How do you remove french polish from furniture?
French polish is a solution of the shellac in methylated spirits ( denatured ethyl alcohol). This is applied first by brush usually and then many layers with a cloth and finally rubbed with more and more linseed or vegetable oil on the cloth. After much work a mirror finish can be achieved. So removal merely meaqns washing well with spirit and brushing that into the grain with an old toothbrush for example. There are proprietary gels which can be used, such as Rustins Varnish Remover, but they are more necessary for paint like varnishes.
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French polish I believe is a mixture of alcohol and shellac, used on turnings of wood. Answer French polishing is a technique that uses a soft cloth wrapped around a buffing pad. The pad is quickly and firmly pushed and lifted over the wood, creating a fast buffing action. You may need to rep…eat the action over the entire piece several times to achieve the desired glossiness of French polish. You do use the shellac and alcohol blend plus various oils to provide the lubrication. The highly-polished result is due to the repetitive buffing of the surface in quick, short movements. Answer In the U.K. , it is easily made by dissolving shellac in methylated spirits (methyl alcohol) and this was preferred to ethyl alcohol. When polishing, the pad was dabbed into linseed oil to lubricate it, while applying the french polish. (MORE)
You will need: 600 Grain Sandpaper Lemon Oil or Water No. 0000 Steel Wool Paste Wax Micro Fiber Cloth This process is super easy and super inexpensive! Use 600 grain wet/dry sandpaper. Soak the sandpaper with either lemon oil or water and LIGHTLY sand the area (If the acetone… stain is on a large continuous area like a tabletop you'll want to lightly sand the entire area as to avoid the repaired spot sticking out like a sore thumb.) I know sandpaper sounds scary, but 600 grain is so fine it's more like buffing than anything, just don't press hard! LIGHT continuous pressure! Sanding the area evens the wood finish back out and gets rid of the "ridges" or "dull" spots that acetone most commonly causes. Ok, you've made the surface even... now it's time to restore the luster you began with. Dip the steel wool into the paste wax and buff the surface using medium pressure. The wax will be shiny at first because of the amount of solvent in it, but as it dries it becomes hazy. This is the turning point you need to watch for. Right as it becomes hazy (half way between wet and dry), you need to buff it with a micro fiber or LINT FREE cloth to bring up the shine. If you have a table with slats do one slat at a time. If you have a table with a solid surface do it in CIRCULAR sections (like you're waxing a car). Don't worry about overlap. The solvent in the fresh wax will re-soften the hard wax again, so the circular sections will be seamless. . Keep up your beautiful new surface with a DIY wood polish: 1 cup olive oil 1 cup white vinegar Spray or pour the homemade solution on a soft cloth (never spray directly on the furniture) and work it in, wiping with the grain. Right away you will see the luster return to the wood. Make sure you buff in a circular motion using firm pressure. (MORE)
We had a massive amount of nail polish spilled on our beautful hardwood floors. We scrubbed & scrubbed with mineral spirits and that worked, but took a LOT of elbow grease! Then we sprayed on some hairspray, left it on for about 15 seconds and the nail polish WIPED RIGHT OFF!!! Amazing! We tried sev…eral different brands and the one that worked the best was TRESemme Tres Two Extra Hold aerosol. We also used a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser which made the job go even faster. . I just wanted to say we also had a massive amount of nail polish on our beautiful hardwood floors and we used TRESemme Tres Two Extra Hold aerosol and a non abrasive scrubber and a lot of elbow grease and it came off pretty easy. You saved my daughter's life thank you. . Do not apply nail polish remover to the stain; it will quickly damage finish. Instead, soften the nail polish by rubbing it with a cloth saturated in mineral spirits. CAUTION: Dry-cleaning spot remover and mineral spirits are poisonous and flammable. Follow caution on labels. Use in well-ventilated area. Do not use near flame, spark, or pilot light. Do not smoke. Do not get on skin or clothing. If the finish is hard, apply paste wax with fine 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain. Apply a small amount of oil to an oil finish. [Info from the Home Maintenance And Repair Database at the Michigan State University website] . Actually water and nail polish remover just ruin the wood furnishing leaving those unbearable stains. What you need is either the magic eraser or hair spray as weird as that sounds but it actually worked for me. just apply to the nail polish stain on a damp warm cloth and that should do the trick. (MORE)
Answer . Sorry, but you're going to have to strip your table and revarnish it. Go to your hardware store and ask them for advice as to how to do this effectively.
put paint on it then get a used coat and wipe it. make sure the paint is still wet.
