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bustle1

  (bŭs'əl) pronunciation
intr. & tr.v., -tled, -tling, -tles.

To move or cause to move energetically and busily.

n.

Excited and often noisy activity; a stir.

[Possibly variant of obsolete buskle, frequentative of busk, to prepare oneself, from Old Norse būask, reflexive of būa, to prepare.]


bus·tle2 (bŭs'əl) pronunciation
n.
  1. A frame or pad to support and expand the fullness of the back of a woman's skirt.
  2. A bow, peplum, or gathering of material at the back of a woman's skirt below the waist.

[Origin unknown.]


 
 

The simple dictionary description of a bustle is ‘a pad, or wire framework, worn beneath the skirt of a woman's dress, to expand it behind; a dress-improver’. This usage is found in the 1770s and is recorded in a letter to the Lady's Magazine of 1786. It is, essentially, a nineteenth-century term, used increasingly from the late 1820s until the disappearance of the bustle from fashionable dress in 1889. However, various aids to change the natural female anatomy at the back of the waist and around the hips had been devised from the fourteenth century onwards. These usually took the form of a padded roll tied around the waist and were depicted in contemporary engravings or caricatures. The practice of emphasizing one or more areas of the female anatomy is found throughout the history of fashionable dress and the bustle was only one in a considerable array of undergarments which assisted with this process. It is a wholly impractical structure which distorted the natural curves of the body. Today, examining surviving examples and reading the advertisements of the period, it is impossible not to admire the sheer ingenuity which informed the construction of an item destined not to be seen by anyone other than the wearer and her maid. Lightweight wire, collapsible steel, whalebone, horsehair, and inflatable gutta-percha were used at various times to create or strengthen bustles. They are a tribute to the nineteenth-century delight in new materials and techniques. Undoubtedly they were constricting but they are usually very light in weight and are, in their use of colour, pattern, and imaginative techniques, unintentionally, witty.

The rise and fall of the bustle spans nearly the whole of the nineteenth century. In the early years the high-waisted, fluid dresses only needed a small pad attached to the back of the waist, but this became fuller, and by 1815 it was a separate entity. Gradually, as the waistline reverted to a natural line in the 1820s and 1830s, the crescent-shaped pad became larger and could be layered with one or more additions of diminishing size. Rows of stiffened cotton, like starched frills, were also used or the two types were sometimes combined. By the late 1830s, when dress skirts were widening, a padding was inserted between the dress fabric and the lining to emphasize the area over the hips. This became a rounded, separate bustle once more between 1841 and 1846. By 1849 the discreet euphemism ‘dress-improver’ was in use, and by 1853 bustles were being made with rolls of crinoline (a mixture of horsehair and linen).

In the late 1860s, as fashions changed, leading to a flattening of the front of women's skirts but compensating by placing emphasis on back fullness, the crinolette (a streamlined, hooped petticoat with back emphasis only) and then the bustle gave support. Initially a few steel or whalebone strips were inserted into a petticoat to support the weight of the ruched-up back of the skirt, but a rounded structure of steel hoops, whalebone, or horsehair quickly became a permanent attachment to the top of the crinolette.

The terminology also changed with the introduction of the French word ‘tournure’ as yet another polite word for bustle. This was a structural, full-length petticoat with integral bustle, which emerged between 1870 and 1873. In 1871 it was reported that it rose ‘high above the waist and is of vast dimensions.’ A brief respite occurred in the mid to late 1870s until the final phase of the bustle began in 1881. It steadily increased in size until it reached its full magnitude in 1885 as an ugly but substantial shelf-like structure. These came in various styles and materials.

Full-length half crinolettes (like aprons but worn at the back and tied at the front) had frills of cloth, horizontal adjustable steels, horsehair padding; half-length versions had collapsible springs and, in line with the health-conscious reform lobby of the 1880s, ‘Health Braided Wire Bustles’ gained popularity. This American design was marketed as light, strong, pliable, and healthy; it came in several layered and rounded variants and sizes and was intended to support ‘the best shapes in the fashionable world’.

