Some appliances need two power leads, 120V for the washer and a separate 240V for the dryer. Others need only a single 120/240V service. Check what is available at your local electrical goods stores or from online websites.
The USA Asko combo series runs on 110V, which is unusual for a clothes dryer. A USA dryer usually runs on 220V and has its own dedicated circuit breaker, but the Asko can run on a standard household outlet which probably shares a breaker with other outlets in the house. A clothes dryer takes a lot of current. According to the specs on most Asko combos I looked at online, your unit probably uses close to the maximum current your breaker can handle. If you are using other electrical devices at the same time, you will blow the circuit. It may even be the use of overhead lighting if it shares the same breaker. One more thing on Asko: According to many of the online reviews, the 110V combos have a tendancy to have overheating problems in the wiring when using both washer and dryer simultaneously. I would suspect that this is due to not cleaning the lint screens, so be diligent. A dirty lint screen causes the dryer to work extra hard and draw more current.
A typical washing machine is nameplate rated at 10amps MAX. Assuming it runs at the full 10 amps and the machine runs for 30 mins: we do the math. Amps x Volts = Watts. 10A x 120V = 1200 watts. Avg. US electricity is $.08 per 1000watt-hours. At 30 minutes you're using 600 watt-hours. 0.6 x 0.08 = .048. So, about $.05 in electricity per load. The dryer is the electricity hawg. They can use up to 7000watts! If you run it for 1 hour, that's 7000 watt-hours. .08 x 7 = $0.56 . Still not bad. I've not been to a laundromat lately, but I'll assume a load will cost you about $1 or so to wash and higher to dry. In the long run, its cheaper to wash at home.
Don't understand this question. If the breaker is on, then the dryer would function normally, if the breaker your are referring to is the one for the dryer. If the breaker is off then no function. A dryer runs on 220.
That's easy. Depending on the amount voltage will determine the amount of wattage, since we know the value of the current. Lets take 120 VAC times 15 Amps = 1800 watts. When my wife and me have the small electric heater running in the bedroom during the morning before and she uses her hair dryer, it blows the breaker. Then I have to run downstairs and reset the breaker. The heater runs at around 9 Amps and the hair dryer draws around 10 Amps. 19 Amps blows the breaker. The more it blows the weaker it gets. Why would one want to know the amount of wattage on a breaker, when mainly were interested in the amonut of current ratings.
There could be various reasons for why an electric clothes dryer won't turn on, including a blown fuse, a faulty door switch, a broken thermostat, or a malfunctioning thermal fuse. It's recommended to check these components and, if necessary, consult a professional technician for repair or replacement.
The USA Asko combo series runs on 110V, which is unusual for a clothes dryer. A USA dryer usually runs on 220V and has its own dedicated circuit breaker, but the Asko can run on a standard household outlet which probably shares a breaker with other outlets in the house. A clothes dryer takes a lot of current. According to the specs on most Asko combos I looked at online, your unit probably uses close to the maximum current your breaker can handle. If you are using other electrical devices at the same time, you will blow the circuit. It may even be the use of overhead lighting if it shares the same breaker. One more thing on Asko: According to many of the online reviews, the 110V combos have a tendancy to have overheating problems in the wiring when using both washer and dryer simultaneously. I would suspect that this is due to not cleaning the lint screens, so be diligent. A dirty lint screen causes the dryer to work extra hard and draw more current.
A dryer certainly can, and the hot water supplied to the washer can, but a washing machine runs on electricity, so you would need to have a generator that runs on propane to make this a reality.
Brazil has a nominal voltage of 220/380V.
I think I understand what you are asking. 3-phase motors usually are equipped with a starter or contactor, since all 3 hot wires need to be switched. The control voltage that runs the starters is 120V, because it's safer and also 120V switches and relays are cheaper. You would have a 480-120V transformer (called a control transformer) in the starter box to provide the 120V "control voltage". So the arrangement you describe would have two contactors, with two phases reversed between them. Energize one, and the motor runs forward. Energize the other, and it runs reverse. The switch sends 120V to each of the contactors, which are equipped with 120V coils.
Because the washer is many years old, and the 'brushes' on its electric motor need to be replaced.
slice a combo in zen mode after timer runs out
A typical washing machine is nameplate rated at 10amps MAX. Assuming it runs at the full 10 amps and the machine runs for 30 mins: we do the math. Amps x Volts = Watts. 10A x 120V = 1200 watts. Avg. US electricity is $.08 per 1000watt-hours. At 30 minutes you're using 600 watt-hours. 0.6 x 0.08 = .048. So, about $.05 in electricity per load. The dryer is the electricity hawg. They can use up to 7000watts! If you run it for 1 hour, that's 7000 watt-hours. .08 x 7 = $0.56 . Still not bad. I've not been to a laundromat lately, but I'll assume a load will cost you about $1 or so to wash and higher to dry. In the long run, its cheaper to wash at home.
When cold water is always running through your wash it can mean two things. It could mean your washer is broke or you have the washer settings is on cold not hot.
It is located at the washer assembly in the fender well, the same pump runs front & rear lines.
The dryer timer controls the drying cycle by setting the amount of time the dryer runs for each cycle. When you select a drying setting, the timer starts counting down and stops the dryer when the set time is reached, indicating that the clothes should be dry.
Combo jumps can be made by jumping at least two floors, at least two times, each jump taking maximum 2 seconds. After making a combo-jump, the combo mode activates. The meter to the left of the screen will fill up, and then drain within 2 seconds. In order to stay in combo mode, the player needs to make another jump of at least two floors high. When the meter runs out or if the player makes a non-combo jump, the combo will end and the player will be given extra score.
There seems to be none. Neither the Owner's Manual or the Haynes Repair Manual show a fuse for the Windshield Washer Pump...