around the house tested to make sure it's happening everywhere.
You should call the power company to check the connections where your electrical service enters your house. (Meter base and breaker panel). It could be a loose connection. Do not check this yourself without getting it approved by the power company, and only if the service has been disconnected at the pole.
Removing their meter seal yourself can result in disconnection of service, fees, and criminal prosecution for theft of service. Also, it's much safer to let them check it, since they are qualified professionals.
The amperages in a service conductor can burn you to death if they are accidentally shorted, even momentarily. Electric arc flash can reach 30,000 degrees F.
Call the utility company to check the supply to the house. If it is ok to the meter base and breaker panel, your house wiring is to blame
Ask the utility company to feel the transformer wiring connections. They can be extremely hot because of corrosion and this will cause flickering power sometimes.
Check the circuit breakers.
I had a friend who's lights were flickering. He had several people look into it. Electrician, Utility etc. No luck. We spent some time turning off breakers and we came to the realization that the circuit breaker's contact was bad. Replaced the breaker and voila no flicker.
Troubleshooting is the height of the electrician's art.
The only reason there is "not enough voltage" somewhere is because there is a partially open connection providing resistance and a location to allow a voltage drop [bad splice, bad switch, bad breaker, broken wire, burned splice, ...].
It is the knowledge of how electricity works, and of the methods and materials used to create a functional wiring system, that enables a skilled troubleshooter to locate the problem and repair it.
Where should the "voltage" be, and how does it get there?
When you understand that, you will understand what is keeping it from getting where it should be...
As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
Service Voltage fluctuation may be a Power Quality problem for your electric utility to review and correct. There are some items for you to go over and help narrow the source of the anomaly. First take the middle of the road, average service composition; it is a 200 Amp, 240 Volt, 3-Wire service. Your service may not fit this description to a tee for the following reasons:
As already suggested, find out if the problem is in one circuit (breaker), the service panel, or the service drop.
Why would you want to do that -where would you obtain a lower voltage supply suitable for supplying a residence.
Electrical connection issue.
Because the higher voltage would be dangerous domestically.
A short to voltage is when a wire that should not have battery voltage has battery voltage. This would happen if a wire had rubbed through another wire. The other cause would be an electrical component failing and sending voltage down a wire that it shouldn't. NOTE: Shorts to voltage are very uncommon. I specialize in electrical automotive repair, and I can not even recall one time I have seen a short to voltage.
the voltage regulator
You would get a shock if you provided a path to ground.
Because, a factory is generally bigger then a house so it would fit in more things that need voltage. A general factory would need 15,000 v where as a house would need 230 v
A resistor changes the voltage and the amperage, which can be needed in components
Check the battery voltage on your tester. The voltage on the panel is the same throughout the whole electrical system.
Assuming you normal house voltage is 120 volts, sounds like something is wired wrong. If you had the house (or part of it) running on generator and then took some voltage readings, you may have damaged some of the items in the house already.
because the circuit has to many outlets on it
I dont know exactly the voltage and amperage its rated to handle, but for a normal 120 volt circuit like you would find in your house it is enough to insulate it. That's why its often called electrical tape. It would be ill advised though to only use electrical tape to cover up bare wiring.
A good example of an electrical conductor would be an electrical wire. These conductors are through your residence and is what carries the voltage to your appliances. Most types of metal: copper, silver, aluminium, etc, are good examples of electrical conductors.
It is a measure of electrical power. It is Voltage multiplied by Amps. All electrical applicances should give it's wattage or at least it's voltage and Amps so you can work out the wattage. It should be noted that that figure is the maximum that appliance would use.
If you got shocked by any type of electrical current it would certainly knock you off the wire .
You will have to run wires from your electric box in your house, I would suggest barring these wires.
voltage regulator, sometimes its in the alternators, advance auto parts doesn't replace them in remanufactored ones.
ohm's law ..... E = I x R but the facts are that most of the time the voltage (E) is fixed so I = E / R so the higher the resistance, the lower the current. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_resistance A resistance resist the current to flow and makes the current lower in an electrical circuit. The voltage in an electrical circuit is given from the source (battery etc) and will not be higer by adding a resistance, but in the part of the electrical circuit where you put the resistance the voltage could be higer (and it would then be lower other parts)
I am not aware of such a term. I think a better description of electrical resistance would be current resistance since the current flow is impeded by resistance, not the voltage. Voltage by definition is not a flow and cannot be impeded in the sense that current can.
Answer for USA, Canada and countries running a 60 Hertz supply service.A good way to check the continuity of a ground wire in the electrical system is to measure the voltage from the "hot" wire to ground. This voltage should read the same as what you would read from "hot" to neutral. The reasoning for this is because the neutral and the ground are bonded together at the distribution panel main breaker enclosure. If the neutral was not connected you would either not get a voltage reading at all or you would get a reading of a lower voltage that you would expect due to resistance in the circuit.
If domestic electrical wiring were one big series loop in a house, instead ofone big parallel network, then ...-- Every outlet in the house would need something plugged into it and turned on.If any one device in the house were turned off or unplugged, every device in thehouse would lose power.-- That means that every light would have to stay on, the refrigerator, air conditioner,and stove would have to run all the time, and every radio and TV would need to playall the time.-- If any one device in the house failed ... like a burned out light bulb ... everydevice in the house would lose power, and there would be no easy way to tellwhich one failed. You would have to go around the house replacing each device,one at a time, before you found one that would restore power to everything inthe house when it was replaced.-- The voltage from the meter is typically 117 volts AC in the US and Canada,and all of the electrical devices in your house are designed to operate with117 volts of AC. But if everything in the house were in series, then the 117 voltswould divide among all of them. Some would get more of it, some would get lessof it, but when you added up the voltage going to every device in the house, itwould all add up to 117 volts.-- In a series arrangement, the devices that need the most power, like thefreezer, the air conditioner, and the electric stove, would get the least voltage,and dissipate the least power. Those devices that need the least power, likenight-lights and electric clocks, would get the most voltage, dissipate the mostpower, and either burn out or explode within seconds.And that's why I personally prefer parallel wiring in my house if I can get it.
Yes, dry leather has an electrical resistance of around 100kOhm, enough to protect from residential voltage, but much less than what you would want for distribution voltage. However, the resistance of leather falls dramatically (up to 95%) when damp, so rubber gloves are always required when working around high voltage.
Electrical power is measured in Watts (Unit) represented by 'W' (Symbol).To calculate it, you multiply the supply voltage by the current taken in by the device/equipment/machine you're operating.Anyway, let's say you had a heater which had a current of 16 Amps and took a single-phase supply voltage of 230V (a normal house supply):To get power, you would write the following formula:W = V x IWhich translates as:Power = Voltage x Current [SYMBOL - I and UNIT - Amps (A) ]You would then calculate:W = 230 Volts x 16 Amps = 3680 Watts [or 3.68 Kilowatts]You have now established that your heater takes in3680 Watts of electrical power.
Yes, Singapore uses exactly the same electrical voltage and plugs as the UK, so you can bring your British appliances and use them just as you would at home.
voltage fluctuation affects an electrical system by infiltrating the conductor (such as copper), and supporting an insulator (like rubber,cotton,magnetic transfer). This would cause the system to fail due to the electrical capabillities of an isulator which are discreetly low.AnswerVoltage fluctuations are quite normal in electricity supply systems. All quoted voltages are 'nominal voltages' -i.e. 'named' voltages, which are allowed to vary within specified limits. For example, the low-voltage single-phase supply voltage in the UK has a nominal voltage of 230 V, but is allowed to vary between +10% and -6% of this value.