A Charvet fabric is woven of silk or acetate in warp-faced rib weave, of a reversed reps type[1] with a double ridge effect.[2] It is characterized by a soft handle[3] and shiny appearance.[4] The bindings create a herringbone effect parallel to the warp, which make this weave suitable for creating faint diagonal stripe effects for ties, for which the fabric is cut on the bias. Patterns on this base are often made with supplemantary weft. The fabric has also been used for scarves[5] and robes.[6]
This weave is based on the Régence weave, a kind of reps with all weft raised on the backside,[7] which was popular during the regency of Philippe II, Duke of Orléans (lasting from 1715 to 1723). The fabric's name derives from its frequent[8] and "clever"[9] use in the 19th century by the Parisian shirtmaker Charvet. Since the beginning of the 20th century, the weave is rather found in solid fabrics for semi formal wear.[10]
Sources
- ^ Schoeffler, Oscar E. (1973). Esquire's Encyclopedia of 20th Century Men's Fashions. McGraw-Hill. p. 651. ISBN 0070554803.
- ^ Schoeffler, Oscar E. (1966). Esquire fashions for men. Harper & Row. p. 219.
- ^ Barnum Wingate, Isabel (1949). Textile Fabrics and Their Selection. Prentice-Hall.
- ^ Tortora, Phylis G. (1996). Fairchild's Dictionary of Textiles. Fairchild Publications. p. 466. ISBN 0870057073.
- ^ advertising (October 7, 1913). "Gimbels" (fee required). New York Times. ""There are scarfs of Charvet cloth, in a soft ribbed texture, which seems to come unwrinkled by itself after being mussed"
- ^ "Wide variety of robes will suit all tastes". Chicago Tribune. September 17, 1952.
- ^ Hardouin-Figuier, Elisabeth (1994) (in French). Les Etoffes, dictionnaire historique. Paris: Editions de l'amateur. p. 320. ISBN 2859171754.
- ^ advertising (November 14, 1913). "Gimbels". New York Times. "an effect used extensively by Charvet, the famous shirtmaker of Paris"
- ^ Bianchi, Ettore (1997). Dizionario internazionale dei tessuti. Como: Tessile di Como. p. 344.
- ^ "Business World". New York Times. October 3, 1914. http://query.nytimes.com/mem/archive-free/pdf?res=9E05E6D71638E633A25750C0A9669D946596D6CF. Retrieved on 2008-10-21.
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