How do you change the back brakes on a 99 Yukon?
In GMC Yukon
Take it to a professional
2 people found this useful
It depends on the type of vehicle that you have. You have to remove the caliper which is what holds the brake pads and squeezes them against the rotor (the part the wheel bolts to) so that the friction stops the vehicle. Different manufacturers use different methods to mount the caliper. GM uses 2 b…olts to hold the caliper in place using either a torx head bolt or a 3/8 hex bolt. Some Fords use two expandable pins to hold them in place that you can drive out of their slot with nothing more than a screwdriver or punch. After you get the caliper off you have to push the piston back into the caliper or the new pads won't fit in the space and go back over the rotor. Sometimes you can do this with a large pair of channel lock type pliers or with a special tool made for it but it has to be done. If the rotor has been scraping the metal plate of the old pads and and/or has grooves in it to any extent at all then they need to be "turned" on a brake lathe to true the surfaces or the new brakes will wear out very rapidly. If the rotors are severly worn and too thin then they will have to be replaced also. Best thing to do is talk to your guys at the auto parts store and they can explain that procedure to you. (MORE)
I have a 99 Dakota and when I changed the rear brakes there was noting special I had to do to them. just remember with any rear "drum" brakes. you need to make sure when you replace the shoes that you also replace the hardware (tension springs, hold down springs). If you go to any auto part store an…d ask them for the rear brake hardware kit they will know what you are talking about. (MORE)
Where can you find instructions to change the brake rotor on a 99 Pontiac Grand Am and is it a difficult process?
Answer . Due to unforseen consequences, you should really let a professional do your brakes. If you still insist, then, \nYou may want to go to a car \nparts store, or book store, and\nget a repair manual for your car.\nThey cost about $16.00\nOr, go to a Public Library.\n.
It depends if it is the front or rear brakes. Most likely if it is the front brakes you need to take off the front wheels then unbolt the two bolts on the back of the calper. Then you need to remove the caliper and take the brake pads out. After you do that you need to get a c clmp and push the cali…per piston back into the calpier making sure that you take off the cap to your brake booster so it will release any fluid back into your resevor. After you have pushed the piston back in to where it is flush with the edge of the caliper, put the new pads back where the old one came out and put the caliper back on the rotor. After that bolt it back up and replace the wheels and reservor cap. Then the last step is to pump your break pedal. That should do it for you. If you have any questions you can e-mai me at any time and i will try to answer any questions you have. Im but i cant explain how to change your drums that are on the back in writing, i would have to talk to you on the phone or something. Ok later. I hope i helped you. Sincerely willie Its me again i didnt read the question correctly. Its was the back brakes that you needed help on. Well you would have to e-mail me that way we can get in touch. Sincerely willie (MORE)
I would recommend getting a shop manual to see the procedure and to get all the varoious torque values for the bolts, etc.. They are about $20 and can be found in autoparts stores or online. For the 2004 Focus you jack up the rear end, parking brake OFF, remove the wheels. There are then four bolts …that need to be removed. These bolts hold the spindle/bearing and drum assembly to the cars rear wheel mount area (no axles anymore). It is NOT like cars used to be, where you had to remove the axle nut to get at the bearings and remove the drum. These 4 bolts are on the backside of the wheel/brake. Be careful not to damage the brake fluid line when removing and don't get mad at the shock, just work around it. Once the 4 bolts are removed, the drum can be slid off the shoes. The brake shoes, springs, pins, linkages etc. will all be visible, Take a picture if you are not sure you can remember how it all goes together. Get some non-chlorniaited brake parts cleaner and spray to remove all the dust from inside the drum and off the shoes, etc. Disassemble the springs, emergency brake link, pins, parts ... Lightly grease the six shoe contact points on the back wheel plate and install new shoes, put the pins springs back to where they need to be, etc. etc. Basically, reverse from the initial disassembly. Make sure the cam adjusting mechanism is retracted and reassemble the drum assy with the four bolts. I Torqued each to 60 ft-lbs. Prior to putting the wheel/tire on, pump the brakes to set the shoes (cams) to their proper position. Spin each drum to make sure they rotate without inding. Put your wheels on and go for a test run. (MORE)
