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The shades known as XXL (as commonly referred to) that are permanent use a technology called 'water proofing'. To understand how this would work you need to understand the two different types of silicone moleule. One type of silicone molecule is known as 'water soluable', this means it can be removed from the hair by water. The second type of silicone molecule is 'non water soluable', which means it will not be removed by water. Whilst people assume only one silicone molecule exists (and silicone in general is bad news for the hair) the reality is most manufacturers use a water soluable silicone which leaves the hair with every wash.

However, some shampoo brands started using non water soluable silicones in their 'repair' conditioners and these can cause problems, as they sit on the surface of the hair and will prevent other products from entering. What then happens is the non water soluable silicone causes layers of product to build up on the hair. If you apply a high heat to this product build up (from an iron) the hair will scorch as the varying products and silicone reache a boiling point and melt. It must be stressed, this is not due to one product or one type of silicone but a mixture of products that are all blocked out of the hair by the first non water soluable silicone that was applied.

Several hair colourant brands (including Schwarzkopf XXL) use a non water soluable silicone within the colour formulation. All of these work (within the hair in varying ways) but typically the non water soluable silicone will enter the hair (along with the colour molecule) and then become trapped inside the hair due to the colour process. The non water soluable silicone will then prevent the colour molecule from leaving. You will tend to find the use of this silicone type wherever 'permanent fashion shades' are marketed, the reason being is that it's very difficult to get a permanent oxidation colour molecule in a bright fashion shade (such as certain reds, blues and purples). Therefore a direct dye (which is temporary) has to be used in the formula. This would normally fade, but if a non water soluable silicone molecule sits in front of it - it simply can't get out of the hair when the cuticle opens with general washing.

So what are the positives and negatives to use of non water soluable silicone in hair colourants? For those people are are wedded to their shade it's a real benefit, because they no longer have to keep colouring their hair to retain their desired shade. The colour remains vibrant and looks shiny. Water soluable silicones can often be used in colourants for grey coverage, as they prevent the grey from showing through the artificial colour.

The negatives can be more so, in general a lot of people who use bright colours are 'shade swappers' which mean they want to try new colours often. What will happen (when they have applied a non water soluable silicone colour) is the shade may not come out. Without a doubt, the biggest issue with non water soluable silicone (within the hair) is it will have a boiling point in excess of 250 degrees. If someone then uses a high heat from a straightening iron on their hair the silicone molecule will melt around the colour molecule (inside the hair fibre) and a synethtic cylinder will be created within the hair. Home colour Removers, and even salons cannot remove it - even using strong bleach and peroxide. You simply have to grow it out. Another issue is using a non water soluable silicone colour to lighten the hair, this can be problematic if your hair is prone to going warm or brassy. If you use a lightening non water soluable silicone colourant and the hair (after colouring) is very brassy or orange you may have trouble trying to lighten this warmth out or toning it, simply because the silicone molecule will sit in the way of the subsequant treatment. Therefore, if you are fearful of unwanted warm tones or coppery shades when lightening, you should always use a standard lightener first and then your colourant second. Never use a non water soluable silicone based shade to do it all - as stated, simply because you will never be able to tone or re-lighten the hair further - such shades should only be reserved for use on naturally blonde hair.

So whilst the use of non water soluable silicones in some hair colourants (including XXL's water proofing technology) can be a good thing, the manufacturers should really be stating on packaging that high heats must not be used on the hair if the colourant has been applied and also that it's not designed to be removed. It's effectively meant to be 'grown out'.

It must also not be assumed a home product such as 'Colour B4' would take out a non water soluable silicone colour. When removing a non water soluable silicone colour the understanding to whether the shade will remove will happen upon the conclusion of the colour remover treatment. If the shade has removed it means the silicone molecule was by-passed and flushed out with the reduction process used on the artificial colour molecule. However, (if after treatment) the previous shade remains and appears as shiny as before or appears half way down the hair to the ends (but not at the roots), it's almost certain the silicone molecule has melted (previously and at some poiint) and the colour will not be able to removed - even with a salon and bleach.

So whilst XXL and other water proofed colourants are great, the responsibility had to lay with the consumer in fully realising these are permanent and are not designed for removal. Education should also be given into the use of hot tools with this ingredient.

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Q: Do Schwarzkopf Live Color XXL hair dyes contain silicone?
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