cosmetic

 

preparations externally applied to change or enhance the beauty of skin, hair, nails, lips, and eyes. The use of body paint for ornamental and religious purposes has been common among primitive peoples from prehistoric times (see body-marking). Ointments, balms, powders, and hair dyes have also been used from ancient times. Many cosmetics originated in Asia, but their ingredients and use are first recorded in Egypt; ancient tombs have yielded cosmetic jars (called kohl pots) and applicators (called cosmetic spoons). The Egyptians used kohl to darken their eyes; a crude paint was used on the face, and fingers were often dyed with henna. Greek women used charcoal pencils and rouge sticks of alkanet and coated their faces with powder, which often contained dangerous lead compounds. Beauty aids reached a peak in imperial Rome—especially chalk for the face and a rouge called fucus—and ladies required the services of slaves adept in their use.

Many cosmetics survived the Middle Ages, and Crusaders brought back rare Eastern oils and perfumes. In the Renaissance, cosmetics, usually white-lead powder and vermilion, were used extravagantly. From the 17th cent. recipes and books on the toilette abounded. Professional cosmetologists began to appear, and luxurious prescriptions often included a bath in wine or milk. Reaching its height in 1760, the use of cosmetics virtually disappeared with the advent of the French Revolution.

The year 1900 saw a revival of their use, accompanied by the manufacture of beauty aids on a scientific basis in France. Since then the industry has grown to tremendous proportions with products manufactured for every conceivable use. In the United States, cosmetics intended for interstate commerce are controlled under the federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act of 1938. Spearheaded by companies founded by Helena Rubinstein, Elizabeth Arden, Estée Lauder, and other women and by their male counterparts, e.g., Charles Revson, the cosmetics business flourished throughout the later 20th cent. By the beginning of the 21st cent. the cosmetics industry was mostly run by large corporations and had become a multibillion dollar enterprise.

Bibliography

See L. Woodhead, War Paint (2004).

Cosmetics ( pronunciation: cosmetic?) are substances used to enhance or protect the appearance or odor of the human body. Cosmetics include skin-care creams, lotions, powders, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail and toenail polishes, eye and facial makeup, permanent waves, hair colors, hair sprays and gels, deodorants, baby products, bath oils, bubble baths, bath salts, butters and many other types of products. Their use is widespread, especially among women in Western countries. A subset of cosmetics is called "make-up," which refers primarily to colored products intended to alter the user’s appearance. The manufacture of cosmetics is currently dominated by a small number of multinational corporations that originated in the early 20th century, but the distribution and sale of cosmetics is spread among a wide range of different businesses. The U.S. FDA which regulates cosmetics in the United States^[1] defines cosmetics as: "intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body's structure or functions." This broad definition includes, as well, any material intended for use as a component of a cosmetic product. The FDA specifically excludes soap from this particular category.^[2]

History

Main article: History of cosmetics

The first archaeological evidence of cosmetics usage is found in Ancient Egypt around 4000 BC. The Ancient Greeks and Romans also used cosmetics. The Romans and Ancient Egyptians used cosmetics containing poisonous mercury and often lead, which continues to be used today.^[3] The Biblical book of Esther describes various beauty treatments.

In the western world, the advent of cosmetics was in the middle ages, although typically restricted to use within the upper classes.

Cosmetic use was frowned upon at some points in history. For example, in the 1800s, make-up was used primarily by prostitutes, and Queen Victoria publicly declared makeup improper, vulgar, and acceptable for use by actors, only.^[3] Adolf Hitler told women that face painting was for clowns and not for the women of the Master Race.

By the middle of the 20th century, cosmetics were in widespread use in nearly all societies around the world.

Cosmetics have been in use for thousands of years. The absence of regulation of the manufacture and use of cosmetics has led to negative side effects, deformities, blindness, and even death through the ages. Examples of this were the prevalent use of ceruse, or white lead, to cover the face during the Renaissance, and blindness caused by the mascara Lash Lure during the early 1900's.