Answer . I wasn't aware they still came with drum brakes... I've owned three and they've all been 4-wheel disc. If drums were still an option, it will take replacing all factory parts which are different from drums to discs and could be very expensive. This may include the wheel speed sensors an…d possibly the ABS unit itself. It doesn't sound worth the effort. (MORE)
I did the hard way and reached back there and did it myself but it took a couple hours and a lot of work to get to them. I've been told to undo the front motor mounts and with a hydraulic jack, jack the front of the engine down far enough to see the back 3 plugs, but I didn't try that. A lot of the… Gran Prix V-6 (beginning with 3.1 litre v-6 transaxles)models have "dog bone" motor mounts on the front side of the engine. Disconnect these (don't worry the engine is sitting on the transaxle, and it won't fall.) Once the mounts are disconnected you can insert a length of 2x4 between the engine and firewall and rotate the engine forward by using leverage. It will turn with the front drive axle. Just prop the 2x4 in the position you want to hold the engine. Sometimes, depending on your options you may have to disconnect the radiator hoses, but not always. You can usually tell just by looking. Once you have changed the plugs, release the 2x4 and the engine will rotate back to the original position. Reconnect the motor mounts (and radiator hoses if required)and, VOILA! You're done. I've done this several times and it sure beats the labor charge the shop wants to reach those plugs. Got this tip from a Pontiac mechanic. (MORE)
Answer . \nSome people will remove the two front motor mounts (dog bones) and with the car in park push the car forward to rotate the engine and apply the parking brake to hold the car. (Carefull not too far and damage the radiator) If you can get your eng to rock forward, that gives you more roo…m in the rear to remove the back three plugs -this is the easiest way. Or with alot of patience and small hands (because there just isn't much room behind the engine) a swivel and an extension. \n. \nI would recomend that you replace the plug wires at the same time because the boots usually break when you remove them and with the engine rotated forward they are easier to get at. \n. \nWhen re-installing the new plugs, it is important to make sure you get several turns on the plug before putting a wrench on it. The last thing you want to do is cross thread a spark plug. The new plugs should almost bottom out before requiring a wrench. \n. \nDont skimp on plugs and wires, pay the extra $$ for premium (OEM) and save yourself some headaches and performance problems. \n. \n(source: http://www.grandprix.net/) \n. \nHope this helps. \n. \nG (MORE)
1.Remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir2.Loosen the wheel nuts then raise the vehicle and remove wheel3.Push the piston back into the bore to provide room for the new brake pads.A C-clamp can be used to accomplish thisAs the piston is depressed to the bottom of the caliper bore the fluid in …the master cylinder will rise.Make sure is doesnt overflow.If necessary drain off some of the fluid.4.Before removing anything,spray the disc,and brake pads with brake system cleaner don't use compressed air5.remove the caliper mounting bolt,the banjo fitting for the brake hose shouldn't be disconnected unless you are removing the caliper or hose replacement6.Swing the caliper up and secure the caliper up towards the spring with a piece of wire then remove the lower and upper anti-rattle springs.Remove the outer brake pad and shim then remove the inner brake pad ans shim(s)7.Remove and inspect the upper and lower pad retainer clips,the pad retainer clips should fit snugly in the caliper mounting bracket;if they don't,replace them.Apply thin film of high-temperature grease to the retainer8.Apply anti-squel compound to the back of pads install the new inner pad and shim(s) make sure the "ears" on the upper and lower ends of the pad are fully engaged with their respective grooves and the pad retainer clips9.Install the new outer pad and shim if new pad has no shim take the old shimoff the old pad and install it on the new outer pad.Install the upper and lower anti-rattle springs10.Clean off the caliper pin and coat it with high-temperature grease.Lubricate the lower caliper pin with grease too thenswing the caliper down over the disc and new pads (if the piston hits the inner pad depress the piston further into the caliper bore with your c-clamp11.Install the mounting bolt and tighten it to the torque specifications (44-63) 99 and earlier models (51-55)00 and later models12.Put the wheel back on and tighten lug nuts (MORE)
