This article is about the material
denim. For the band of the same name, see
Denim (band).
Denim as used for blue jeans, with a copper rivet to strengthen the pocket.
Denim, in American usage since the late eighteenth century, [1] denotes a rugged cotton twill
textile, in which the weft passes under two (twi- "double")
or more warp fibers, producing the familiar diagonal ribbing identifiable on the reverse
of the fabric, which distinguishes denim from cotton duck. The word comes from the name of a
sturdy fabric called serge, originally made in Nimes, France, by the Andre family. Originally called serge de Nimes, the name was
soon shortened to denim.[citation needed] Denim was traditionally colored blue with indigo dye to make blue "jeans," though "jean" then denoted a different,
lighter cotton textile; the contemporary use of jean comes from the French word for Genoa,
Italy (Gênes), from which the first denim trousers were made.
A similarly woven traditional American cotton textile is the diagonal warp-striped hickory cloth that was once associated with
railroadmen's overalls, in which blue or black contrasting with undyed white threads form the woven pattern. Hickory cloth was
characterized as being as rugged as hickory wood—not to mention the fact that it was deemed to
be worn mainly by "hicks"—although neither may be the origin of that term [from a nickname for "Richard"]. Records of a group of
New Yorkers headed for the California gold fields in 1849 show that they took along four "hickory shirts" apiece. Hickory cloth
would later furnish the material for some "fatigue" pantaloons and shirts in the American
Civil War.
The word dungarees, to identify heavy cotton pants such as overalls can be traced to a
thick cotton country-made cloth, Dongari Kapar, which was sold in the quarter contiguous to the Dongari Killa, the fort of
what was then known as Bombay (Hobson Johnson
Dictionary). The word entered English with just this meaning in 1696 (OED). Dongri Fort was rebuilt in 1769 as Fort George, Bombay, where the first cotton mill
was established in 1854. Dyed in indigo, the traditional cloth was used by Portuguese sailors and cut wide so that the legs could
be swiftly rolled up when necessary. Thus, dungarees have a separate history.
Dry denim
Dry denim can be identified by its lack of a wash, or "fade". It typically starts out as the dark blue color pictured here.
Dry denim, as opposed to washed denim, is a denim fabric that is not washed after being dyed during its production.
Most denim is washed after being crafted into an article of clothing in order to make it softer and to eliminate any shrinkage
which could cause an item to not fit after the owner washes it. In addition to being washed, non-dry denim is sometimes
artificially "distressed" to achieve a worn-in look.
Much of the appeal of dry denim lies in the fact that with time the fabric will fade in a manner similar to factory distressed
denim. With dry denim, however, such fading is affected by the body of the person who wears the jeans and the activities of their
daily life. This creates what many enthusiasts feel to be a more natural, unique look than pre-distressed denim.
To facilitate the natural distressing process, some wearers of dry denim will often abstain from washing their jeans for more
than six months[2], though it is not a necessity for
fading.
Predominantly found in premium denim lines, dry denim represents a small niche in the overall market.
Selvage denim
Selvage on a pair of
Cheap Monday jeans
Selvage denim (sometimes called selvedge denim) is a type of denim which forms a clean natural edge that does
not unravel. It is commonly presented in the unwashed or raw state. Typically, the selvage edges will be located along the
outseam of the pants, making it visible when cuffs are worn. Although selvage denim is not completely synonymous with unwashed
denim, the presence of selvage typically implies that the denim used is a higher quality.
The word "selvage" comes from the phrase "self-edge" and denotes denim made on old-style shuttle looms. These looms weave fabric with one continuous cross thread (the
weft) that is passed back and forth all the way down the length of the bolt. As the weft loops back
into the edge of the denim it creates this “self-edge” or Selvage. Selvage is desirable because it can’t fray like lower grade
denims that have separate wefts which leave an open edge that must be stitched. Shuttle looming is a more time-consuming weaving
process that produces denim of a tighter weave resulting in a heavier weight fabric that lasts.
Shuttle looms weave a more narrow piece of fabric, and thus a longer piece of fabric is
required to make a pair of jeans (approximately 3 yards). To maximize yield, traditional jean makers use the fabric all the way
to the selvage edge. When the cuff is turned up the two selvage edges, where the denim is sewn together, can be seen. The selvage
edge is usually stiched with colored thread: green, white, brown, yellow, and red (red is the most common). Fabric mills used
these colors to differentiate between fabrics.
Most selvage jeans today are dyed with synthetic indigo, but natural indigo dye is available
in smaller niche denim labels. Loop dying machines feed a rope of cotton yarn through vats of indigo dye and then back out. The
dye is allowed to oxidize before the next dip. Multiple dips create a deep dark indigo blue.
In response to increased demand for jeans in the 1950's, American denim manufacturers replaced the old shuttle style looms
with modern projectile looms. The new looms produced fabric faster and wider (60-inches or wider), yet lighter and less durable.
Synthetic dyeing techniques along with post-dye treatments were introduced to control shrink and twist.
Raw selvage is material that has not been washed once undergoing the dying process. It especially desirable because the
material will fade in the creases and folds of the jeans. This process is known as whiskering.[3]
See also
Fits and types of jeans
Denim clothing
Besides trousers, denim can also be made into:
Popular labels
Dry denim labels
Notes
External links
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