Black is Hot and White is Neutral and there should also be a bare ground wire. One black/white/bare cable is supply for receptacle and the other is connected in parallel and goes to another outlet.
You need your ceiling fixture connected to one of the wires coming into the receptacle box, Black to Black, White to White and Bare to Bare. However, assume you want to be able to switch the ceiling light with a wall switch unless there is to be a pull chain on ceiling light.
To connect switch run a new wired from the receptacle to a switch and run a wire from switch to ceiling fixture. At original outlet connect as described above. At switch connect White wires together with a wirenut, then do the same for the bare wires. Connect Black wire going to ceiling to one side or switch and Black wire coming from original receptacle to other side of switch.
A switched duplex receptacle can be wired two ways. If both duplexes are to be switched then the receptacle is wired the same as any light fixture. The black wire from the bottom of the existing switch goes to the brass screw on the receptacle that is to be switched. The white wire terminates on the neutral silver coloured screw. If you want just half of the duplex receptacle to be switched then the tie bar between the two brass screws on the receptacle has to be removed. Just wiggle it until it breaks free. Usually on a half switched receptacle the top half is switched and the bottom half remains a normal connection. After removing the tie bar, the top half of the receptacle is wired the same, as the description above, for a full duplex switched receptacle. Questions use the discuss question page.
The supply black (Hot) wire from the outlet feeds each switch (attach two pigtail black wires from the outlet black wire). The other side of each switch goes to the load. The three white wires (Neutral) get connected together (1 from outlet and 1 from each load). The three bare wires (ground) also are connected together.
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized
IF YOU ARE NOT REALLY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
jump the wires from one to another
The bare copper wire is a ground wire. if your old electrical system only has black and white, then you don't have a ground wire to hook the new fixture's ground to. Safest bet is to run a ground wire to that junction box (or hire an electrician to do that). If the box in the ceiling (I'm assuming its a ceiling fixture) is metal, the home's electrical system ground wire may be attached to the metal box itself. If that's the case, you simply need to attach your new fixture's ground wire (the bare copper one) to the metal box. If in doubt -- have an electrician look at it.
There has to be more to this question for a good answer. For the most part a light switch has two contacts, with a wire at each one. One live wire and another going to the light itself. There is also a neutral wire return (from the light to the electrical panel). There is only one live wire in any electrical circuit. [Please, don't flame me with examples of multiple electrical sources in circuitry. We're talking about home lighting.] If somehow you shorted the live wire from the switch to the electrical box (ground) or to another wire in the box, it was only momentary and you can just proceed with replacing the switch. It's a good idea to turn off the power first.
The answer depends on what type of access you have to the junction box. The wire external to the box may have some slack that can be brought into the box. If everything is tight you will probably have to install one or more additional junction boxes or rerun wire from electric panel. As an example assume that the short wire has no external slack, but you can install a new junction box near the other box and in the path of the short wire. 1. Pull the short wire from existing junction box. 2. Install new box in path of short wire so more slack will be available in the additional junction box; and pull wire into new box. 3. Run a wire of the same size from new to old box and re-splice any connections for original short wire or new connections; and connect this new wire to the original short wire in the new box. Make sure you follow all code requirements for your locale.
If you live in a country which uses them, just look at a wall outlet in your apartment or house! But, if you live elsewhere, then take a look at the Related Questions and Related Links shown below. A single phase 120V duplex outlet (two "separate"receptacles) has a smaller prong/blade (for the black hot wire), a larger blade (for the neutral, a white wire) and of course the semi-circular or "tunnel" ground hole (for the green wire to the wall box) that makes up the outlet.120V outlets come in two sizes for normal residential 15A & sometimes 20A. Typically you will see a 15A receptacle. You can go to a Home Depot or Lowes (or any electrical hardware store) and physically look at one closeup.
The wire will conduct as usual but remember that wires smaller that 1/0 are not allowed to be paralleled according to the electrical code.
The bare copper wire is a ground wire. if your old electrical system only has black and white, then you don't have a ground wire to hook the new fixture's ground to. Safest bet is to run a ground wire to that junction box (or hire an electrician to do that). If the box in the ceiling (I'm assuming its a ceiling fixture) is metal, the home's electrical system ground wire may be attached to the metal box itself. If that's the case, you simply need to attach your new fixture's ground wire (the bare copper one) to the metal box. If in doubt -- have an electrician look at it.
There has to be more to this question for a good answer. For the most part a light switch has two contacts, with a wire at each one. One live wire and another going to the light itself. There is also a neutral wire return (from the light to the electrical panel). There is only one live wire in any electrical circuit. [Please, don't flame me with examples of multiple electrical sources in circuitry. We're talking about home lighting.] If somehow you shorted the live wire from the switch to the electrical box (ground) or to another wire in the box, it was only momentary and you can just proceed with replacing the switch. It's a good idea to turn off the power first.
Electrical wire sheathing should not project by more than one inch into where the wire terminates into a specific device. An example is a junction box or branch circuits terminating into a distribution panel.
The most important step is to make sure that the electricity is turned off to the project being worked on. Put a mounting bracket over the electrical box and tighten the screws. Twist the grounding wire to the grounding screw. Put the pendant together as per the instructions provided. Hold the canopy section near the electrical box. Using wire nuts, connect the wires from the canopy to the electrical box, keeping like colors together. Put the wire connectors in the electrical box. Using the hardware that the light came with, affix the canopy to the bracket. Turn the power back on and test to make sure it works.
One use for NiChrome wire is to make electrical heating elements.
if he had bunyans
Electrical wire sheathing should not project more than about one inch into the electric panel.
Run another wire from the electrical panel.
A one wire alternator has one wire that sends electricity to the battery and electrical system. They usually always have an internal regulator.
Electrical current flow in a copper wire is measured with an ammeter. It is either clamped onto the wire or attached at one end to monitor the amount of current moving through the wire.
This is usually done by passing an electrical current through the wire.
If there are more than 2 sets of wires in the box the answer is yes. You can never put more than one wire under a screw.