well I did it changed out the front wheel teves for the akebono calipers, as well as new pads and rotors on the rear. I had to use a meter plus long breaker bar on the top brake bracket bolts and because the braker bar would like no way fit the lower brake bracket bolt I used the torque multi…plier on the lower brake braket bolts. and a lot of Moovit liquid penetrant foaming liqi-wrench I do not have a lift just jackstands to raise this truck I like the T-multiplier because the input was my old 10 inch ( tool ) hand rachet by Kane this always surprisingly turned out those bolts with just a moderate amount of hand pressure. I could not used heat on these bolts because they were buried behind the rotor and I couldn t reach em. The breaker bar had to be at just the right angle and with enough clearance in the wheel well , at a meter plus long that was hard to find. Likewise the torqure multiplier is about 5 inches plus thick at the handle when setup , so access to the top brake bracket bolt was not doable. Interesting note on my WJ the teves caliper pins were torques T45 type recessed pins and not hex as others have mentioned In the end I like the operation of the torque multiplier best, just put the reaction arm against an old 2by4 on the ground or a part of the truck and the bolt will just ease on out -- but dont get anything human in there cause it really builds up pressure , I used the 4 to 1 ratio Tmultiplier but a 9 to 1 exisits also hmm I wonder if this T-multiplier thing can twist out the lower pinch bolt in a rear automotive app for the macpherson struts were a "pinch" bolt is used instead of an air compressor wrench combo ? any way the akebono plus new napa disks are in my wj , Raybestos pads and new brake fluid , has a new car feel the old wj never stopped better a nice upgrade mod I recommend to those with strong arms . http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4072888&postcount=8 (MORE)
Lift the car, remove the car tires, remove the brake shoe/calipersand remove the old brake pads. Put in the new brake pads, replacethe brake shoe/calipers, replace the tire and lower the car to theground.
use autozone.com or go to autozone and you can get a print out of how to change your back brakes.just make sure you get oem pads or you will have a lot of trouble down the road.
Answer BAM! On a 99 jimmy, all 4 brakes should be disk. To change disk Brakes you must remove the wheel, and simply unbolt the cliper. On a 99 I believe there are two sets of bolts. One that attached the caliper to a mount, and then the mount to the axel. Justunbolt it and pull the caliper off. The…n remove the pads. In order to put the new pads on you must press the caliper in, to make room for the thicker pad ( usually use a C clamp and just screw it in. ) You must remove the brake reservoir cap, and make sure that when u push the fluid back up it does not overflow. Then just put it all back together. Oh the ease of disk brakes. Just be glad they are not drums! (MORE)
the Hyundai rear caliper needs to be twisted(clockwise) to compress the piston. Dont try to pry it or vice it . Remove bleeder valve if it still doesnt retract, then bleed entire system. Fresh fluid is always good for the seals and the muck youll see coming out of the bleeder valve is proof of why i…ts giving you trouble. (MORE)
Tork value on barring I have no idea what the above answer is supposed to mean but you should go out and buy either a Chilton's Manual or Hayne's Manual. Those books will give you the correct procedure. If you have never done brakes before,,,,don't do it unless you are very mechanically inclined. …Brakes are you first line of safety in a car, You want them to be exactly right. (MORE)
Open the rear hatch. There are 2 screw in the sidewall next to the brake lights (Right or Left). Remove those 2 screws and the brake/signal light housing will come out along with the wire harness for the lights. There should be 3 separate pairs of wires going to the Turn Signal, Rear Lights and Brak…e lights. Follow the wires to the brake lights and untwist the bulb housing and pull it out. Remove the bulb by pulling it from the socket. If you already have the replacement, plug it in and reassembl everything. If you do not have the replacement, take the bulb to the parts store and ask for the replacement brake lights for a 2005 GMC Yukon and give them your old one. They'll look at the numbers on the bulb and sell you the new ones. (MORE)
Take the wheel off. You'll need a 10 mm socket for the brake pad screw. Loosen the screw and the brake caliper will flip up. Remove brake pads and pay attention to how they are installed. Use a pair of regular pliers or vice grips to 'screw' the caliper cylinder back in before placing the new …brake pads on. Reverse install the pads, ie... position the same way they were before you removed them. Flip cylinder back down and put screw back in and tighten. Put the wheel back on. (MORE)
Haynes to the rescue .... again! . If you're going to do the job yourself, I'd suggest picking up a Haynes or Chilton manual for your car. It will give you step by step directions with pictures.\nI guess that the 99 has drum brakes like my 96. Take note that you might have to have those drums tur…ned at a machine shop before changing the brake shoes. And DO pick up a new spring kit. Most guys will tell you that it doesn't pay to put the old springs back on the car. One of those little tools to put the spring retainers on is a handy thing to have too.\n. \nFriPilot (MORE)
Lift the car on a jack, remove the tire, remove the brakeshoe/caliper, and remove the old brake pad. Put in the new brakepad, replace the brake show/caliper, replace the tire and lower thecar to the ground.