Industry Today

The worldwide annual expenditures for cosmetics is estimated at U.S. $18 billion.^[4] Of the major firms, the oldest and the largest is L'Oréal, which was founded by Eugene Schueller in 1909 as the French Harmless Hair Colouring Company (now owned by Liliane Bettencourt 27.5% and Nestlé 26.4%, with the remaining 46.1% are publicly traded). The market was developed in the USA during the 1910s by Elizabeth Arden, Helena Rubinstein, and Max Factor. These firms were joined by Revlon just before World War II and Estée Lauder just after.

The cosmetic industry does not want to be regulated by the government/FDA and has lobbied against this throughout the years.

Criticism and controversy

The popularity of cosmetics in the 20th century has increased rapidly. Especially in the United States, cosmetics are being used by girls at a younger and younger age. Many companies have catered to this expanding market by introducing more flavored lipsticks and glosses, cosmetics packaged in glittery, sparkly packaging and marketing and advertising using young models. The social consequences of younger and younger beautification has had much attention in the media over the last few years.

Criticism of cosmetics has come from a variety of sources, including feminists, animal rights activists, books, and public interest groups. There is a growing awareness and preference for cosmetics that are without any toxic ingredients, especially those derived from petroleum, SLS, and parabens.^[5]

Numerous published reports have raised concern over the safety of a few surfactants. SLS causes a number of skin issues including dermatitis.^{[6][7][8][9][10]}

Parabens can cause skin irritation and contact dermatitis in individuals with paraben allergies, a small percentage of the general population.^[11] Animal experiments have shown that parabens have a weak estrogenic activity, acting as xenoestrogens.^[12]

Synthetic fragrances are widely used in consumers products. Studies concluded from patch testing, show synthetic fragrances are made of many allergic reaction ingredients.^[13]

Further information: Skin Deep (EWG), Environmental Working Group, Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, and California Safe Cosmetics Act of 2005.

Types

The various forms of makeup include:

• Lipstick, lip gloss, lip liner, lip plumper, lip balm, lip luster, lip conditioner and lip boosters.^[1]
• Foundation, used to color the face and conceal flaws to produce an impression of health and youth. Usually a liquid, cream, powder or mousse.^[1]
• Powder, or face illuminator used to set the foundation, giving a matte finish.
• Rouge, blush or blusher, cheek stain used to color the cheeks and emphasize the cheekbones. This comes in powder, cream and gel forms.^[1]
• Bronzer, used to create a more tanned or sun-kissed look.^[1]
• Mascara and lash extender, lash conditioner used to enhance the eyelashes. Can be of different colors and even waterproof. ^[1]
• Eye liner and eye shadow, eye shimmer and glitter eye pencils as well as different color pencils used to color and emphasize the eyelids (larger eyes are a sign of youth).^[1]
• Eyebrow pencils, creams, waxes, gels and powders are used to fill in and define the brows.^[1]
• Nail polish, used to color the fingernails and toenails.^[1]
• Concealer, a type of thick opaque makeup used to cover pimples, various spots and inconsistencies in the skin.^[1]

Also included in the general category of cosmetics are skin care products. These include creams and lotions to moisturize the face and body, sunscreens to protect the skin from damaging UV radiation, and treatment products to repair or hide skin imperfections (acne, wrinkles, dark circles under eyes, etc.). Cosmetics can also be described by the form of the product, as well as the area for application. Cosmetics can be liquid or cream emulsions; powders, both pressed and loose; dispersions; and anhydrous creams or sticks.

Special Effects

In addition to over-the-counter cosmetic products, recent years have seen an increasing market for prescription or surgical cosmetic procedures. These range from temporary enhancements, such as cosmetic colored contact lenses, to major cosmetic surgery.

Many techniques, such as microdermabrasion and chemical or physical peels, remove the oldest, top layers of skin cells. The younger layers of skin left behind appear more plump, youthful, and soft. Permanent application of pigments (tattooing) is also used cosmetically.

