Yes there is. A saw cramp also known as a vice is a small metal device that is fixed on a workbench to hold a saw when resharpening it

the most common cause is a dull blade, resharpening / replacing the blade should solve this.

Actually, the "lead" of a pencil is not lead at all. It is actually graphite.

If it were lead, you would get very sick and die from lead poisoning...and as tasty as that pencil tip may look, it probably wont taste good and you really shouldn't eat it. Nonetheless, the graphite probably wont hurt too bad even if you decide to eat it.

Resharpening a fillet knife is essential for maintaining its effectiveness in precision cutting tasks. The best way to resharpen a fillet knife involves using a whetstone, honing rod, or other sharpening tools. Here's a step-by-step guide on how to resharpen a fillet knife using a whetstone:

Materials Needed:

Fillet knife

Whetstone (preferably one with different grits, e.g., coarse and fine)

Water (for lubricating the whetstone)

Towel or non-slip base (to secure the whetstone)

Steps:

Prepare the Whetstone:

Place the whetstone on a stable, non-slip surface, such as a countertop or a wet stone holder.

Wet the whetstone with water and allow it to soak for a few minutes, ensuring it's thoroughly saturated.

Determine the Angle:

Determine the appropriate sharpening angle for your fillet knife. Most fillet knives have a narrow bevel, so a shallow angle of approximately 10-15 degrees is often suitable.

If you're uncertain about the angle, you can use the existing bevel as a guide. Match the angle of the bevel when sharpening.

Start with the Coarse Grit Side:

If your whetstone has different grits, begin with the coarse side. This side is used for reshaping and removing any nicks or dullness on the blade.

Hold the knife by the handle and position the blade's edge against the whetstone at the chosen angle.

Sharpen One Side:

Using even and consistent pressure, move the blade along the length of the whetstone, starting from the heel (base) to the tip of the blade.

Maintain the chosen sharpening angle throughout the process.

Repeat this motion several times on one side of the blade, ensuring you evenly cover the entire edge.

Switch to the Other Side:

Flip the knife over and repeat the sharpening process on the opposite side of the blade. Maintain the same angle.

Alternate Strokes:

Continue alternating between sides, sharpening the blade evenly on both sides. Remember to keep the blade at the chosen angle and apply consistent pressure.

Check for a Burr:

As you sharpen, you will create a burr, or a thin wire edge, along the blade. To check for the burr, gently run your thumb or a cloth along the edge. You should feel a slight, raised ridge of metal on one side.

Switch to the Fine Grit Side:

Once you've achieved the desired level of sharpness on the coarse grit side, switch to the fine grit side of the whetstone. This side is used for honing and polishing the edge.

Hone the Blade:

Repeat the sharpening process on both sides of the blade using the fine grit side to hone and refine the edge.

Continue until the blade feels uniformly sharp, and you've removed the burr.

Clean and Dry the Knife:

Rinse the knife with water to remove any metal particles and residue from the sharpening process.

Dry the knife thoroughly with a clean towel.

Test the Sharpness:

Carefully test the knife's sharpness by slicing through a piece of paper or soft material. It should cut cleanly and effortlessly.

Maintenance:

Regularly use a honing rod or strop to maintain the knife's edge between sharpenings. This will help keep the blade in optimal condition.

Remember that resharpening a fillet knife, like any knife, requires practice to achieve consistent results. Be patient, maintain a consistent sharpening angle, and take your time to ensure the blade is adequately sharp for your specific cutting needs.

There are many different parts of a knife. The main ones are here:

Back spacer-the material that holds the two sections of the handle together in a folder.

Belly-edge curve or arc. The greater the belly, the better you can make sweeping cuts necessary for skinning. In a combat knife, it changes the angle of attack from a chopping cut to a slashing movement.

Choil-the unsharpened part of the blade where it meets the handle; many knives have a choil designed to accept the index finger so you can choke down on the blade and have better control. Some makers assert that choils are to avoid ragged indentations at the grind termination when resharpening. Either way, it's for your benefit.

Fuller-more commonly known as a blood groove, this hollowed out strip reduces weight without removing strength from the blade.

Jimping-notched sections on any part of the knife used for enhancing grip.

Quillon-pronounced "key own" (it's French), these are the extensions from the handle that protect your hands from moving down on the blade.

Recurve-a sweeping blade edge in an S shape, used for extending the length of the cutting edge, improve slicing, or just for visual effect. This is more difficult to sharpen in the field since you need rods.

Scales-the handle sections attached to the tang of a full-tang knife or to the back spacer of a folder.

Skeletonized-some pieces of the handle material are taken out to make the knife lighter.

Spine-the back of the blade.

Swage/swedge-often called a false edge, this taper or bevel on the spine near the blade tip reduces weight and thickness of the blade and if sharpened, produces an extra cutting edge for enhanced penetration. Often seen on fighting knives.

Tang-how far the knife blade extends into the handle; the two types are partial or full. Full tang is generally stronger.

Thumb rise-also called a ramp or rest, this area at the place where the handle and blade meet allows the user to apply thumb pressure and exert greater control over the knife.