A timer is a type of contactor. My answer assumes you do not need an additional contactor besides the timers and the timers are operated by the same circuit as the outlet.
Each timer and the outlet need connections to the neutral and grounding conductors of the circuit.
For the hot wires, you have to run your hot feed to each of the timers on the "line" side of the contacts. If the timer and the "line" side of the contacts are different connections you will have 2 connections in each timer.
Then from the "load" side of the contacts you run wires that connect to the hot side of your outlet. At some point you will splice these together so you have only one hot wire connection to the outlet.
Remember that timers, contactors, relays, etc., are simply switches operated by various means. You have the hot feed on one side and the "switch leg" to your load. You also have a control of some kind, and in your case your controls are the timers.
How do you wire a time clock with a contactor with a override switch
You don't.
It makes and breaks four separate contacts. Think of a switch for example that connects one wire to one wire. A 4 pole contactor is like 4 separate switches going on together.
One way is to use the auxiliary contacts on the motor contactor to close a separate source supply to drive an auxiliary relay.
Black wire to gold screw, white wire to silver screw, ground to green screw. If you are using a GFIC outlet then the hot wires coming in hook to the Line side of the GFIC receptacle and the wires going out to other receptacles hook to the load side.
A contactor is a type of switch. However this switch uses electricity to power an electromagnetic coil to switch on or off power. Hence a contactor needs 2 wires - A live/hot wire and a neutral wire. Generally these are connected across the A1 and A2 terminals of the contactor.
a shorted out outlet can cause a backfeed on the white wire, an open circuit on the white wire with and electrical appliance plugged in to an outlet can cause the same type of backfeed
you would wire a float switch into the control circuit i.e, the contactor coil (which is relatively low current but rated at least for the control voltage,, in most cases 120VAC). also in the same circuit would be the overload contacts. if the overload trips and/or the float switch opens then voltage is removed from the contactor coil
A Punch Down Tool
No, that is not unsafe.
none the resistance is in the wire not the timer
Take a wire from one of the line terminals L1 to one side of the contactor coil. Take another wire from the second line terminal L2 and put it to one side of a N.C. contact on the overload block. From the other side of the N.C. contact on the O/L block take a wire to the N.C. terminal on the pressure switch. From the other side of the N.C. contact on the pressure switch terminal connect the wire to the other side of the coil. This configuration will be using the same coil voltage on the contactor as that of the supply voltage.