I your doing the drivers side turn the steering wheel left hand down to help access to the brakes, jack up the vehicle and take off the wheel. On the inside of the brake caliper youll see 2 circular covers top and bottom, remove the bottom cover using a small screw driver and youll find a torx bolt,… undo this bolt and pull the caliper open, the pads are now in the open, prise these out and replace with new ones, before you replace the caliper the pistons need to be pushed back into place, remove the brake fluid cap and push the caliper pistons back into the caliper, you can buy a tool for this but can be done without if your wound up enough. Once the caliper pistons are back into the caliper replace the caliper and replace the torx bolt, replace the brake fluid cap, replace the wheel. DONT FORGET THE PISTONS ARE PUSHED BACK INTO THERE SLEEVES, BEFORE DRIVING ALWAYS PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL TILL ITS BACK TO NORMAL sound obvious but unless you do this you wont have any brakes (MORE)
open rear doors ,on left and right side there are screws holding the light fixture in,once they are removed the lights will come out and that will expose the bulb rack on the back,two screws hold that in and there you will find the bulbs........247365
Just done this myself in a Y reg 206. You will need a torch/light. Someone to help test the brake pedal. A 10mm spanner -Inside the boot area you have to peel back the carpet-like material so that you can access the area behind the light cluster. -You will see that there is a wiring loom connecto…r, this should be disconnected. Take a note of the orientation of the connector for re-assembly. -You will also see/feel a plastic winged nut which is mounted over the exposed metal bolt. This should be unscrewed but be careful not to drop it inside the boot floor. Place the nut somewhere safe. -While you are there and before removing the light assembly take a note of the location of the two plastic (only one is visible at this point - red in my case) mounting shafts that come from the light assembly and go through the body of the car. You will need to align those when re-assembling it. -Gently push the metal bolt from the inside whilst gently pulling the light assembly from outside the car. With not too much effort the assembly should come away in your hand. -Looking at the rear of the light assembly there is a nut (size 10 in my case) that is placed on the metal bolt. This nut in now holding the bulb mounting assembly inside the coloured plastic light cluster. You should take off the nut and put it somewhere safe. -The inner black plastic bulb mounting box should now be able to be gently removed from the light cluster. Be careful whilst doing this as the bulbs will pass close to the plastic cluster and may get knocked. Once again take note of where the plastic and metal mounting poles/bolts are as you will need to re-align these when re-assembling it. -You should now be able see the 3 bulbs. In my case the indicator bulb was orange. The one with two filaments is the night lights and brake lights bulb. The final one is the reversing light. -My brake light bulb hadn't actually blown but the contacts on the bulb itself as well as in the bulb mounting assembly had become worn/tarnished so I buffed them both up with a nail file (sorry wife!) and also adjusted the "sprung" metal contact that pushes against the bulb when it is in situ, so that it pushed harder against the bulb and made a better contact. I tested the bulbs and they were now all working. -Re-assembly is the reverse of what you just did. BUT be careful when mounting the bulb assembly back inside the lights cluster as it is tricky to align the bolt and plastic mounting shaft and the bulbs can easily get knocked and damaged. Likewise it is a little fiddly aligning the whole lamp assembly when securing it back into the car body. But it's all pretty straightforward. (MORE)
From th einside of the trunk there are three plastic wing nuts that hve to be removed in order to remove the taillight. Once the taillight is out You can remove the bulb by turning it Counter clockwise.
