corn snake
The noun has one meaning:
Meaning #1:
large harmless snake of southeastern United States; often on farms
Synonyms: red rat snake, Elaphe guttata
|
Results for Corn Snake
|
On this page:
|
The noun has one meaning:
Meaning #1:
large harmless snake of southeastern United States; often on farms
Synonyms: red rat snake, Elaphe guttata
| Corn Snake | ||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Scientific classification | ||||||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||||||
| Binomial name | ||||||||||||||||
| Elaphe guttata Linnaeus, 1766 |
The Corn Snake (Elaphe guttata guttata) or Red Rat Snake (Pantherophis guttatus) is a species of Rat Snake. A Corn Snake suffocates its prey by wrapping its body around it. Constricting prey is a basic instinct for snakes and they will perform this action in the wild and in captivity. Like any animal its temperament and behavior is different for each snake. Corn snakes are generally docile and make excellent pets. Their average adult length is about 1.2 to 1.8 metres (4–6 ft) fully grown, and they can live up to 20 years. They are found throughout the south-eastern and central United States as well as parts of Mexico. The name 'Corn Snake' refers to the splotched pattern on its belly, which resembles Indian maize. Some, however, believe it is because they are often found in corn fields where they search for rodent prey.
There are two subspecies of Pantherophis guttatus:
Corn snakes are constrictors.
In 2002, all North American rat snakes of the genus Elaphe were suggested for reclassification into the genus Pantherophis, thus changing the scientific name of the Corn Snake from Elaphe guttata to Pantherophis guttatus, however many people have not accepted the change, and it is still widely referred to as Elaphe.
In 2003 Herpetological Review rejected the change from Elaphe to Pantherophis on the basis that further research was needed. Furthermore, the International Committee for Zoological Nomenclature has not ruled on the change. Taxonomic changes do not become official until they are approved by the ICZN, until such time any published articles with reclassification of the taxonomic names are regarded as taxonomic suggestions. Official taxonomy, whether used or not, remains with the older nomenclature until changes are approved by the ICZN.
Wild Corn Snakes prefer habitats such as overgrown fields, forest openings, trees, and abandoned or seldom used buildings and farms, from sea level up to as high as 6,000 feet. They can be found in the South Eastern USA ranging from New Jersey to the Florida keys and as far west as Texas.
In the wild, Corn Snakes tend to be quite secretive and appear mostly at night (nocturnal) or during the twilight hours (crepuscular). During daylight hours they may be found hiding under loose tree bark and beneath logs, rocks, and other debris. In colder regions, snakes hibernate during winter. However, in the more temperate climate along the coast they shelter in rock crevices and logs during cold weather and come out on warm days to soak up the heat of the sun. During cold weather, snakes are less active and therefore hunt less.
Corn Snakes have a diet primarily consisting of rodents, but they are proficient climbers and may scale trees in search of birds and bats. As litters of infant mice are difficult to find in nature, many neonate Corn Snakes are known to eat small lizards as their first meals, and Carolina anoles are the preferred choice.[citation needed] Some individuals retain these dietary tendencies well into adulthood. Pet Corn Snakes are usually fed by their owners on a diet of commercially available rodents, predominantly mice, though larger specimens may eat rat "pups".
The Corn Snake was one of the first snakes to be kept in captivity of humans.[2] Corn snakes are one of the most common snakes available in the pet trade due to their gentle nature, ease of care, low maintenance, manageable size, lack of fangs, non-venomous, and the wide variety of patterns, colors, and morphs available to choose from. These snakes are excellent escape artists and will escape their enclosure if not properly fastened. More beginners lose their snakes to escapes than death.[3] Large numbers are bred annually ensuring that there is a large captive-bred population, lifting the need to collect specimens from the wild.
Hatchling Corn Snakes are often kept in small deli-cups for the first few months of their lives. Once purchased, a 5 to 10 gallon (19 to 38 L) aquarium or similar-sized plastic tub makes a suitable home. It is very important to have a housing with absolutely no chance of escape. Corn snakes are very good at climbing and squeezing out of very small holes. They can also use their bodies to push the screen top off of poorly fitted aquarium. As they grow they will require more space. The minimum recommended size of housing for an adult is a 20 gallon (76 liter) tank. A 40 gallon (152 L) is a good recommended size and will provide the adult snake room for exercise and room to move. Keep in mind, however, that Corn Snakes will become stressed out in too large of a cage, it is a good idea to use plants and many hiding spots in a large tank so that the snake will feel secure.
It is very important to have proper heating for Corn Snakes to aid in the proper digestion of food inside of their stomach. If proper heating is not met, the snake can regurgitate its previously eaten meals and can lead to death if repeated too many times. A heat gradient from 70–75 °F (21–24 °C) on one end of the housing to 80–85 °F (26–29 °C) on the other is optimal to allow the snake to regulate its body temperature. Heat can be provided by a snake specific temperature controlled under tank heating pads or well protected basking lights. Snakes are prone to burns from too hot heat pads or exposed light bulbs that are inside of the enclosure. A thermostat or rheostat is essential to regulate the heat source. If the temperature controlled under tank heating pads are not thermostat or rheostat controlled it is very possible for the pad to reach 130 °F, which will burn the snake. The snake will not avoid these extremely hot heat sources because of the lack of feeling they have on their scales. Heat lamps can be turned off at night and temperatures can dip as low at 65 °F (18 °C) but it is preferred that the temperatures stay constant. Lights should be turned off at night to allow a natural light and darkness cycle, though dim red or blue lights can be used at night time.