Please, please, please do not "strip" your furniture just to remove wax buildup. Understand that "stripping" your furniture removes its original finish all the way down to the bare wood. This is not good for your furniture and if your treasured piece is an antique, "stripping" and refinishing will d…ecrease its monetary value by as much as half. Would you remove the paint finish on your car because it was too hard to remove the dried turtle wax on the surface? The same principle applies here. It is safer for your wood finish to have coating of wax than to be "stripped" of its finish altogether. In fact it's preferable. A good wax coating actually protects a wood's finish from many household pollutants such as cigarette smoke. And in environments where there is a lack of humidity, the wax will also protect the wood from splitting. Also understand that wax buildup is a sign that your furniture's finish needs a proper cleaning, not a "stripping". Wax buildup is noticeable when a wax-base or oil-base furniture polish is applied over and over again without a proper buffing of its surface. The furniture surface will look dull. It might even feel slightly sticky to the touch. There are two methods to try to remove excess build up. One is to actually buff the piece with a soft lint-free rag. Old yet clean cloth diapers are perfect (if you can find them). First wipe off any excess dust then buff in a circular motion with some pressure applied to the surface. Keep doing this until the surface becomes less dull and sticky. If your cloth gets dirty, change to a clean one. Remember you want to remove and smooth out the excess wax on the furniture, not reapply it. Finish by buffing again with another clean cloth with the grain of the wood. If this is done properly, you will feel that your arms have gotten a good workout. Don't be afraid to use a little elbow grease. If this does not work to your satisfaction or if the wax build up is too old, then its time to remove the excess wax. There are several products on the market designed to do just that. My favorite is a product called Vernax and is produced by the Hagerty's silver polish people. This can be purchased at Harry's Ace Hardware, any good antique furniture store, or online at http://hagertyusa.com/home/products/vernax.htm This is not a furniture stripper but is designed to remove excess wax, dirt and oils and will not harm your finish as long as it is used properly. To use apply a little to a clean cloth (not to the wood surface). Then buff the surface of the wood as describe above going first in a circular motion and then with the grain of the wood until dry. You will see a difference immediately. Remember a little will go a long way. After the Vernax treatment, I usually follow up with a good beeswax and/or carnuba wax based furniture polish which does not contain any linseed oil or silicone. Briwax or Johnson's paste wax is acceptable. The paste wax is applied in the same manner as the Vernax. Remember to keep changing cloths until they no longer pick up any residue and that a little wax goes along way. I use this method maybe once a year on furniture that is not in heavy use and twice a year on pieces that are in use everyday. The finish is maintained by weekly or bi-monthly dusting and buffing using only clean lint-free cloths. I use no other furniture polish or sprays other than what I've mentioned here on this website. I have even made my own beeswax furniture polish. The formula and its applications can be found on this Website under "How do you make beeswax furniture polish?" As a curator, I've seen the damage done to beautiful furniture by overzealous, but well-meaning, do-it-yourself restorers. It takes practice and lots a patience to properly "strip" and restore a finish. In many cases where the finish is botched, the piece can be restored but its monetary value has dropped to almost nil. And the cost to properly refinish a treasured piece of furniture is exorbitant and not worth the value of the piece. Therefore Great-Grandmother's Hope Chest gets moved out into the garage and used as a tool chest or worst yet, tossed out into the garbage. Murphy's oil soap is an easily found product, and works on some finishes. Do be careful, though as it will cloud some finishes. Those are best cleaned using the methods above. Never use a brillo pad, only 0000 steel wool. COMMENT: Let me just say that Vernax, IS NOT, designed to remove EXCESS WAX. It is a cleaner, but not that kind of cleaner. I contacted Hagerty, maker of Vernax. They said that they had heard about the comment made online in regards to this claim. However it is untrue. They do have a great cleaner, polish and protectant. A wax remover, they do not have. So, save the $15 to $20, and put it in your gas tank. Your welcome. (MORE)
Wait for the polish to dry and then scrap off as much as you can with a wooden spoon then take a toothbrush apply toothpaste and then scrub with the toothpaste. It will come out!
Very carefully! The same basic formula that removes nail polish from ones nails will also remove the finish from furniture. Contact a local furniture refinisher and get a professional opinion.
