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barong Tagalog

A painting of Ramon Magsaysay, the first Philippine President to wear a barong in an official portrait
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A painting of Ramon Magsaysay, the first Philippine President to wear a barong in an official portrait

A barong Tagalog (or simply barong) is an embroidered formal garment of the Philippines. It is very lightweight and worn untucked (similar to a coat/dress shirt), over an undershirt. It is a common wedding and formal attire for Filipino men. The term "Barong Tagalog" literally means "Tagalog dress" (i.e., baro ng Tagalog or dress of the Tagalog) in the Filipino language.

The barong was popularized as formal wear by Philippine President Ramon Magsaysay, who wore it to most official and personal affairs, including his inauguration as president. The barong was officially made the national costume by a decree from President Ferdinand Marcos in 1975.

Origin

This Filipino tradition dates back to the Spanish Colonial era. A legend persists that the Spaniards made Filipinos wear barongs untucked to distinguish them from the ruling class, its translucent fabric helping the Spaniards to see that the wearer was not bearing any weapon under the garment.

Sociologists have argued against this theory, however, pointing out that untucked wear was very common in pre-colonial Southeast and South Asian countries, and that the use of thin, transcluencent fabric developed naturally given the heat and humidity of the Philippines. Historians, likewise, have noted the absence of a citation to the specific law where the Spaniards supposedly prohibited the natives from tucking in their shirts. They also note that natives during the Spanish Era wore their shirts tucked at times. A common example cited in support of this argument is José Rizal and his contemporaries, who were photographed in Western clothing with their shirts tucked — although the era of the barong predated Rizal's time.

Another disputed theory is whether the barong was a local adaptation or a precursor to the guayabera, a shirt popular in the Latin American communities[1]. According to those who claim that the barong is the precursor of the guayabera, the guayabera shirt was originally called "Filipina" during the era of Manila Galleon tradeships when it was brought to Mexico from the Philippines.[2]

Type of cloth used

Most barongs are made of piña cloth or jusi fabric. Piña cloth is made from fiber from pineapple leaves. Jusi fabric was once made from abaca or banana silk but, since the 1960s, it has been replaced by imported silk organza. Jusi is mechanically woven and stronger than the piña cloth, which is hand loomed and more delicate. However, piña cloth is more expensive than jusi and is thus used for very formal events.

The barong industry is a major source of income for the Batangueños.

Other versions

The term "Barong Tagalog" is used almost exclusively to refer to the formal version of the barong; however, less formal versions of this national costume also exist.

  • Polo barong - The term "polo barong" refers to a short-sleeved version of the barong, often made with linen, ramie or cotton, often used as office wear. This is the least formal version of the barong.
  • "Gusot-mayaman" and linen barongs - Barongs that are not constructed with pina, jusi, or similarly delicate fabrics are generally considered less formal than the Barong Tagalog. Both "gusot-mayaman" and linen barongs are used for everyday office wear. The affectionate term "gusot-mayaman" ("gusot" means "wrinkled" and "mayaman" means "wealthy") refers to a cotton-polyester blend.

Controversy

At the 2007 Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC) summit in Sydney, Australia, a press release from the organizing committee described the Barong Tagalog, the Filipino's national costume for men, as a "peasant shirt." The Philippine Government is calling for clarifications regarding the said issue. An APEC media backgrounder said the "barong Tagalog" is a peasant shirt. [3]

References

  1. ^ www.exploring-mexico.com/2007/04/17/the-exotic-style-of-the-mexican-guayabera - "History has it that the Guayabera originated from Cuba and was made iconic in the Cuban culture but was inspired by the Philippines’ Barong Tagalog"
  2. ^ http://www.cubanet.org/CNews/y04/jul04/05e5.htm
  3. ^ http://www.abs-cbnnews.com/storypage.aspx?StoryID=91724

 
 
 

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