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If what you term as a "magnetic switch" is an electrical contactor, then the answer is yes.A couple things to keep in mind. I presume the 125 volts mentioned is the coil voltage of the contactor.The switched voltages and amperage or horsepower allowed by the contactor is on the contactor's nameplate. This is the maximum voltage that can be applied to the contactor which includes 12 volts.The amperage of the 12 volt device is not mentioned and this should not exceed the maximum allowed current of the lowest voltage rating of the contactor. This is especially true if the 12 volts is Direct Current. An example of this could be a starter on a car. When the starter starts to crank it could be in the neighbourhood of 300 amps DC. As you can see this would fry the contacts of a normal AC rated contactor.
Change the trailer light bulbs to 24 volts and supply a 24 volt source to power them, in that order.
There are special contactor that are made to switch lighting loads. These relays and not wattage rated but amperage rated. Use the following formula with the voltage that you are going to use to find the size of contactor that you need. I = W/E, Amps = Watts/Volts.
you have a magic power-generating CB find out how it works and you should make a fortune.
Use a step-up transformer from 110 volts to 220 volts. Try getting one at Home Depot or SEARS.
24 volts should engage the contactor and most likely let the 220 volts flow through.
A definite purpose contactor is designed (and rated) for a specific load. So a lighting contactor is one example of a definite purpose contactor. A motor starter contactor is another example. So, a lighting contactor is a definite purpose contactor, but a definite purpose contactor is not necessarily a lighting contactor (it might be a motor starter, for instance).
One way in achieving this can be getting a 140 watt solar system. The reason behind this is they take both 12 volts and 24 volts.
the buzzing is probably your contactor. there are two 18 gauge wires going to your contactor coil the two wires will follow your line set out of your house and into AC to the contactor coil. usually red and white. or blue and yellow. make sure you have 24 volts with your volt meter (T-stat must be calling for cool). make sure you have 240 volts going into line side of contactor(L1 L2). there should be a run capacitor or two. usually a silver duel capacitor it will be round. is it mushroomed at the top? do you have voltage on both sides of contactor and 24 volts to contactor coil when thermostat is calling for cool?. and no voltage at capacitor or it looks mushroomed, you have a bad capacitor. the best way to test one is with a mircrofared tester. less then10 bucks to replace it will have a number ie. 35/5 uf if it is a duel. make sure you get the same one. if you don't have 24 volts to contactor coil or if contactor isn't pulled in. your problem is in the t-stat or funace. if you don't have 240 volts going into line side of contactor you have a tripped breaker or blowen fuse somewhere, or high pressure cutout needs to be reset due to dirty condenser.(usually only on Rheems) if you have 240 at line side L1 L2 and 24 to the contact coil but no 240 on T1 T2 of contactor you have a bad contactor which i would replace anyways since it sounds like it's buzzing. they are about 10 bucks too. let me know if this helped I'm pretty sure it's your capacitor. the capacitor if it's a duel will have three different terminal circles. C, fan, and Herm. C is for common it goes to the common wire on the contactor either a red or yellow wire. fan uses the wire coming from the fan and herm uses the wire coming from the compressor.
a contactor is generally looks like a small box connected to an electric circuit. it is what controls electricity flow to a motor. in the middle is normally a way to push in the contactor to manually check to see if either the motor works or if you have electricity.
The coil can be operated by taking one leg of the 240 volts from the top of the contactor and connecting it to one terminal of the coil. Take the other leg of the 240 volts from the top of the contactor and connect it to the device used to turn the contactor off and on. From this switching device take the switched wire and connect it to the other terminal on the contactor's coil. Now when the switching device is activated the contactor will open and close.Before you do any work yourself,on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energizedIF YOU ARE NOT REALLY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
If what you term as a "magnetic switch" is an electrical contactor, then the answer is yes.A couple things to keep in mind. I presume the 125 volts mentioned is the coil voltage of the contactor.The switched voltages and amperage or horsepower allowed by the contactor is on the contactor's nameplate. This is the maximum voltage that can be applied to the contactor which includes 12 volts.The amperage of the 12 volt device is not mentioned and this should not exceed the maximum allowed current of the lowest voltage rating of the contactor. This is especially true if the 12 volts is Direct Current. An example of this could be a starter on a car. When the starter starts to crank it could be in the neighbourhood of 300 amps DC. As you can see this would fry the contacts of a normal AC rated contactor.
36 is to 12 as 18 is to 24.
General Aviation typically uses 24 volts. Even the Boeing 777 uses 24 volts while the newer 787 is 32 volts.
"0" zero unless there is current flow. Watts = Amps x Volts.
Connect two 12 volt batteries in series and you will have 24 volts.
12 volt standard, 24 volt optional.