Chanel
| Chanel | |
|---|---|
 |
|
| Type | Privately held |
| Founded | 1910's |
| Headquarters | Paris, France |
| Industry | Fashion |
| Products | Clothing, footwear, handbags. |
| Website | www.chanel.com/ |
The House of Chanel , more commonly known as Chanel, is a Parisian fashion house in France founded by Gabrielle Bonheur "Coco" Chanel (b.1883 - d.1971). According to Forbes, the privately held House of Chanel is jointly owned by Alain Wertheimer and Gerard Wertheimer who are the grandsons of the early (1924) Chanel partner Pierre Wertheimer. [1] '
History
Chanel revolutionized haute couture fashion by completely replacing the traditional corset with the comfort and casual elegance of simple suits and dresses. She introduced to the world her signature cardigan jacket in 1925, introducing a more sultry and seductive definition to “sexy.” She had numerous other major successes that changed the fashion industry including the ever popular "'Chanel suit'", an elegant creation composed of a knee-length skirt and trim, boxy jacket, traditionally made of woven wool with black sewing trim and gold buttons, worn with large costume-pearl necklaces. Elite women of high societies around the world began to flock to the now legendary Rue Cambon boutique to commission couture outfits from her. The House of Chanel became an icon of elegance and from then on, the name “Chanel” became synonymous with elegance, wealth, and elitism, as well as the ultimate sign of French high class, la coquetterie.
After No. 5, Coco Chanel's fashions became even more well-known and were purchased by the high flyers of London and Paris society alike. Chanel took to living at the Hôtel Ritz Paris, and her suite of residence has become famous and is now named the "Coco Chanel Suite."
Chanel is also known for its quilted fabric which also has a "secret" quilting pattern sewn at the back to keep the material strong. This material is used for clothing and accessories alike. The brand is now headed by German-born designer Karl Lagerfeld, who also designs for the House of Fendi, as well as his namesake label.
The Coco Chanel Era
Coco Chanel, founder of the House of Chanel, began her fashion career in 1910. She heralded new designs and revolutionized the fashion industry by going “back to basics,” incorporating elegance, class, and originality. Under her tight reign from 1909-1971, Coco Chanel held the title as ‘Chief Designer’ until her death on January 10, 1971.
1909-1932
In 1909, Chanel opened a millinery shop, under the name of ‘Chanel Modes’, at 31 rue Cambon in Paris. Her hats were worn by famous French actresses who helped establish her reputation. Chanel introduced in 1913 women’s sportswear at her new boutique in Deauville, France. Her line of jersey clothing was a reaction to the lifestyle changes surrounding WWI. Coal was scarce and women were taking on factory jobs in the men's stead. They needed warm clothing that would stand up to working conditions. Her clothes of this time period were also greatly affected by the relatively new idea of women's sports. Chanel has continued in that trend, producing sports clothing, accessories, and equipment even more so today.
Her fashion became known in 1915 throughout France for prioritising freedom of movement by not featuring ostentation and redundancy in her designs. She affirmed the House’s style of authentic, fluid and comfortable lines. She then opened her first couture house in Biarritz, France, to introduce her other fashion lines.
1921 saw the introduction of her first perfume Chanel No. 5. It was internationally popular with women of high society in particular. “La Société des Parfums Chanel" was founded in 1924 to produce and sell perfumes and beauty products. Just before launching her first perfume, she met with a fortune teller, who told Coco that her lucky number was 5. So she named her scent "No. 5", and released it on the fifth day of the fifth month of the year, May 5.
1924 also greeted the first Chanel costume jewellery collection that Harper’s Bazaar described as “one of the most revolutionary designs of our time.”
In 1926, Chanel introduced the ‘little black dress,’ greeted by Vogue as the ‘new uniform of the modern woman.’ That same year, Chanel introduced the classic tweed. Inspired by visits to Scotland with the Duke of Westminster, Chanel created her first tweed suits.
Chanel premiered an exhibition of jewellery in 1932 dedicated to the diamond. Several of the pieces, including the ‘Comet’ and ‘Fountain’ necklaces were re-introduced by Chanel in 1993.
1935-1981
In 1939, she retired from fashion design and closed her popular couture house, Only her perfumes and accessories were sold at Chanel’s boutiques.
Coming out of fashion retirement at the age of 71, Chanel re-opened the couture house in 1954. Her first show received international acclaim, with her signature jersey suit being introduced that bore her favourite number: 5. In 1955, Chanel introduced the quilted bag with the shoulder strap, a bag that shook the fashion world. That same year, Chanel launched her first eau de toilette for men, Pour Monsieur.
In 1957 at the Fashion Awards in Dallas, Chanel and her spring collection received the Fashion Oscar. The fashion world applauded her as the ‘most influential designer of the twentieth century.’
On January 10, 1971, Coco Chanel died, ending an era of revolutionary fashion that would still be the classic model fashion designers today find inspiration in.