Answer . Iâve made my own beeswax furniture polish from a recipe I found in Robert McGuffinâs book Furniture Care and Conservation , published by AASLH Press. This recipe is similar to what many furniture conservators and museums recommend for hardwood furniture care. Iâve used… this formula to help restore hardwood pieces that were in Katrinaâs floodwaters. And I still use it today with excellent results. Please read the whole recipe before beginning. Supplies One wide-mouth Mason jar or other canning jar with two-part ring-seal lid One cake of good-quality natural, non-bleached beeswax (It will be yellowish in color) Pure distilled Turpentine (NO TURPENTINE SUBSTITUTES) One piece of plastic wrap One wood paint mixing stick or other non-food use stirring implement Optional Additions A dropper of Lemon Oil (approximately a teaspoon) A dropper of Orange Oil A dropper of Lavender Essential Oil Assorted artist dry pigments for tinting and coloring polish for darker woods (Ochre and umbers work beautifully) Method Shave or shred enough beeswax into the Mason jar to fill it about two-thirds full. Then pour in enough turpentine to cover the beeswax, up to three-fourth full. At this point you can add either the lemon, orange or lavender oils for extra fragrance and/or the dry pigments for the degree of color need for the polish. Add color at about a half or an eight of a teaspoon at a time. I discovered that a mixture of one teaspoon of burnt umber with an eighth of a teaspoon of lamp black makes a great polish for darker woods such as aged oak or walnut. A teaspoon of yellow ochre is great for natural pine and other lighter-colored wood. Mix the contents well with a wood paint mixer or other non-food use stirring implement. Cover the top of the jar with the plastic wrap. Then close the jar with the two-part, ring-seal lid. The plastic wrap will keep the ring-seal on the lid for breaking down from the turpentine fumes. Place the jar outside in the sun for several days. Make sure itâs a warm day. Or place the jar in a warm place in your house for several days. Stir or shake the jar each day to mix the contents even more. The process can be speeded up by placing the sealed jar in a pan of warm just simmering water (not boiling) until the wax melts and blends with the turpentine. When the wax has completely melted into the turpentine, a soft paste will be formed. Application and Uses The finished paste can be used in place of most commercial waxes on most hardwood furniture that does not already have an oil finish. The beauty of the beeswax polish is that a little goes along way and does not have to be applied every time you clean or dust your furniture. Start with a clean, dust free surface. Do not use any commercial preparations to clean or dust the surface. A clean lint-free rag will suffice. A cloth diaper is ideal if they can still be found. Dab a little paste onto a clean rag and apply in a circular motion then finish with strokes along the grain of the furniture. REMEMBER A LITTLE GOES ALONG WAY. Let dry for about a half an hour to let the turpentine evaporate. Then buff the surface well in the direction of the wood grain with another clean soft lint-free cloth. This will bring out a nice shine. To maintain a piece of furniture that has be treated with beeswax paste. Just dust and buff the surface with a clean soft rag. No commercial sprays or other cleaners are needed. And if something spills on the surface, the natural waterproof properties of the beeswax will help prevent damage caused by most spillage. Just wipe with a gentle soap (Ivory) on a damp rag and dry thoroughly. Most people who use beeswax âbase polish only apply them once, maybe twice a year depending on the furniture. If you have a dining room table which is used every day, an application two maybe three times a year will work best. If you have a cabinet which is never used, an application of once every two years is fine. Just remember to dust and buff weekly if possible to revive the finish. If this method of cleaning is used, you do not ever have to worry about wax build up. It will never happen and is only something advertisers use to sell more expensive cleaning products. Non uses Do not use paste polish or any type of cleaning product on in-painted, gesso, flaking, gilt (gold) or metal leaf, furniture surfaces. Any cleaning method will cause more harm than good. Best advice is to consult a qualified furniture conservator if the piece is valuable. If not, then just leave it be and do not clean it at all. (MORE)
Before repainting any furniture or cabinets, it's a good idea to wash it first with trisodium phosphate (TSP), which is found in the paint section of the hardware store. To remove heavy wax build-up, use mineral spirits or paint thinner, rags, and lots of elbow grease. You might have to use fine ste…el wool, especially if the wax is in crevices. Remember, your goal is to remove the wax, not damage the wood. Any wax left on the wood will prevent the paint from sticking as it should, and you will be left with streaks. (MORE)
I tried once by socking the fabric with vaceline after that I let it sit for a couple of minutes. After you have done this you should put some acetone or nail poish remover on a piece of cotton and rub it on the fabric. It worked for me and i hope it works for you.