By 1890 the bustle had passed from fashion forever and although the term is still used it indicates back interest on a garment, such as bows, loops of fabric, a band of frilled, and layered fabric at the back of the waist — but not a structure under the garment.

— Valerie Cumming

Bibliography

  • Carter, A. (1992). Underwear: the fashion history. Batsford, London.
  • Newton, S. M. (1974). Health, art and reason: dress reformers of the nineteenth Century. John Murray, London.
  • Probert, C. (1981). Lingerie in Vogue since 1910. Thames and Hudson, London

See also clothes; erogenous zones; fashion; female form.

 
Thesaurus: bustle

verb

  1. To move swiftly: bolt, bucket, dart, dash, festinate, flash, fleet, flit, fly, haste, hasten, hurry, hustle, pelt, race, rocket, run, rush, sail, scoot, scour, shoot, speed, sprint, tear, trot, whirl, whisk, whiz, wing, zip, zoom. Informal hotfoot, rip. Slang barrel, highball. Chiefly British nip. Idioms: get a move on, get cracking, go like lightning, go like the wind, hotfoot it, make haste, make time, make tracks, run like the wind, shake a leg, stepjumpon it. See move/halt.
  2. To be nervously or uselessly active: fuss, putter. Informal mess around. See action/inaction, calm/agitation.

noun

    Agitated, excited movement and activity: flurry, stir, whirl, whirlpool. See calm/agitation.

 
Antonyms: bustle

n

Definition: quick and busy activity
Antonyms: laziness, relaxation


 
Word Tutor: bustle
pronunciation

IN BRIEF: To move very quickly; to hurry.

pronunciation Grandma likes to bustle around the kitchen while the family eats dinner.

 
Wikipedia: bustle
Bustle apparatus (1881)
Enlarge
Bustle apparatus (1881)


A bustle is a type of framework used to expand the fullness or support the drapery of the back of a woman's dress, occurring predominantly between the mid- to late 1800s. Bustles were worn under the skirt in the back, just below the waist, to keep the skirt from dragging. Heavy fabric tended to pull the back of a skirt down and flatten it. Thus, a woman's petticoated or crinolined skirt would lose its shape during everyday wear (from merely sitting down or moving about). The word "bustle" has become synonymous with the fashion to which the bustle was integral.

History

Transition from crinoline (1867-1872)

A US patent illustration of a concept crinoline/bustle. 1867
Enlarge
A US patent illustration of a concept crinoline/bustle. 1867

As the fashion for crinolines wore on, their shape changed. Instead of the large bell-like silhouette previously in vogue, they began to flatten out at the front and sides, creating more fullness at the back of the skirts. One type of crinoline, the crinolette, created a shape very similar to the one produced by a bustle. The excess skirt fabric created by this alteration in shape was looped around to the back, again creating increased fullness.

Early bustle (1869 - 1876)

The bustle later developed into a feature of fashion on its own after the overskirt of the late 1860s was draped up toward the back and some kind of support was needed for the new draped shape. Fullness of some sort was still considered necessary to make the waist look smaller and the bustle eventually replaced the crinoline completely. The bustle was worn in different shapes for most of the 1870s and 1880s, with a short period of non-bustled, flat-backed dresses from 1878 to 1882.

In the early stages of the fashion for the bustle, the fullness to the back of the skirts was carried quite low and often fanned out to create a train. The transition from the voluminous crinoline enhanced skirts of the 1850s and 1860s can be seen in the loops and gathers of fabric and trimmings worn during this period. The bustle later evolved into a much more pronounced humped shape on the back of the skirt immediately below the waist, with the fabric of the skirts falling quite sharply to the floor.

Late bustle (1881 - 1887)

It reappeared in late 1881,[1] and was exaggerated to become a major fashion feature in the mid-1880s, and ended in December 1887.[2]

1888-1913

It then survived into the 1890s and early 1900s as a skirt support was still needed and the stylish shape dictated a curve in the back of the skirt to balance the curve of the bust in front. The bustle had completely disappeared by 1905, as the long corset of the early twentieth century was now successful in shaping the body to protrude behind.

