Dresden (etymologically from Old Sorbian Drežďany, meaning people of the riverside forest) is the
capital city of the German Federal Free State of Saxony. It is situated in a valley on the
River Elbe. The Dresden conurbation is part of the Saxon Triangle metropolitan area.
Dresden has a long history as the capital and royal residence for the Kings of
Saxony, who for centuries furnished the city with cultural and artistic splendor. The controversial bombing of Dresden in World War II, plus 40 years in the Soviet bloc state of East Germany, changed the face of the city
dramatically.
Since German reunification in 1990, Dresden has emerged as a cultural,
political, and economic centre in the eastern part of Germany.
Geography
-
Location
View over Dresden from the south-eastern slopes. Not rather a typical touristic view like from
Loschwitz or
Radebeul"
Dresden lies on both banks of the river Elbe, mostly in the Dresden Elbe Valley Basin, with the further reaches of the eastern
Ore Mountains to the south, the steep slope of the Lusatian granitic crust to the north, and the Elbe Sandstone
Mountains to the east at an altitude of about 113 meters. The highest point of Dresden is about 384 meters in
altitude.
With a pleasant location and a mild climate on the Elbe, as well as Baroque-style architecture and numerous world-renowned
museums and art collections, Dresden has been called "Elbflorenz" (Florence of the Elbe).
The incorporation of neighbouring rural communities over the past 60 years has made Dresden the fourth largest urban district
in Germany after Berlin, Hamburg, and Cologne.
Surroundings
The nearest German cities are Chemnitz (80 km to the southwest), Leipzig (100 km to the northwest) and Berlin (200 km to the north). The Czech
capital Prague is about 150 km to the south; the Polish city of Wrocław is about 200 km to the east.
Greater Dresden, which includes the neighbouring districts of Kamenz,
Meißen, Riesa-Großenhain, Sächsische Schweiz, Weißeritzkreis and part of the district
of Bautzen, has a population of around 1,250,000 .[2]
Nature
63% of Dresden is green areas.
Dresden claims to be one of the greenest cities in Europe, with 63% of the city being green areas and forests. The Dresdner
Heide to the north is a forest 50 km² in size. There are four nature reserves. The additional Special Conservation Areas
cover 18 km². The protected gardens, parkways, parks and old graveyards host 110 natural monuments in the city.[3] The Dresden Elbe
Valley is a world heritage site which is focused on the conservation of the cultural landscape in Dresden. One important
part of that landscape is the Elbe meadows which cross the city, 20 kilometers long.
Climate
Dresden has a cold-moderate to continental climate. The microclimate in the Elbe valley differs from that on the slopes and in
the higher areas. Klotzsche, at 227 metres above sea level, hosts the Dresden weather station. The weather in Klotzsche is 1-3°C
colder than in the inner city. In summer, temperatures in the city often remain at 20°C still at midnight.
The average temperature in January is −0.7°C and in July 18.1°C.[4] Summers are hotter in Dresden and winters are colder than the German average. The inner city
temperature is 10.2°C averaged over the year. The driest months are February and March, with precipitation of 40 mm. The wettest
months are July and August, with 60 mm per month.
Flood protection
Dresden is not often endangered by floods, but the "flood of the millennium" in 2002 caused unexpected all-time Elbe river highs,
much higher than in 1845, caused by extreme raining in the
Erzgebirge and
the
Giant Mountains. For example, a normally rather small river suddenly ran directly into
the main station of Dresden. Measures taken since mean that this is not likely to happen again.
Because of its location on the banks of the Elbe, into which some water sources from the Ore Mountains flow, flood protection
is important. Large areas are kept free of buildings to provide a floodplain. Two additional trenches about 50 metres wide have
been built to keep the inner city free of water from the Elbe river by dissipating the water downstream through the inner city's
gorge portion. Flood regulation systems like detention basins and water reservoirs are almost all outside the city area.
However, many locations and areas have to be defended by walls and sheet pilings. A number of districts become waterlocked if
the Elbe river is flooding some of its old bayous.