Aspen or cypress shavings make great bedding, reptile carpet, newsprint or paper towel also work. Corn snakes love to dwell and dig under the substrate to give themselves a sense of security. Feces should be removed by spot cleaning regularly and the whole tank should be washed and disinfected periodically. All of the bedding should be replaced at the time of a full tank cleaning.
Cohabitation is a hotly debated issue, many critics believe it is stressful for Corn Snakes as they are not naturally communal animals. There are also health concerns from premature breeding and egg binding to regurgitation issues and spreading of parasites like mites. Cannibalism is very uncommon but not unheard of, often caused by feeding snakes in the same enclosure. Others have had success with cohabitation but even then most proponents of the idea discourage against housing more than 2 or 3 adults together and snakes of opposite gender should not be housed together beyond 12-18 months to prevent pre-mature breeding. Additional hiding places should be provided for snakes seeking solitude.
Juveniles can be fed pinky mice once or twice weekly; adults do well on large mice once every 1 or 2 weeks. A general rule for food size is that up to 11⁄2 the snake's body girth is acceptable. Handling should be avoided for a full 48 hours or until the meal is digested and no lump can be seen in the snake's belly. Many owners suggest feeding in a bin outside of the snake's housing so that there is no chance of the snake of accidentally ingesting its bedding which can lead to impaction of the item in its internal digestive system and can lead to death. Corn Snakes should always be fed alone and not with another snake. If two snakes try to feed on the same prey they can inadvertently eat each other. Previously frozen and then thawed out prey vs live prey is another debated topic, however feeding frozen/thawed mice instead of live prey is advisable for snakes in captivity due to the risk of injury.[4] Live mice and rats have sharp teeth and claws and they can use them in a defensively manner against Corn snakes - this can result in serious injury or death. It is also considered to be animal cruelty and therefore illegal to feed live prey in some nations, such as The United Kingdom.[5]
The below chart is a good general guideline to accurately feed your Corn Snake with mice to provide the much needed nutrition it needs. Prey should not be bigger than 11⁄2 the snake's body girth. Each snake is different and you should adjust the snake's meals size, quantity, and the frequency accordingly.
| Snake weight | Mouse Type | Mouse weight | Frequency |
|---|---|---|---|
| 4–15 g | Single Pinky | 2–3 g | 4–5 days |
| 16–23 g | Double Pinky | 2–3 g times two | 4–5 days |
| 24–30g | Small fuzzies | 5–7 g | 5–6 days |
| 30–50 g | Regular fuzzies | 7–9 g | 5–6 days |
| 51–90 g | Hoppers | 9–12 g | 5–6 days |
| 91–170 g | Weaned | 14–20 g | 7 days |
| 170–400 g | Adult | 24–30 g | 7 to ? days |
| 400g+ | Jumbo Adults | 40–50 g | 7 to ? days |
Chart provided by D. Arnold
Note: Adult females are fed more frequently than adult males (especially following brumation.) The weight ranges for the prey and snakes are approximate. Instead of feeding two pinkies it is possible to substitute them for a single large pinky, often about 50–100% larger than small pinkies. When buying food in bulk it is difficult to guesstimate how many of a specific size mice is needed until the snake is large enough to move onto the next size. It is acceptable to feed two mice in one single feeding if the snake does not show a significant lump in its stomach after feeding and the owner has leftover prey items. However, this should not be practiced for a long period of time due to the fact that a single larger prey item will contain more nutrients than two smaller prey items. The snake will benefit from the addition nutrients of the larger prey versus the two smaller items.
Some larger females have been known to consume up to six large mice in one feeding. There have also been reports of an aggressive Corn Snake killing two mice at one time, one in its mouth the second coiled in its long body.
Corn snakes need a water dish big enough to soak their whole body in and need to have access to clean water at all times. Many cities and towns have water that is unsuitable for Corn Snakes so it is advisable to use bottled water or to use a reptile water conditioner to make the water safe for the snake to drink. Unfiltered water can lead to dehydration, digestive issues and other various health problems.
After many generations of selective breeding, domesticated Corn Snakes are found in a wide variety of different colors and patterns. These result from recombining the dominant and recessive genes that code for proteins involved in chromatophore development, maintenance or function. New and interesting variations, or morphs become available every year as breeders gain a better understanding of the genetics involved.
This entry is from Wikipedia, the leading user-contributed encyclopedia. It may not have been reviewed by professional editors (see full disclaimer)
Join the WikiAnswers Q&A community. Post a question or answer questions about "Corn Snake" at WikiAnswers.
Copyrights:
![]() | WordNet. WordNet 1.7.1 Copyright © 2001 by Princeton University. All rights reserved. Read more | |
![]() | Wikipedia. This article is licensed under the GNU Free Documentation License. It uses material from the Wikipedia article "Corn Snake". Read more |