Ingredients

Main article: Ingredients of cosmetics

While there is assurance from the largest cosmetic companies that their various ingredients are safe, there is a growing preference for cosmetics that are without any "synthetic" ingredients, especially those derived from petroleum. Once a niche market, certified organic products are becoming more mainstream.

A dangerously large ammout of lead and lead based products continue to be used in cosmetics, especially in lipsticks, by such companies as MAC, Dior, Body Shop, L'Oreal, Revlon and Burt's Bees. This issue occurs mainly in in the USA & Canada, because the FDA, or Food and Drug Administration fails to regulate the industry to a reasonable extent, only recommending that less than 1 ppm of lead is used.

Ingredients' listings in cosmetics are highly regulated in many countries. The testing of cosmetic products on animals is a subject of some controversy. It is now illegal in the United Kingdom, the Netherlands, and Belgium, and a ban across the European Union is due to come into effect in 2009.

See also

• Testing cosmetics on animals
• Body art
• Cosmeceutical
• Cosmetic surgery
• Henna
• Permanent makeup
• Society of Cosmetic Chemists
• Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association
• Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act

References

1. ^ ^{a b c d e f g h i j}
2. ^ Lewis, Carol. FDA. "Clearing up Cosmetic Confusion." 2000. May 14, 2007. [1]
3. ^ ^{a b} Johnson, Rita. Chemical & Engineering News. "What's that Stuff?" 1999. May 14, 2007. [2]
4. ^ "As Consumerism Spreads, Earth Suffers, Study Says", National Geographic, pp. 2. Retrieved on 2007-08-21. 
5. ^ "Signers of the Compact for Safe Cosmetics", Campaign for Safe Cosmetics. Retrieved on 2007-07-05. 
6. ^ Agner T. Susceptibility of atopic dermatitis patients to irritant dermatitis caused by sodium lauryl sulphate. Acta Derm Venereol. 1991;71(4):296-300. PMID 1681644
7. ^ A. Nassif, S. C. Chan, F. J. Storrs and J. M. Hanifin. Abstract: Abnormal skin irritancy in atopic dermatitis and in atopy without dermatitis. Arch Dermatol. November 1994;130(11):1402. Abstract
8. ^ Marrakchi S, Maibach HI. Sodium lauryl sulfate-induced irritation in the human face: regional and age-related differences. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2006;19(3):177-80. Epub 2006 May 4. PMID 16679819
9. ^ CIR publication. Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate. Journal of the American College of Toxicology. 1983 Vol. 2 (No. 7) pages 127-181.
10. ^ Loffler H, Effendy I. Skin susceptibility of atopic individuals. Department of Dermatology, University of Marburg, Germany. Contact Dermatitis. 1999 May;40(5):239-42. PMID 10344477
11. ^ Nagel JE, Fuscaldo JT, Fireman P. Paraben allergy. JAMA. 1977, Apr 11; 237(15):1594-5. Abstract
12. ^ Byford JR, Shaw LE, Drew MG, Pope GS, Sauer MJ, Darbre PD. Oestrogenic activity of parabens in MCF7 human breast cancer cells. J Steroid Biochem Mol Biol. 2002 Jan;80(1):49-60. PMID 11867263
13. ^ "Patch testing with fragrances: results of a multicenter study of the European Environmental and Contact Dermatitis Research Group with 48 frequently used constituents of perfumes", Contact Dermatitis, November 1995. Retrieved on 2007-07-05. 

Further reading

• Winter, Ruth [2005]. A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients in Cosmetics (Paperback) (in English). USA: Three Rivers Press. ISBN 1400052335. 

• Begoun, Paula [2003]. Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me(Paperback) (in English). USA: Beginning Press. ISBN 1877988308. 

External links

• tiac
• meet mark
• The British Library - finding information on the cosmetics and toiletries industry
• List of Prohibited and Restricted Cosmetic Ingredients (Health Canada)
• Beauty & Cosmetics Forum
• Cosmetics Discussion Forum
• CTPA The UK trade Association

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