Fashion

The bustle was a typically Victorian fashion. Although most bustle gowns covered nearly all of a woman, the shape created by the combination of a bustle and corset (accentuating the rump, waist, and bosom) resulted in a highly erotic and idealized conception of femininity, possibly inspired by the exaggerated images of the South African woman known as "Hottentot Venus" exhibited throughout Europe in the first part of the 19th century.

Bustles and bustle gowns are rarely worn in contemporary society. Notable exceptions occur in the realm of haute couture and bridal fashion. A dress in the bustle style may be worn as a costume. For example, in 1993 Eiko Ishioka won an Academy Award for her costume designs from Bram Stoker's Dracula. The film features several extravagant bustle gowns created for female leads Winona Ryder and Sadie Frost.

Gallery

References

    See also

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    Translations: Translations for: Bustle

    Dansk (Danish)
    1.
    v. tr. - få til at skynde sig, sætte fut i
    v. intr. - fare rundt, have travlt
    n. - travlhed

    2.
    n. - tournure

    Nederlands (Dutch)
    drukte, gewoel, herrie, druk in de weer zijn, zich haastig bewegen

    Français (French)
    1.
    v. tr. - faire dépêcher (qn)
    v. intr. - s'affairer, s'activer
    n. - remue-ménage, mouvement

    2.
    n. - (Hist, Mode) faux cul, tournure

    Deutsch (German)
    1.
    v. - umhereilen, eifrig sein, sausen
    n. - Betrieb, Trubel, hastige Geschäftigkeit, Übereifer

    2.
    n. - Bausch, Tournüre

    Ελληνική (Greek)
    v. - πηγαινοέρχομαι όλο φούρια, κάνω (κάποιον) να βιαστεί
    n. - φασαρία, φούρια

    Italiano (Italian)
    calca

    Português (Portuguese)
    v. - estar atarefado, apressar-se
    n. - alvoroço (m), pressa (f), anquinhas (f pl)

    Русский (Russian)
    турнюр, суматоха, торопить

    Español (Spanish)
    1.
    v. tr. - ajetrear, animar
    v. intr. - hacer barullo, animarse
    n. - ajetreo, animación, barullo, movimiento, trajín

    2.
    n. - diligencia oficiosa

    Svenska (Swedish)
    v. - gno, jäkta, flänga, sätta fart, jaga
    n. - brådska, liv, larm, turnyr

    中文(简体) (Chinese (Simplified))
    1. 催促, 使忙碌, 闹哄哄地忙乱, 充满, 奔忙, 忙乱, 喧嚣

    2. 腰垫, 裙撑

    中文(繁體) (Chinese (Traditional))
    1.
    v. tr. - 催促, 使忙碌
    v. intr. - 鬧哄哄地忙亂, 充滿, 奔忙
    n. - 忙亂, 喧囂

    2.
    n. - 腰墊, 裙撐

    한국어 (Korean)
    1.
    v. tr. - ~을 서두르게 하다, ~을 소란하게 하다
    v. intr. - 활발하게 움직이다, 법석을 떨다
    n. - 야단 법석, 웅성거림

    2.
    n. - 허리받이

    日本語 (Japanese)
    v. - 大騒ぎする, せわしく動く, せきたてる
    n. - 大騒ぎ, ざわめき, バスル

    العربيه (Arabic)
    ‏(فعل) نشط في العمل, تحرك بهمه (الاسم) نشاط و حركه, ضوضاء, اطار للفساتين‏

    עברית (Hebrew)
    v. tr. - ‮הקים רעש, זירז, העביד קשה‬
    v. intr. - ‮עבד למראית-עין במרץ וביעילות, הקים רעש, התרוצץ, מיהר‬
    n. - ‮פעילות, המולה, תכונה‬
    n. - ‮כרית (מתחת לשמלה)‬


     
     

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    Dictionary. The American Heritage® Dictionary of the English Language, Fourth Edition Copyright © 2007, 2000 by Houghton Mifflin Company. Updated in 2007. Published by Houghton Mifflin Company. All rights reserved.  Read more
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