The dimmer gets hot because it takes the extra voltage that isnt being sent to the lights and converts it to heat to dissipate it.
One 3-way dimmer switch, one regular 3-way switch and one 4-way switch. The 4-way is wired between the two pairs of travelers from the other two switches. The common on the dimmer is tied to either the light or to the branch hot and the common on the other 3-way is tied to whichever is left (hot or the light).
No, the dimmer switch needs its own individual circuit power supply to feed the fixtures connected to it. The black of the second dimmer switch can not be connected to the red wire of the first dimmer switch. Now if you are talking about using a common "hot" to feed two dimmer switches then this can be done. The neutrals will be common also. So what you should have is two black wires connected together with the incoming "hot". Two neutrals connected together with the incoming white. The red from each dimmer is then connected to its own individual fixture load.
On the "hot"wire that comes from the breaker panel the voltage should be from 115 to 120 volts. This is taken from the "hot" wire to either the neutral or the ground wire. If its not then you have a breaker problem or you are on the wrong scale of the test meter.
I can not understand your question.
You need a three way switch to control lights from two locations. The name is misleading. Three way switch refers to the connection points on the switch. You can use a three way switch as a single switch as long as you place hot wire on the brass screw and the use any of the other screws for the return hot.
A rheostat is an extremely ancient form of variable resistor that was used very largely to vary voltage. As you mention replacing a light switch, presumably you want to install a dimmer? If so, lighting dimmers are solid state and are a simple replacement for a standard switch. NOTE - you cannot use a conventional dimmer on anything but standard incandescent lamps. They will not work on low volt, fluorescent or halogen lamps (or HID). Make sure that the circuit breaker is turned off before starting work on changing the switch out. Just for the sake of convention the top wire on your conventional switch should be the hot one. Connect this same wire to the top wire that is on your new dimmer switch. Make sure that the dimmer switch is in the off position before turning the breaker back on.
Although a dimmer can be designed for 12 v halogen lamps it is more common for dimmers to work on higher voltages. Dimmers have to work into a resistive load so it is not usually possible to place the dimmer on the high-voltage side of the 12 v transformer that comes with the lights.
The Plug that is hooked to the head light switch is melting, Get a new switch at a parts store, it will come with a new plug, it will be necessary to splice (solder) the plug. If you do not replace the plug and switch it will start a fire in the dash.
If it is dimming the light, yes. A dimmer switch is nothing but a potentiometer, better explained as a variable resistor. It will lower the voltage going to the light bulb, but the excess energy must go someplace, and is released as heat. The lower the brightness, the warmer it will get (until it is turned all the way off). There are newer dimmer switches that work in different manners, but I don't believe that is what you are referring to.
If the hot is connected to the supply and it is turned on and the switch is turned on and the neutral not connected this could be quite true. Connect the neutral to the supply neutral and shut the switch off. Now the only reading that you should get is the hot supply.
Only if the existing switch box has an unswitched hot and neutral in it.
Disconnect - side of battery Remove door switch (Either pry out or unscrew) Remove wire at rear of switch Re-route wire through kick panel to dash switch (wire is Hot Ground switched circuit) Make sure new switch is grounded one side of switch to wire - other side to ground