The pump is in the fuel tank and is integral to the level sending unit, the tank must be removed for access, the wires and pipe connectors will need to be removed before the tank is lowered. If you intend to actually perform the work first remove the negative battery connection and be certain it can…not make incidental contact and create a spark. Then remove the gas cap from the fuel filler, next release any residual pressure in the fuel line by finding the schrader valve on the fuel injector rail taking a shop rag to catch the fuel, release the pressure by pressing on the pin inside the valve (it's just like a tire fill valve) don't take it for granted that because your changing out the pump that there is no pressure always plan for the worst case and be safe. As an aside the plastic fuel tank holds up to 30 gallons even if it's nearly empty it's odd and bulky shape make it difficult to manage alone. (MORE)
Most of the parts stores will print out the instructions for you.. Basically this:. Remove the wheel. Remove the calipers by removing the two bolts behind the calipers.. Hang the calipers using a sturdy bungie cord, so their weight is not on the brake lines.. Spray penetrating oil between the r…otor and the hub and let it soak in. Be generous. Use a half a can and be sure you rotate the rotors so that you get the oil all around the wheel. Bang the rotor with a 3 pound sledge until the vibration loosens the rotor. This may take some time. Let the oil soak overnight if you have trouble getting the rotors off. Replace the rotor.. Spread the calipers apart until the two parts separate. Use a C-clamp to compress the caliper pistons back to their inner-most position. Peplace the hardware clips. Replace the pads. Replace the rubber lube boots (don't try to use the old ones). You also may have to replace the caliper hardware pins. Put caliper brake grease in the boots. Reassemble the calipers. Be sure the boots fit properly on the pins. Clean everything with break cleaner (including the pads, because you can't help but get grease on them).. Slide the calipers back onto the the rotor. Put anti-seize lub on the caliper bolts and bolt the calipers back on to the frame. Torq to specifications. Put the wheel back on and take it for a test drive. Hopefully, you will be able to stop the car. (MORE)
Once the car is jacked up, remove the front tires, then with a 12 wrench key, remove the bolt that is located on the rear side of the caliper, not the one holding the brake fluid line buth the one right next to it. Pry the brake pad holder off and then remove the brake pads themselves. You will need… to press the caliper's piston in, to be able to fit new brake pads since new pads will be thicker. (MORE)
If its a rear wheel drive car it would be because more power to that axle, therefore more stopping power is exerted by the brake pads. When applying braking more forces are exerted on the front of the vehicle, this is why vehicles fitted with only one set of disc brakes (superior to drum) use them… on the front of the car, and why front brakes usually wear faster. In your case I might suspect dragging brakes possibly caused by a sticking emergency brake cable. In most cases these cables are only connected to the rear brakes hence the accelerated wear. i would guess that either the emergency brakes are stuck on or the rear calipers should be inspected and or replaced. Or, it might just be, if you have front drum brakes, that the rear brakes are adjusted closer then the fronts were. If the front drum brakes were way out of adjustments (farther away from the drum) then the rears would contact first and then the fronts. You should always check/adjust drum brakes once or twice a year. I have not seen front drum brakes since the late sixties. The accepted course of action is normally every two changes of brake pads in the front a change of shoes in the back if complete inspection warrants this action. the only way brake shoes wear quickly in the rear is if the brake cylinders are jammed open then promoting the shoes to always be in contact with the drums or the emergency brake is sticking on when you release it. Have an inspection and correct your problem and save your money in the long run. (MORE)
Brakes do get HOT ~400 degrees actually. What is the symptoms your are experiencing, fading, brake smell, vibration?
1. Remove the cap from brake fluid reservoir 2. Loosen the lug nuts the raise car and support it securely on jack stands 3. Remove the lug nuts and wheel 4. Maybe be necessary to remove the center console and detach the parking brake cable from lever for more slack to detach it from caliper. 5. Remo…ve the clip and disconnect the parking brake cable from bracket. Remove the two bolts and lift caliper assembly off 6. Remove the brake pads and rotate caliper piston back into caliper (MORE)
to remove the caliper you have to remove the chrome cap off the top bolt then use a 8mm socket to remove it. quarter inch drive was the only one i could get in there.