However, her influence did not pass with her death. Other posthumous projects came to light a few years later. In 1974, the House of Chanel launched Cristalle eau de toilette, which was in the workings when Coco Chanel was alive. 1978 saw the launch of the first non-couture, prêt-à-porter line and worldwide distribution of accessories. In 1981, Chanel launched a new eau de toilette for men, Antaeus.
She also has a distant relative of the same first name living in Perth, Australia.
The Karl Lagerfeld Era
Karl Lagerfeld would become one of the most iconic designers of recent times. With his flashy sense of style combined with a strong vision of a new Chanel, Lagerfeld brought the couture house to new levels, and is still continuing to woo and awe the fashion world.
1983 was the year of change for the House of Chanel. It was the year Karl Lagerfeld was appointed ‘Artistic Director’ for Chanel Fashion, including haute couture, prêt-à-porter, and accessories. He shocked the fashion world by changing Chanel’s fashion lines from the predictable same styles that greeted world year after year to funky cuts and eye capturing designs. In 1984, the House of Chanel launched the fragrance, Coco, in honour of the late Coco Chanel. In 1986, the House of Chanel struck a deal with watchmakers and in 1987, the first Chanel watch made its debut. 1990 saw the launchĹŹ1996 greeted the launch of Allure fragrance and due to its immense popularity, a men’s version, Allure Homme was launched in 1998. The House of Chanel launched its first skin care line, PRÉCISION in 1999. That same year, Chanel launched a new travel collection, and under a license contract with Luxottica, introduced a line of sunglasses and eyeglass frames. The new millennium saw the launch of the first unisex watch for Chanel, the J12, a style that has reached iconic fame with its clean cuts and fusion of masculinity and femininity to form a revolutionary watch. To please the younger fashionistas, Chanel introduced Coco Mademoiselle and an ‘In-Between Wear’ in 2003. 2002 saw the launch of Chance fragrance, with a scent of surprise and glamour. The House of Chanel founded the Paraffection company that gathered the five Ateliers d’Art: Desrues for ornamentation, Lemarié for feathers and camellias, Lesage for embroiderer, Massaro for shoemaker, and Michel for millinery. A prêt-à-porter collection proposing their know-how was designed by Karl Lagerfeld. It is now traditionally presented each December. 2003 saw such an immense popularity of Chanel haute couture that the company founded a second atelier on rue Cambon. The sunglasses brand is a brand of Italian Luxottica Group. The No. 5 perfume had always received free campaigns from actresses and starlets that used it daily, including Marilyn Monroe, Nicole Kidman, and Vanessa Paradis.
2005-Present
The Luxury Line, introduced in 2006 featuring a metal chain embedded in the leather, is one of the most desired "it" bags of the moment.
The House of Chanel, under the leadership of Karl Lagerfeld, has defined the style and fashion of Chanel as being the five essentials: audacious, perfectionist, unique, passionate, and visionary.
U.S. boutiques
Chanel boutiques are found in all multiple cities across the United States which include:
Beverly Hills - New York City at Madison Avenue, Fifth Avenue, and SoHo.
- South Coast Plaza
Boston at Newbury Street- Natick Collection in Natick, MA (Coming Soon)
- San Francisco at Union Square
- McLean, VA at Tysons Galleria
- Aspen, CO
- Houston
Dallas - Bal Harbour
- Palm Beach, FL
- Palm Beach Gardens, FL
- Chicago
- Waikiki
Honolulu
Also, available at high end department stores such as Sak's Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, and Bergdorf Goodman.
The Iconic Logotype
The Chanel logotype is an interlocking double-C, one facing forwards the other facing backwards. This derives from the name Coco Chanel. "Coco" is the nickname frequently used by Chanel founder, Gabrielle Chanel. The logotype was not trade-marked until during the first openings of Chanel stores.
Chanel is currently dealing with illegal use of the double-C logotype on cheaper goods, especially fake handbags. Countries said to be producing great numbers of fake Chanel handbags are Vietnam, Thailand, and China. An authentic Chanel handbag retails from around $1,500, while a fake usually costs around $100, creating a demand for the signature style at a cheaper price.
No. 5 The Film
Chanel has launched a new advertising film that casts Nicole Kidman as the new face of Chanel No. 5. It was motioned and produced by Baz Luhrmann (director of Moulin Rouge as well as the 1996 modern version of [[Romeo+Juliet]]) and was shot on location in Sydney. Kidman takes on the role of the most famous woman in the world while Brazilian Model/Actor Rodrigo Santoro plays a struggling writer who falls in love with Kidman. The advert lasts 3 minutes, and took many months of pre and post production. Also, about 26 million euros where spent, making No. 5 The Film one of the most expensive advertisements in history.[1]
Coco Mademoiselle (Le Film)
Recently, the young Academy Award-nominated actress Keira Knightley was announced as the new face of Coco Mademoiselle, a fragrance intended for the younger fans of Chanel. A short advertising film was made starring Knightley, who subsequently plays Coco Chanel herself, clad in a bowler hat and short styled bob. The film was directed by the BAFTA-winning English film director Joe Wright, who has also worked with Knightley in his award-winning film Pride & Prejudice and Atonement.
Footnotes
Links
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