well, u can i guess just use a cotton/dry towel/tissue to wipe it off. While applying, it shouldn't leave too much nail polish remover unless u applied too much
lol isnt it obv.you remove the nail polish off from ur nails using the polish remover :/
You have two problems. One is the stain and one is the oil. However, using a paint solvent on the spots and then washing the clothing may solve the problem. If the oil spots remain, then soak ( 1/4 cup dishwasher detergent, 1/4 cup bleach mixed thoroughly in hot water) for no more than 15 minutes an…d then put through a washing cycle. Do not dry the clothes until you are certain all the spots are out. (MORE)
Sparingly. Don't use polishes with additives. Put polish on cloth not direct on guitar, try to keep it off the fingerboard
A very popular essential oil used in many different applicationincluding furniture polish is the oil from the tea tree. The teatree is native to southeastern Queensland in Australia.
every day 2. a good beeswax polish once a week is good and smells great.
The easiest way to make your own furniture polish is to just usemayonnaise. Spread the mayo on your furniture, let it sit for a fewminutes and then buff the piece with a soft cloth.
French polishing can enable one to achieve deep color and shine.This wood finishing technique results in a very glossy surface offurniture.
Orange or lemon oil is one of the best furniture polishes that arenatural. Some people prefer artificial polishes like Pledge.
Some say scrape. Some say dig. I would try a little of both. And try some nail polish remover while you're at it.
Furniture polish is for furniture. Get some gun polish at your local gun polish store.
The advantages of furnisher polish are it cleans and dust any wood. Plus it waxes the wood.
the furniture polish began from the ancient egypt they made it from honey the first commercial polish began in the market in 1958
Furniture polish can be purchased at any department (Kmart or Walmart) or box store (Lowes, Home Depot, or Menards). If you are looking for professional polish, try a specialty finish store or hardware.
you can buy furniture stainer for that same reason. it also works or water stains and scraches.
The main ingredient in nail polish is acetone and in some cases acetate. The acetone dissolves the nail polish; liquifying it. This makes it easy for it to wipe off with a cotton ball or tissue.
I searched the internet and found many different responses on this one. For myself, I am currently using Pledge Furniture polish on my boat, my truck, and stainless steel. The bottom line of what I'm reading is it works great to give a quick shine to most painted or sealed surfaces, but doesn't l…ast very long. I've read people are using it on vinyl seats, tires, and plastic windshields. (MORE)
Well I would say not to. It may ruin the original wood on the violin. Use violin polish, or go to a professional and have it colored. I recommend a professional. It's about fifty dollars to have it cleaned.
No, you'll damage them that way. Furniture polish has additives that are harmful to your records. Instead, gently use dish soap and water with a brush, or better yet, purchase a record cleaning kit with a brush and cleaning solution.
It doesnt. It jsut covers up the previous color. Correction: putting nail polish on old nail polish then quickly wipeing it of takes it off because the new nail polish grabs the old like insta glue and takes the old when you wipe it off.
One First call POISON CONTROL then ask them what to do.Then You are going to see if the Furniture polish is toxic or non-toxic.If toxic take your child to the nearest hospital or Emergency Room.If non-toxic call your child's emergency nurse number then ask them what to do. . Emily . 12,MD
Kleen Guard furniture polish is sold by a number of companies on line. A few of them are linked below.
I use Guardesman furniture cleaner, or Murphy's Oil soap, or Briwax. Do not let water sit on the wood as it will raise the grain.
depends on the finsh and the type of wood. wouldn't recomend it just wipe it off buff with dry soft cloth
Windex, I'm not kidding i dropped a box of nail polish on my head and it got over the carpet and my chairs i tired nail polish remover and then hot water and soap gave up then look up how to get it off carpets and it came off so i tired it on my chairs and it worked. took time and hard work but it… worked (MORE)
I would first try rubbing alcohol If that doesn't work you can buy this stuff called goo gone. It takes off sticky stuff from labels. It might also be able to take off the furniture polish. I would try either a mixture of vinegar and water takes off all stains away usually. If that doesn't work… then I would try some rubbing alcohol. Alcohol has gotten some stuff off of my mirrors before. (MORE)
Yh boi me nd ma bois go HARD fam we r4pe oap blud bop bop!
there is no way to do it, just remove it with nail polish cleaner, sand the damaged part, and paint it white again. I tried the hairspray method and I used a Q-tip. I used the Fruitectis hairspray and i sprayed it on the Q-tip then rubbed the fingernail polish. It took a lot of squirts and scrubs… but it did come off and the paint is fine. I could NOT believe it ! very happy ! (MORE)
As most furniture polishes contain silicon, yes they will normally stop a hinge from squeaking, if only for a short while.