City structuring
Dresden is a spacious city. Its districts differ in their structure and appearance. Many parts still contain an old village
core, while some quarters are almost completely preserved as rural settings. Other characteristic kinds of urban areas are the
historic outskirts of the city, and the former suburbs with scattered housing. In the communist era, many apartment blocks were
built. The original parts of the city are almost all in the districts of Altstadt (Old town) and Neustadt (New town). Growing
outside the city walls, the historic outskirts were built in the 18th century. They were planned and constructed on the orders of
the Saxon monarchs, which is why the outskirts are often named after sovereigns. From the 19th century the city grew by
incorporating other districts. Dresden has been divided into ten districts called "Ortsamtsbereich" and nine former boroughs
("Ortschaften") which have been incorporated.
History
Although Dresden is a younger city of Slavic origin,[5] the area had been settled in the Neolithic era by Linear Pottery culture tribes ca. 7500
BC.[6] Dresden's founding and early growth is associated
with the eastward expansion of Germanic peoples,[5] mining in the nearby Ore Mountains, and the establishment of the Margraviate of Meissen. Dresden later evolved into the capital of Saxony.
Early history
The Fürstenzug — the Saxon sovereigns
Around the late 12th century, a Slavic settlement called Drežďany[7] ("alluvial forest dwellers" [citation needed]) had developed on the southern bank. Another settlement existed on the
northern bank, but its slavic name is unclear. It was known as Antiqua Dresdin verifiable since 1350 and later as
Altendresden.[7][8] Dietrich, Margrave of
Meissen, chose Dresden as his interim residence in 1206, as documented in a record calling the place "Civitas
Dresdene".
After 1270 Dresden became the capital of the margravate. It was restored to the Wettin dynasty in about 1319. From 1485 it
was the seat of the dukes of Saxony, and from 1547 the
electors as well.
Dresden in modern Europe
The Elector and ruler of Saxony Frederick Augustus I (1670-1733) was King August the Strong
of Poland in personal union. He gathered many of the best musicians [9], architects and painters from all over Europe to Dresden. His reign marked
the beginning of Dresden's emergence as a leading European city for technology and art. Dresden suffered heavy destruction in the
Seven Years' War (1756-1763).
Between 1806 and 1918 the city was the capital of the Kingdom of
Saxony (which was a part of the German Empire from 1871).
During the Napoleonic Wars the French
emperor made it a base of operations, winning there a famous battle on
August 27 1813. Dresden was a centre of the German Revolutions
in 1849 with the May Uprising, which cost human lives and damaged the historic
town of Dresden.
During the 19th century the city became a major centre of economy, including automobile production, food processing, banking
and the manufacture of medical equipment. The city's population quadrupled from 95,000 in 1849 to
396,000 in 1900 as a result of industrialization.
In the early 20th century Dresden was particularly well-known for its camera works and its cigarette factories. Between 1918
and 1934 Dresden was capital of the first Free State of Saxony. Dresden was a centre of European modern art until 1933.
Image of Dresden before its World War II destruction.
Dresden was both an important garrison as well as a centre of military industry during the Second World War. The
bombing of Dresden by the Royal Air Force and by the United States
Army Air Force between February 13 and February 15,
1945, remains one of the more controversial Allied actions of that war. The inner city of Dresden
was heavily destroyed during what proved to be the final weeks of war in Europe. While the city center was destroyed rather
completely larger villa areas outside downtown suffered few bombing impact.
Post-war period (communist rule)
After the Second World War, Dresden became a major industrial centre in communist
East Germany with a great deal of research infrastructure. Many important historic
buildings were rebuilt, although the communist leaders of the city chose to reconstruct large areas of the city in a "socialist
modern" style, partly for economic reasons but also in order to break away from the city's past as the royal capital of Saxony
and a stronghold of the German bourgeoisie. However, some of the bombed-out ruins of churches were razed by the Soviet
authorities in the 1960s instead of being repaired. From 1985 to 1990 the KGB stationed
Vladimir Putin, the future present President of Russia, in Dresden.
On 3 October 1989 (the so-called "battle of Dresden"), a
convoy of trains carrying East German refugees from Prague passed through Dresden on its way to
West Germany. Local activists and residents joined in the growing civil disobedience
movement spreading across East Germany by staging demonstrations and demanding the removal of the non-democratic government.