REAR . Raise and support vehicle. . Remove the wheel and tire assemblies. . Compress the caliper . Remove the caliper slide pin bolts NOTE: Do not allow brake hose to support caliper assembly. . Remove the caliper by tilting the top up and off the caliper adapter . Support and hang the …caliper. . Remove the inboard brake pad (1) from the caliper . Remove the outboard brake pad (2) from the caliper . REAR . Place an old brake shoe between a C-clamp and caliper piston. Bottom piston in the caliper bore with C-clamp. . Clean caliper mounting adapter and anti-rattle spring guide . Lubricate anti-rattle spring guides with Mopar brake grease. . Install anti-rattle spring guides NOTE: Anti-rattle spring guides are not interchangeable. . Install inboard brake pad to the caliper . Install outboard brake pad to the caliper . Tilt the top of the caliper over rotor and under adapter. Then push the bottom of the caliper down onto the adapter . Install caliper to the rotor and then install the caliper slide pin bolts, Install wheel and tire assemblies and lower vehicle, . Apply brakes several times to seat caliper pistons and brake shoes and obtain firm pedal. . Top off master cylinder fluid level. (MORE)
If you mean just the brake pads it is as easy as pulling the tire, unmounting the brake caliper and pulling the pads out and putting new ones in (after depressing the hydrolic ram back to a start.) There is no reason you couldn't do this yourself, but you should get a repair manual or find good deta…iled instructions online. (MORE)
Just to the right of your headlight switch on your dash is a gauge panel dimmer. wheel switch , when that is rotated all the way up it turns on the courtesy lights ,. and I believe that will also turn on the cargo lights
The rear lens is secured with two screws and two plastic clips. The screws are located above and below the door hinge, look for 3/4 inch holes punched through the sheet metal to access the screws. To help prevent losing the screw into the body cavity use a magnetic tip phillips screw driver. The …fender side of the lens has two plastic clips that hook into the body. To release the lens after removing the 2 screws, roll the lens away away from the rear door about 45 degrees then wiggle and push the lens toward the door hinge. Next detach the wire harness from the bulb circuit board socket. Cradle the lens, use one hand to release the wire plug retainer clip and the other hand to rock the plug out of the socket. Next remove two screws securing the circuit board to the lens assembly and separate. The Run light bulb is top, Brake/Turn Signal bulb in the middle (also contains 2nd Run element), Reverse bulb on the bottom. The bulb sockets are known to cause 'dead bulb' symptoms. Each socket has a metal tang intended to contact the bulb case but the tangs get bent and no longer make contact. I used a straightened paper clip wire with a small hook bent onto the end to pick at the tang and raise so it can contact the bulb. And the factory grease hardens to putty. Pick out the old grease from the sockets and bulbs, replace with a fresh dab of dielectric grease. To test before reinstalling, reconnect the circuit board to the wire harness. Reassemble the circuit board to lens assembly with two screws. Reattach lens to body by starting the plastic lens tangs in the fender/body slots and rotating the lens toward the hinge to the fitted position, then gently start the retaining screws (above & below hinges) and tighten to just snug. (MORE)
Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. . Remove the tire and wheel assembly. . Remove the front wheel hub extension, dual wheel vehicles only. . Insert a drift or large screwdriver through the brake caliper into one of the brake rotor vanes in order to prevent th…e rotor from turning. . Mark the relationship of the front wheel hub extension to the hub. . Remove the front wheel hub extension bolts. . Remove the front wheel hub extension from the vehicle. It may be necessary to tap around the perimeter of the hub extension with a rubber mallet to loosen it from the hub. . Mark the relationship of the rotor to the hub. . Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts. Notice: Refer to Support the Brake Caliper While flex Hose is Connected Notice in Service Precautions. . Remove the brake caliper and brake caliper bracket as an assembly and support with heavy mechanic's wire or equivalent. DO NOT disconnect the hydraulic brake flexible hose from the caliper. . Remove the rotor retaining push nuts from the wheel studs, if applicable. . It may be necessary to strike the end of the hub or the rotor with a deadblow hammer to separate the rotor from the hub. . Remove the rotor. . If the rotor is difficult to remove due to corrosion in the hub area use the following procedure to remove the rotor, 25 and 35 series only. . Clean all the surface areas and the threaded holes of contamination. . Generously apply penetrating oil or the equivalent to the hub/rotor area. . Insert two M10 x 1.5 bolts, jack screws, into the threaded holes of the rotor. . Tighten both bolts evenly to force the rotor from the hub. . (MORE)
When changing the brakes a diagram can come in handy. A rear brakediagram can be found in the specific car repair manual.
