You will not pull enough power to properly operate the appliance, and you can damage the electric assembly possibly nullifying the warranty. It won't work very well. You need to get a 220 breaker, which goes across both legs of the 220 panel as opposed to a 110 v breaker which only pulls current from ONE leg of the 220 line. But it won't burn out anything if you only connect it to 110.
If it's a true 120 V only appliance, and not a dual-use appliance it will most likely break immediately. There may be a fuse in the unit, which can be replaced the unit to get it working(with the right voltage) again, or the unit may be permanently destroyed.
208 volt heater on 240 volts
The heater will operate over its given specified wattage. A 208 volt heater run off of 240 volt will have an output increase. Ohms law stated that current is directly proportional to the applied voltage and inversely proportional to the resistance of the circuit. A 240 volt heater can be run off of 208 but the wattage will be reduced.
For example if the heater is 5000 watts at 208 volts, the current is I = W/E 5000/208 = 24 amps. The resistance of the heater is R = W/I (squared) = 5000/24 x 24 (576) = 8.68 ohms. Applying 240 volts on the same heater whose resistance is 8.68 ohms results in this new heater wattage rating. W = E (squared)/R = 240 x 240 (57600)/8.68 = 6636 watts. This is 1636 watts higher than the manufacturer's safety rating.
W = watts, I = amperage, R = resistance in ohms and E = voltage.
If the supply is well protected , the circuit breaker will trip. If your wiring is old & of poor insulation , there could be an electrical fire somewhere in the wiring. assuming that the power wires & the supply outlet are capable of handling the power drawn & the heater is robust enough it will run for some time at double its rated capacity .
However since the temperatures will be considerably higher than normal operation, the weakest or the hottest part on the heater will burn out akin to a fuse. The cheaper the heater the faster the burnout time, which could be for practical purposes almost instantaneous.
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120 volt heater on 240 volts
The heater will operate over its given specified wattage. A 120 volt heater run off of 240 volt will have an output increase. Ohms law stated that current is directly proportional to the applied voltage and inversely proportional to the resistance of the circuit. A 240 volt heater can be run off of 120 volts but the wattage will be reduced.
For example if an ordinary 1000 watt baseboard heater's supply is 120 volts, the current of the heater will be, I = W/E 1000/120 = 8.3 amps.
The resistance of the heater is R = W/I (squared) =1000/8.3 x 8.3 (69) = 14.5 ohms.
Applying 240 volts on the same heater whose resistance is 14.5 ohms results in a new heater wattage rating. W = E (squared)/R = 240 x 240 (57600)/14.5 = 3972 watts.
This is 2972 watts, almost 300%, higher than the manufacturer's designed safety rating.
The amperage drawn by connecting a 120 volt, 1000 watt heater to a 240 volt source will be, I = W/E = 3972/120 = 33 amps.
W = watts, I = amperage, R = resistance in ohms and E = voltage.
It gets hot very quickly. If the internal thermal protection device doesn't trip then most likely the breaker will. e.g. 1000 watt heater. Normal current for the heater at 120 volts is 8.3 amps. To find the resistance of this heater use the formula R = E sq/W. 120 x 120/1000 = 14.4 ohms resistance. Now for the current at 240 volts, I = E/R. I = 240/14.4 = 16.6 amps. As you can see you will be introducing double the current to the 120 volt heater. Ohms law states, the current is directly proportional to the applied EMF (voltage) and inversely proportional to the resistance of the circuit.
All those answers that use a static resistance value are incorrect. A heating element starts with a low resistance and the resistance increases as the element heats up. With the higher voltage applied the resistance increases to the point where the rated heater output is obtained. It then is self limiting due to the increasing resistance with temperature increases. The heating element composition, length, and surrounding cooling forces, will determine the effective resistance of the element with a specific applied voltage. This will not be as hot with a lower voltage but the actual temperature is typically not a linear function.
No, in North America the plug configuration will not allow that to happen. The blade configuration for 120 volts are in parallel where as the 220 volt configuration are in tandem.
Nominal residential voltage is 120/240 volts. Not sure from you description if the plug is just rated at 230 volts or is supplying 230 volts (It is likely that the plug may be rated at 230 volts, but only operating at 120 volts). A typical hand held hair dryer would operate on 120 volts. A commercial hair dryer might operate at 220 volts, but must be plugged into a 220 supply.
Yes- 120 volts is just the label given to it for ease of the consumer. The voltage actually fluctuates several times every second, and can reach as high as 175.
At 120 Volts you would draw about 42 amps. At 240 Volts it would be about 21 amps. For 120 Volts you would need 6 AWG and for 240 Volts you would need 10 AWG.
I don’t know
plug a block heater plug into any household 120 electrical outlet just like plugging in a heater in your house
No. A water heater requires a 240 volt connection and cannot be re-wired to run on 120 volts. There isn't enough amperage in 120 volts to power the heating rods that are inside.
No, in North America the plug configuration will not allow that to happen. The blade configuration for 120 volts are in parallel where as the 220 volt configuration are in tandem.
Nominal residential voltage is 120/240 volts. Not sure from you description if the plug is just rated at 230 volts or is supplying 230 volts (It is likely that the plug may be rated at 230 volts, but only operating at 120 volts). A typical hand held hair dryer would operate on 120 volts. A commercial hair dryer might operate at 220 volts, but must be plugged into a 220 supply.
A label.
NO
Yes, a 1500 watt heater operating on 120 volts has an amperage of A = W/V. Amps = Watts/Volts = 1500/120 = 12.5 amps. It is not a recommended practice to do so.
Yes. The voltage of 120 volts is a nominal figure. The utility company has a plus or minus tolerance from 110 to 120 volts. This tolerance is based on the figure of 115 volts.
Yes- 120 volts is just the label given to it for ease of the consumer. The voltage actually fluctuates several times every second, and can reach as high as 175.
At 120 Volts you would draw about 42 amps. At 240 Volts it would be about 21 amps. For 120 Volts you would need 6 AWG and for 240 Volts you would need 10 AWG.
Take the plug in your hand, and insert the plug into the wall outlet.
In the USA houses would have 120/240 volts. 120 volts at most receptacles and lights and 240 volts for larger equipment like your stove, dryer, hot water heater.