Post-reunification
Dresden has experienced dramatic changes since the reunification of Germany in the early 1990s. The city still bears many
wounds from the bombing raids of 1945, but it has undergone significant reconstruction in recent decades. The Dresden Frauenkirche, as symbol of the more comprehensive reconstructions was completed in 2005, a
year before Dresden's 800th birthday. The urban renewal process, which includes the reconstruction of the area around the
Neumarkt square on which the Frauenkirche is situated, will continue for many
decades, but public and government interest remains high, and there are numerous large projects underway — both historic
reconstructions and modern plans — that will continue the city's recent architectural renaissance.
Dresden remains a major cultural centre of historical memory, owing to the city's destruction in World War II. Every year on 13 February, the anniversary of the major
British fire-bombing raid that destroyed most of the city, tens of
thousands of demonstrators gather to commemorate the event. Since reunification, the ceremony has taken on a more neutral and
pacifist tone (after being used more politically in Cold War times). In recent years, however, far right
skinheads have tried to use the event for their own political ends. In 2005, Dresden was host to the largest
Neo-Nazi demonstration in the post-war history of Germany. Between five and eight thousand
Neo-Nazis took part, mourning what they call the "Allied bomb-holocaust".
In 2002 torrential rains caused the Elbe to flood 9 m above its
normal height, i.e. even higher than the old record height from 1845, damaging many landmarks (See
2002 European flood). The destruction from this "millennium flood" is no longer
visible, due to the speed of reconstruction.
The United Nations cultural organization UNESCO declared the Dresden Elbe Valley to be a World Heritage Site in 2004.[10] After being placed on the list of endangered World Heritage
Sites in 2006, the city is most likely going to lose the title in July 2007 due to the construction of the Waldschlößchenbrücke. UNESCO stated in 2006 that the bridge will destroy the cultural
landscape. The city council's legal moves to prevent the bridge being built failed.[11]
Military history
As the capital of a German principality and kingdom, Dresden has been a military centre for centuries. In connection with the
foundation of the German Empire in 1871, a large military facility called Albertstadt was built. It had a capacity of up to
20,000 military personnel at the beginning of the First World War. The garrison saw only limited use between 1918 and 1934 but
was then reactivated in preparation for the Second World War. It was not directly attacked in the bombings of Dresden but its usefulness was limited by attacks on the railway network
in the last month of the war.
The Albertstadt garrison became the headquarter of the Soviet 1st Guards Tank
Army in the Group of Soviet Forces in Germany after the war.
Apart from the German officer school of the army called Offizierschule des Heeres there have been
no more military units in Dresden since the army merger during German reunification and the withdrawal of Soviet forces in
1992.
Government and politics
-
Dresden is one of Germany's 16 political centres and capital of Saxony. It has institutions of democratic local
self-administration that are independent from the capital functions. Some local affairs of Dresden are observed nationwide.
Dresden hosted some international summits such as the Petersburg Dialogue between Russia and
Germany, the European Union's Minister of the Interior conference and the G8 labor ministers
conference in recent years.
Municipality and city council
City council
The city council defines the basic principles of the municipality by decrees and statutes. The council gives orders to the
burgomaster by voting for resolutions and thus has some executive power.
Currently there is no stable governing majority on Dresden city council.
Burgomasters and municipality
The Supreme Burgomaster is directly elected by the citizens for a term of seven years.
Executive functions are normally elected indirectly in Germany. However, the
Supreme Burgomaster shares numerous executive rights with the city council. He/She is the executive head of the municipality, and
also the ceremonial representative of the city. The main departments of the municipality are managed by seven burgomasters.
Local affairs
Architecture (like the "deconstructivist" fire escape on the baroque Landhaus) is a persistent subject of controversy in
Dresden
Local affairs in Dresden often centre around the urban development of the city and its spaces. Architecture and the design of
public places is a controversial subject. Discussions about the Waldschlößchenbrücke, a planned bridge across Elbe, received international attention because of its
position across the Dresden Elbe Valley World
Heritage Site. Opponents of the bridge are concerned that its construction would cause the loss of World Heritage site
status.[12] The city held a public referendum in 2005 on
whether to build the bridge.