I have heard that we can mix lemon and salt with little water and put it in a spray bottle and use it as wood polish . Try it i may work . Please tell it worked or not
The best polish for oak furniture is correctly applied, traditional beeswax. It is relatively inexpensive as a little goes a long way, and can be easily bought on the internet or at bespoke hardware stores.
I have had this problem. I have discovered quite by accident that if you mix vinegar and water in a spray bottle and wait 2 -3 minutes and then wipe it with a paper towel your furniture polish will remove quite easily.
It is usually some kind of wax, carnauba or beeswax, dissolved or partially dissolved in a solvent (which evaporates quickly) to soften it into a paste or liquid to allow the wax to be spread easily over the surface of the furniture. It needs to be rubbed, or buffed, to make the surface shine.
it makes the dust unable to settle as the dust is attracted to thestatic of the sofa when a material is rubbed against it. With theantstatic it is not attracted to the sofa and will not settle
Pumice powder is a fine abrasive material used in the application of shellac or varnish to obtain a fine hand rubbed finish. The pumice is used between the layers of finish which must be dry before pumice powder is used. In short it is used between the applications of the finish
By furniture polish I assume you mean the waxy buildup from using pledge or endust furniture polish? Both of these can be removed by using denatured alcohol on a soft cloth. Lemon oil or orange oil as well can strip waxes off furniture finishes. However, if the furniture has a "French Polish" of s…hellac and linseed oil, alcohol, water or oils could damage that. Instead a clean slightly damp rag with a little saddle soap and light rubbing could remove it. DO NOT wet the surface as it could cause shellac to whiten. Always work in small areas and dry the surface immediately, test initially on the underside of the furniture before doing the top surface. After cleaning the surface the polish can be touched up with a balled up rag with a little linseed oil and worked in with a figure 8 motion. A few drops of denatured alcohol will help spread the oil but do not use more than a few drops at a time. Do not wax a french polish. For other surface treatments, butchers wax with a little alcohol is good for polishing, clean with denatured alcohol. Most spray on polishes are carnauba wax and lemon or orange oil. (MORE)
The main reason you would use furniture polish is to make sure that the piece of furniture that it is being applied to has a shine to it. It is mainly for aesthetic purposes.
I have no special knowledge about this. If it were me I would laythe stained area on an a few layers of paper towel or a cotton ragand blot it (swab if necessary) on the top side with acetone(fingernail polish remover). Depending on the extent of the stainyou may have to change the paper towel or ra…g during the process. Acleaner like 409 as a first attempt may be gentler on the fabric. You may want to try this on a inconspicuous area first. See related link below (MORE)
DID YOU KNOW - There are 4 kinds of French Polisher outthere So, be sure to pick the right one for you! . Antique Restorers , whose skills include the 19th centuryart of Traditional French Polishing, use shellac, alcoholand linseed oil to build up a one coat glossy finish toauthentically resto…re furniture from that period. Discontinuedcommercially in the 20's in favour of superior cellulose lacquers,applied by spray and worked by hand - with stains, dyes, tints,shades, grain-fillers and stipples - this is the work of the Modern French Polisher . . Modern French Polishers can be found in furniturefactories throughout the world, and the variety of finishes theyproduce can be seen in any good furniture store today. Forauthentic restoration of 20's Art Deco, to 60's Ercol, to 21stcentury designer pieces - and everything else in between - you needan experienced Modern French Polisher . . Franchised Repairers train for a few weeks and are taughtto disguise minor scratches and dents in wooden furniture alongwith upholstery repair work. Working in situ and using specialisedrepair kits, this can be quite effective for minor damage. . Painter & Decorators sometimes pass themselves off asFrench Polishers. DIY products for sale in the Decorator'sMerchants, in the hands of someone skilled with a brush, can bequite acceptable for ordinary internal joinery. But not, of course,for fine furniture, or where a "furniture quality finish" isdesired, or if mere ordinary is not for you. (MORE)