double-breasted

A six-on-two, grey double-breasted suit with jetted pockets.

In clothing, the term double-breasted refers to a coat or jacket with wide, overlapping front flaps and two, parallel columns of buttons or snaps; by contrast, a single-breasted coat has a narrow overlap and only one column of buttons. In most double-breasted coats, one column of buttons is decorative, while the other functional. The other buttons, placed on the outside edge of the coat breast, are either decorative (non-functional) or functional, allowing the overlap to fasten reversibly, right lapel over left lapel. To strengthen the fastening, a functional inner-button, called the jigger, is usually added to parallel-fasten the over-lapped layers together from the inside. ^[1]

A peaked-lapel coat.

Suit jackets and blazers typically have one to four rows of buttons (each row containing two buttons), one or two of the rows functional — the others are decorative. Each fastening method is identified using “number-on-number” terminology; the first number is the total number of front buttons, the second is the number of fastening buttons below the lapels (i.e. the second number also is the number of corresponding buttonholes). Six-on-four and six-on-two (as shown in the picture on the right) are the common button stances, but others exist. Stylistically, double-breasted suit jackets always have peaked lapels, and fasten left lapel over right lapel.

The original double-breasted jacket has six buttons, with two to close. Because shorter men may find that six buttons overwhelms their shorter torso, a four or six button configuration, in which only one fastens, may be a better option. The four-button, double-breasted jacket is often called the "Kent", after its supposed inventor - the Duke of Kent. ^[2]

Double-breasted suit jackets were popular from the mid 1930s until the mid 1950s, and again from the early 1980s to the late 1980s. Today, double-breasted jackets are not as popular and are considered very conservative. Therefore, it may be difficult to find a proper fitting double-breasted jacket.

Moreover, the overcoats - Pea coat and trench coat - are traditionally double-breasted; the single-breasted versions being civilian interpretations of a military fashion. Due to the double-breasted jacket's construction, it is usually not recommended to wear it unbuttoned, unlike the single-breasted jacket, which can be left open or unbuttoned.

Double-breasted Jacket Accessories

Either a necktie or bowtie may be worn with a double-breasted jacket. But men should avoid wearing the jacket without a neck accessory, due to the formality of the jacket. You may also choose to add a pocket handkerchief to add color and/or texture to the jacket.

You may determine the width of your necktie by the size of lapel on your jacket. Average lapel widths range between 3.375 inches to 4.25 inches, with lapels on double-breasted jackets leaning toward the latter. A 4-inch wide necktie is usually a safe choice.

See also

• Suit
• Single-breasted

References

1. ^ http://www.forbes.com/fyi/2008/0915/084.html
2. ^ http://atailoredsuit.com/mens-double-breasted-suit-jacket-(a).html