In 2006 Dresden sold its publicly subsidized housing organization, WOBA Dresden GmbH, to the US-based private investment
company Fortress Investment Group. The city received 987.1 million euros and
paid off its remaining loans, making it the first large city in Germany to become debt-free. Opponents of the sale were concerned
about Dresden's loss of control over the subsidized housing market.[13]
The construction of a new soccer stadium has been in planning for several years but has not yet been realized. The start date
for upgrading the Rudolf-Harbig-Stadion into a single use soccer stadium with a
capacity of 32,770 is August 2007.
Sister cities
Along with its twin city Coventry, Dresden was one of the first cities to twin with a
foreign city. The two cities became twins after World War II in an act of reconciliation, as both had been nearly destroyed by
bombing.
Coventry, United Kingdom, since 1959
Saint Petersburg, Russia, since 1961
Wrocław, Poland, since 1963
Ostrava, Czech Republic, since 1971
Brazzaville, Congo, since 1975
Florence, Italy, since 1978
Hamburg, Germany, since 1987
Rotterdam, Netherlands, since 1988
Strasbourg, France, since 1990
Salzburg, Austria, since 1991
Columbus, USA, since 1992
Coat of arms
-
Blazon: Party per pale on a golden
shield showing a black lion to dexter and two black pales to sinister. The lion is looking to dexter and has a red tongue. The city's
colours are derivatively black and yellow (Or).
Meaning: The lion represents the Margraviate of Meissen and the pales
called the Landsberger Pfähle represent the Mark Landsberg, both ruling the city of
Dresden. Since 1309 both coats of arms in combination have been used. The pales were originally blue but converted to black to
differentiate from the two other important Saxon cities of Leipzig and Chemnitz,
which have very similar coats of arms.
Culture and architecture
Dresden is seeking to regain the kind of cultural importance it held from the 19th century until the 1920s, when it was a
centre of art, architecture and music. During that period, famous artists such as Ernst
Ludwig Kirchner, Otto Dix, Oskar Kokoschka,
Richard Strauss, Gottfried Semper and
Gret Palucca were active in the city. Dresden is also home to several important art
collections, world-famous musical ensembles, and significant buildings from various architectural periods, many of which were
rebuilt after the destruction of the Second World War.
Entertainment
The stage of the Saxon State Opera
The Saxon State Opera descended from the opera company of the former electors of Saxony in the Semperoper. Its musical ensemble is the Sächsische
Staatskapelle Dresden, founded in 1548. The Dresden State Theatre runs a number of smaller theatres. The Dresden State
Operetta is the only independent operetta in Germany. The Herkuleskeule
(Hercules club) is an important site in German-speaking political cabaret.
There are several choirs in Dresden, the best-known of which is the Kreuzchor (Choir of The Cross). It is a boy's choir
drawn from pupils of the Kreuzschule and was founded in the 13th century. The Dresdner Kapellknaben are not related
to the Staatskapelle but to the former Hofkapelle, the Catholic cathedral, since 1980. The Dresden Philharmonic Orchestra is the orchestra of the city of Dresden.
In summer 2006, as part of Dresden's 800th anniversary celebrations, the Pet Shop Boys
performed together with the Dresdner Sinfoniker (symphony orchestra) on the pedestrian
mall at Prager Strasse. The backdrop for the performance was a GDR-era concrete apartment block upon which a light show
was displayed.
Museums, presentations and collections
"Moor with emerald plate" in the Grünes Gewölbe which is the former royal
Schatzkammer or treasury
Dresden hosts the Staatlichen Kunstsammlungen Dresden (Dresden
State Art Collections) which is one of the world's most important museums and collections. The art collections consist of eleven
museums, of which the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister and the Grünes Gewölbe are the best known.
Other museums and collections owned by the Free State of Saxony in Dresden are:
- The Deutsche Hygiene-Museum, founded for mass education in hygiene, health, human biology and medicine
- The Landesmuseum für Vorgeschichte (State Museum of Prehistory)
- The Staatliche Naturhistorische Sammlungen Dresden (State Collection of Natural History)
- The Museum für Völkerkunde Dresden (Museum of Ethnology)
- The "Universitätssammlung Kunst + Technik" (Collection of Art and Technology of the Dresden University of Technology)
- Verkehrsmuseum Dresden (Transport Museum)
The Dresden City Museum is runned by the city of Dresden and focused on the city's history. The Military Historical Museum of
the Bundeswehr is in the former garrison in the Albertstadt.
