chain stitch

Traditional embroidery in chain stitch on a Kazakh rug, contemporary.

Chain stitch is a sewing and embroidery technique in which a series of looped stitches form a chain-like pattern.^[1] Chain stitch is an ancient craft - examples of surviving Chinese chain stitch embroidery worked in silk thread have been dated to the Warring States period (5th-3rd century BC).^[2] Handmade chain stitch embroidery does not require that the needle pass through more than one layer of fabric. For this reason the stitch is an effective surface embellishment near seams on finished fabric. Because chain stitches can form flowing, curved lines, they are used in many surface embroidery styles that mimic "drawing" in thread.^[3]

Chain stitches are also used in making tambour lace, needlelace, macramé and crochet.

Applications

Machine embroidery in chain stitch on a voile curtain, China, early 21st century.

Hand embroidery

Chain stitch and its variations are fundamental to embroidery traditions of many cultures, including Kashmiri numdahs, Iranian Resht work, Central Asian suzani, Hungarian Kalotaszeg "written embroidery",^[4], Jacobean embroidery, and crewelwork.

Machine sewing and embroidery

Chain stitch was the stitch used by early sewing machines; however, as it is easily unraveled from fabric, this was soon replaced with the more secure lockstitch. This ease of unraveling of the single-thread chain stitch, more specifically known as ISO 4915:1991 stitch 101, continues to be exploited for industrial purposes in the closure of bags for bulk products.^[5][6]

Machine embroidery in chain stitch, often in traditional hand-worked crewel designs, is found on curtains, bed linens, and upholstery fabrics.

Variants

"Drawing" or outlining in basic chain stitch

Variations of the basic chain stitch include:

• Back-stitched chain stitch
• Braid stitch
• Cable chain stitch
• Knotted chain stitch
• Open chain stitch
• Petal chain stitch
• Rosette chain stitch
• Singalese chain stitch
• Twisted chain stitch
• Wheat-ear stitch
• Zig-zag chain stitch

Stitch gallery

Braid stitch	Cable chain stitch	Knotted chain stitch	Open chain stitch
Petal chain stitch	Rosette chain stitch	Rosette chain line	Singalese chain stitch
Twisted chain stitch	Wheat-ear stitch	Zig-zag chain stitch

See also

• Embroidery stitch

Notes

1. ^ Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Needlework. The Reader's Digest Association, Inc. (March 1992). ISBN 0-89577-059-8, p. 32-33
2. ^ Gillow, John, and Bryan Sentance: World Textiles, Bulfinch Press/Little, Brown, 1999, ISBN 0-8212-2621-5, p. 178
3. ^ Gillow and Sentance: World Textiles, p. 178
4. ^ Gillow and Sentance: World Textiles, p. 178-179
5. ^ Union Special, Closing Machines BC100 and 80800, p. 2, http://www.unionspecial.de/ftp/literature/BagClosing.pdf, retrieved 2009-05-26 
6. ^ American & Efird, ISO Stitch Terminology, p. 1, http://www.amefird.com/stitchtypematrixflyer2.pdf, retrieved 2009-05-28 

External links

Kalotaszeg embroidery at MagyarMuseum.org

References

• Virginia Churchill Bath, Needlework in America, Viking Press, 1979 ISBN 0-670-50575-7
• S.F.A. Caulfield and B.C. Saward, The Dictionary of Needlework, 1885.
• Mrs. Archibald Christie. Samplers and Stitches, a handbook of the embroiderer's art, London 1920, 1989 facsimile: Batsford, ISBN 0-7134-4796-6, or online at Project Gutenberg
• John Gillow and Bryan Sentance: World Textiles, Bulfinch Press/Little, Brown, 1999, ISBN 0-8212-2621-5
• Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Needlework. The Reader's Digest Association, Inc., March 1992, ISBN 0-89577-059-8

v • d • e Sewing Techniques Basting · Cut · Darning · Dressmaker · Embellishment · Gather · Heirloom sewing · Pleat · Ruffle · Style line · Tailor · Gore · Gusset · Godet Stitches Backstitch · Blanket · Buttonhole · Chain stitch · Cross-stitch · Embroidery stitch · Lockstitch · Overlock · Running · Sashiko · Tack · Zigzag Seams Bound · Hong Kong · Inseam · Seam allowance · Seam types Notions Bias tape · Interfacing · Passementerie · Pattern · Simplicity · Trim · Twill tape Closures Button · Buttonhole · Frog · Hook-and-eye · Shank · Snap · Velcro · Zipper Materials Bias · Yarn/Thread · Selvage · Textiles/Fabric Tools Bobbin · Pin · Pincushion · Pinking shears · Scissors · Seam ripper · Sewing needle · Stitching awl · Tape measure · Thimble · Tracing paper · Tracing wheel · Upholstery needle Sewing machines Bernina · Brother Industries · Feed dogs · Pfaff · Sewing machine · Singer · Tapemaster

v • d • e Embroidery Styles: Assisi · Bargello · Berlin work · Blackwork · Broderie Anglaise · Broderie perse · Candlewicking · Canvas work · Counted-thread · Crewel · Cross-stitch · Cutwork · Darning · Drawn thread work · Free embroidery · Goldwork · Hardanger · Machine · Needlepoint · Quillwork · Smocking · Sprang · Stumpwork · Surface · Suzani · Trianglepoint · Whitework Stitches: Backstitch · Blanket · Brick · Buttonhole · Chain stitch · Couching and laid work · Cross stitches · Embroidery stitch · Featherstitch · Holbein · Parisian · Peyote · Running · Satin stitch · Sashiko · Shisha · Straight stitch · Tent stitch Tools and materials: Aida cloth · Embroidery hoop · Embroidery thread · Evenweave · Perforated paper · Plainweave · Plastic canvas · Sampler · Slip · Yarn Regional and historical: Art needlework · Bunka shishu · Brazilian · Chikan · Chinese · English  · Indian · Jacobean · Kaitag  · Kantha · Kasuti  · Korean · Mountmellick · Persian · Opus Anglicanum · Suzhou · Ukrainian  · Vietnamese · Zardozi Embroideries: Bayeux Tapestry · Bradford carpet · Hastings Embroidery · Hestia tapestry · Margaret Laton's jacket · New World Tapestry · Overlord embroidery · Quaker Tapestry Designers and Embroiderers: Leon Conrad · Kaffe Fassett · Juanita Growing Thunder Fogarty  · Marilyn Leavitt-Imblum · Ann Macbeth · May Morris · Charles Germain de Saint Aubin · Mary Elizabeth Turner  · Teresa Wentzler · Erica Wilson · Lily Yeats Organizations and Museums: Embroiderers' Guild (UK) · Embroiderer's Guild of America  · Embroidery Software Protection Coalition · Royal School of Needlework  · Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum  · Han Sang Soo Embroidery Museum  · Related: Applique · Crochet · Knitting · Lace · Needlework · Quilting