Each fuse has its own rating. It will be marked on the fuse somewhere.
Fuse blows off when the current that is passing through the fuse, is above the minimum fusing current of the fuse used.
It depends on the surround material, temperature, type of cable, and what you mean by "maximum current rating". Typically a maximum load current rating will be specified, such as 15A; this means you can push 15A through that cable nonstop without damaging it (it won't overheat). You might have a short time rating as well, such as a 4 hour rating, where the cable can handle runing 22A for 4 hours if the surrounding temperature is kept to some value, though this may slightly degrade the insulation. There's also a fusing current rating for many cables. At this current, the cable will eventually melt (like a fuse).
30 mAmp rating devices are commercially available.
Holding current is a kind of Imin i.e., a minimum rating current which should not be decreased less than this limit so that SCR will be off(Maximum limit).Whereas latching current is again a limit which is Imini.e., a minimum current that should be there to make it on(Minimum limit).So obviously Holding current is more than latching current.If u still have the confusion go through the link below ALi RAZA
The current rating is 2A (2 amps).
A current rating of a fuse is designed to open a circuit at a specific current flow. This rating is imprinted on the fuse and lets you know what the maximum amount of current the fuse is designed to open at. A fuse is in the circuit to protect the conductor that the current flows through. Never over fuse a conductor's current carrying capacity.
Fusing factor is the ratio of a fuse's minimum fusing current (the smallest current that will cause the fuse to melt) and the nominal rated current (usually the number in Amps marked on the fuse body).
No current bro? Depends
It depends on the surround material, temperature, type of cable, and what you mean by "maximum current rating". Typically a maximum load current rating will be specified, such as 15A; this means you can push 15A through that cable nonstop without damaging it (it won't overheat). You might have a short time rating as well, such as a 4 hour rating, where the cable can handle runing 22A for 4 hours if the surrounding temperature is kept to some value, though this may slightly degrade the insulation. There's also a fusing current rating for many cables. At this current, the cable will eventually melt (like a fuse).
30 mAmp rating devices are commercially available.
100 Amperes is minimum for a new home now'a'days
: They are directly related Either one increases power rating will increase. For an IC either one increases will dire-rate the component.
By reducing the output fusing of a generator, the total output of the generator will also be reduced. The capacity of the generator will remain the same but the fault trip point will be lowered.
By reducing the output fusing of a generator, the total output of the generator will also be reduced. The capacity of the generator will remain the same but the fault trip point will be lowered.
Holding current is a kind of Imin i.e., a minimum rating current which should not be decreased less than this limit so that SCR will be off(Maximum limit).Whereas latching current is again a limit which is Imini.e., a minimum current that should be there to make it on(Minimum limit).So obviously Holding current is more than latching current.If u still have the confusion go through the link below ALi RAZA
: They are directly related Either one increases power rating will increase. For an IC either one increases will dire-rate the component.
An age rating is a classification for a product which specifies the minimum age for a person using it.
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