Architecture
Although Dresden is often said to be a Baroque city, its architecture is influenced by more than one style. Other eras of
importance are the Renaissance and Historism as well as
the contemporary styles of Modernism and Postmodernism.
Royal household
Bridge at the
Kronentor (crowned gate) of the Zwinger Palace.
The royal buildings are among the most impressive buildings in Dresden. The Dresden
castle was once the home of the royal household. The wings of the building have been renewed, built upon and restored many
times. Due to this integration of styles, the castle is made up of elements of the Renaissance, Baroque and Classicist
styles.
The Zwinger Palace is across the road from the castle. It was built on the old stronghold of
the city and was converted to a centre for the royal art collections and a place to hold festivals. Its gate (surmounted by a
golden crown) by the moat is famous.
Other royal buildings and ensembles:
Sacral buildings
The Hofkirche was the church of the royal household. August the Strong, who
wanted to became King of Poland, was forced to convert to the Catholic religion,
as the Polish king had to be Catholic. At that time Dresden was strictly Protestant. August the Strong ordered the building of
the Hofkirche to establish a sign of religious importance in Dresden. The church is the cathedral "Sanctissimae Trinitatis" since
1980. The church hosts the crypt of the Wettin Dynasty. In contrast to the Roman
Catholic church, the Frauenkirche was built almost contemporaneously by the
citizens of Dresden. It is said to be the greatest cupola building in Central and
North Europe. Furthermore, the Frauenkirche is the largest church in Dresden, making
Dresden one of the few places where a cathedral is not the largest Christian sacred building. The city's historic church is the
Kreuzkirche.
There are also other churches in Dresden, for example a Russian Orthodox
Church in the Südvorstadt district.
Contemporary architecture
The locally controversial UFA-Palast
Dresden has been an important site for the development of contemporary architecture for centuries, and this trend has
continued into the 20th and 21st centuries.
Historicist buildings made their presence felt on the cityscape until the 1920s. One of
the youngest buildings of that era is the Hygiene Museum, which is designed in an impressively monumental style but employs plain
facades and simple structures. It is often attributed, wrongly, to the Bauhaus school.
Most of the present cityscape of Dresden was built up after 1945, a mix of reconstructed or repaired old buildings and new
buildings in the modern and postmodern styles. Important buildings erected between 1945 and 1990 are the Centrum-Warenhaus (a
large department store) representing the international style, the
Kulturpalast, and a lot of smaller and two bigger complexes of Plattenbau housing, while
there is also housing dating from the era of Stalinist architecture.
After 1990 and German reunification, new styles emerged. Important contemporary buildings are the New Synagogue (a
postmodern building with few windows), the Transparent Factory, the Saxon State Parliament and the New Terrace, the UFA-Kristallpalast cinema
by Coop Himmelb(l)au(one of the biggest buildings of Deconstructivism in Germany) and the Saxon State Library.
Daniel Libeskind and Norman Foster both modified existing buildings. Foster roofed the main
railway station with translucent teflon-coated synthetics. Libeskind changed the whole structure of the Military History Museum
by placing a wedge through the historistic arsenal building.
Other buildings
Other buildings include important bridges crossing the Elbe river, the Blaues Wunder bridge and the Augustusbrücke, which is on the site of the
oldest bridge in Dresden.
There are about 300 fountains and springs, many of them in parks or squares. The wells serve only a decorative function, since
there is a fresh water system in Dresden. Springs and fountains are also elements in contemporary cityspaces.
The most famous sculpture in Dresden is the golden equestrian sculpture of August the Strong called the "Goldener Reiter"
(Golden Cavalier) on the Neustädter Markt square. It shows August at the beginning of the Hauptstraße (Main street) on his way to
Warsaw, where he was King of Poland in personal union. Another sculpture is the memorial of Martin Luther in front of the Frauenkirche.
Dresden-Hellerau - Germany's first garden city
The Garden City of Hellerau, at that time a
suburb of Dresden, was founded in 1909 according to the principles postulated by the British reformer Ebenezer Howard. It was built by renowned architects and artists, amongst them Hermann Muthesius, Heinrich Tessenow, Theodor Fischer and Wilhelm Kreis. In 1911 Tessenow built the
Hellerau Festspielhaus (festival theatre) for the Swiss music educator
Émile Jaques-Dalcroze and Hellerau became a centre of modernism with international
standing until the outbreak of World War I.