you have bleeder valves on all brakes. look for small fittng usually on back side of brakes starting with rear passenger side crack the bleeder valve and have someone slowly pump the brakes wait to see if all air is out tighten when fluid is steady and NO air bubbles. rear pass to rear drive then fr…ont pass and then of coursefront drive (MORE)
Saturns use a 14mm hex socket to remove the caliper bolts, both front and rear ( for a rear disk brake option) always use anti seize on threads, but do not use anti seize on the bushings. use Sylglyde or some type of impurity free grease. Anti seize is made up of aluminum shavings, and will actually… inhibit the proper movement of the caliper pins against the bushings. for more information please visit my Bio for a link to my saturn help site..... on the site you will find step by step images of how to change your brake pads. (MORE)
Admittedly, I have done it, using a brake spreader. Pain in the butt. I now just leave it up to a mechanic to do it correctly. Fortunately, mine did his apprenticeship at Kloster Fraud on the 98 AU. Now he works elsewhere.
You need to have the drums turned provided they are within specs. Any shop that can turn them can measure them for you. They just pull off (parking brake OFF). The shoes are not too tough to replace. You should replace springs /star adjusters when shoes replaces & sold in kits at better auto parts s…tores. Do 1 wheel & use other for an example. There is a rear & fwd shoe in each one. They are not the same size. These must go on proper sides for each wheel & ensure star adjuster turns in right direction-check before disassembly. There are several springs so take a bunch of pix also before disassembly. Once you get drums back on, use star adjusters (there is usually a slot to put screwdriver through) to spread out pads until you feel a slight drag & you are done. There are some special brake handtools for this which you can buy or can do with other common tools. (MORE)
I would strongly suggest you buy a manual. You jack the rear wheels off the ground. Remove the tire and wheel. Place 13 MM head bolts into the outer side of the brake drum and tighten down to pop the drum off the shoes. Gently tap the brake drum as you tighten the bolts. Once the drum is off, you ta…ke the shoes and adjusting apparatus off. Replace the shoes. Adjust the adjuster until the drum goes back on with a bit of friction on the shoes, but still turning freely by hand. Remember the shoe with the shortest lining goes in the front. The longer lining shoe goes in the rear..After changing the shoes check the pedal. If it goes down to far when you brake you need to adjust up the rear shoes. (MORE)
check to see if there are screws in the housing unit. if not, you may have to pry it off with a screw driver, just dont brake it, good luck, unless someone else has a better idea.
Take off the old ones, and put on the new ones... :D The breaks are a fairly important item, I have changed them on my '07 Taurus once. It's fairly straight forward, but not something I would feel comfortable even attempting from open source internet instructions. See "Related Questions" below …for more brake details (MORE)
On the newer vehicles, you push the parking brake down to release the parking brake. Older vehicles have a release handle on the lower left side of the dashboard.
For a detailed explanation - including many visuals - see the .pdf file via the Related link.
brake pads are decently easy to replace for disc bakes, but more complicated for drum brakes. for disc brakes all you have to do is remove the wheel, take off the caliper and depress the piston, then put in the new pads and put the caliper back on. the caliper is held on by 2 bolts on almost every …car. for drum brakes you have to take off the wheel and drum. the drum slides off like the wheel. but the pads in drum brakes have a bunch of springs and clips attached to them and you have to adjust a little ratcheting screw spacer. it can be done easily but requires slightly more thinking. NEVER HIT THE BRAKE PEDAL WHILE ANY CALIPERS/DRUMS ARE REMOVED it will cause the pistons to fall out and you will have to rebuild your calipers/drums (MORE)
The rear brakes are a conventional drum system. If you don't have experience working one them I suggest buying a repair manual or taking it to a shop.
No. You will only need to replace the brake shoes if they are worn down. Generally the front brakes do 70% of braking leaving the rear with 30%, which will cause the front pads to wear first. What is important however is that you replace either front brakes or rear brakes as a set. i.e. if you're re…placing the front brakes do the right and left side. (MORE)
It would be helpful if you could tell us the make and year at least. -
you use "C" clamp or a factory tool to force the caliper pistons back into the caliper piston bores witch forces the brake fluid back into the master cylinder. Now you can install the new pads and then reinstall the roter and bolt the caliper back onto the spindle.Be sure to use high temp bearing gr…ease for the wheel bearings. (MORE)