In 1950 Hellerau was incorporated into the city of Dresden. Today the Hellerau reform architecture is recognised as exemplary.
In the 1990s the garden city of Hellerau became a conservation area.
Cinemas and cinematics
There are several small cinemas presenting cult films and low-budget or low-profile films chosen for their cultural worth.
Dresden also has a couple of multiplex cinemas, of which the Rundkino is the oldest.
Dresden has been a centre for the production of animated films and optical cinematic techniques. The Dresden Filmfest hosts a
competition for short films which is among the best-endowed competitions in Europe.
Sport
Football (soccer)
Dresden has a rich footballing history. In the early 20th century, the city was represented by Dresdner SC, who were one of Germany's most successful clubs, their best days coming during World War II, when they were twice German Champions, and
twice Cup winners. However, after the division of Germany, the club was considered too
bourgeois by the East German authorities, and it was dissolved in 1950. The mantle was taken up by a new, ideologically
acceptable club called Dynamo Dresden. Dynamo went on to become one of the East's most
successful clubs, winning eight DDR-Oberliga titles, and representing the DDR in
European competition. After reunification, Dynamo found themselves in the Bundesliga, and Dresdner SC were reformed, but both clubs have at times found life difficult, and
have struggled both financially and on the pitch. Nevertheless, both clubs remain popular, particularly Dynamo, and the worst of
their problems appear to be behind them.
Infrastructure
Transport
-
The longest trams in Dresden set a record in length
The Bundesautobahn 4 (European route
E40) crosses Dresden in the northwest from west to east. The Bundesautobahn 17
leaves the A4 in a south-eastern direction. In Dresden it begins to cross the Ore Mountains towards Prague. The Bundesautobahn 13 leaves from the three-point interchange "Dresden-Nord" and goes to Berlin. The A13
and the A17 are on the European route E55. Several Bundesstraße roads crossing or running through Dresden.
There are two main inter-city transit hubs in the railway network in Dresden: Dresden
Hauptbahnhof and Dresden-Neustadt railway station. The most
important railway lines run to Berlin, Prague, Leipzig and Chemnitz. A commuter train system (Dresden S-Bahn) operates on three lines alongside the long-distance routes.
Dresden Airport is the international airport of Dresden, located at the north-western
outskirts of the town. Its infrastructure has been improved with new terminals and a motorway access route.
Dresden has a large tramway network operated by the Dresden Transport Authority. Because the
geological bedrock does not allow the building of underground railways, the tramway is an important form of public transport. The
Transport Authority operates twelve lines on a 200 km network.[14] Many of the new low-floor vehicles are up to 45 metres long and produced by Bombardier Transportation in Bautzen. While many of the
system's lines are on reserved track (often sown with grass to avoid noise), some tracks still run on the streets, especially in
the inner city.
The CarGoTram is a tram that supplies Volkswagen's Transparent Factory, crossing the city. The transparent factory is located not far from the city
centre next to the city's largest park.[15]
Public utilities
The Sächsische Staatskanzlei (
Saxon State Office) is the institution assisting the Minister-President in a similar way to
the
German Chancellery
Dresden is the capital of a German Land (federal state). It is home to the
Saxon state parliament and the ministries of the Saxon Government. The controlling Constitutional Court of Saxony is in Leipzig.
The highest Saxon court in civil and criminal law, the Higher Regional Court of Saxony, has its home in Dresden.
Most of the Saxon state authorities are located in Dresden. Dresden is home to the Regional Commission of Dresden, which is a
controlling authority for the Saxon Government. It has jurisdiction over eight rural districts, two urban
districts and the city of Dresden.
Like many cities in Germany, Dresden is also home to a local court, has a trade corporation and a Chamber of Industry and
Trade and many subsidiaries of federal agencies (such as the Federal Labour Office or the Federal Agency for Technical Relief). It also hosts some subdepartments of the German Customs and
the eastern Federal Waterways Directorate.
Dresden is also home to a military subdistrict command but no longer has large military units as it did in the past. Dresden
is the traditional location for army officer schooling in Germany, today carried out in the Offizierschule des Heeres.